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Patch panel question
I was looking at the the fender patch panel I got from NPD and I noticed that the bottom was a little different. I'm a total beginner at body panels so this makes me a bit nervous. The areas I circled in the pic are recessed the patch panel isn't. They obviously need to be there as that is where the bottom of the fender bolts to the body. I'm not sure how to address this issue. Any suggestions?
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The lack of response here isn't comforting.
Is it a stupid question? If so let me have it. I can take it. Is it just as simple as using a hammer and dolly? |
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if that is solid enough, cut it off, and cut off that section of the repair panal, flange both peices and weld it up. I don't know of any easy way to make that accuratly.
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from the factory the panel are 1st stamped/flanged then the holes cut. What I've done on those r/r panels like that is made a soft wooden buck, knelled the metal with a neutral flame and metal worked in the flange using my rubber mallets and some hammer and dolly work with the buck then went back with a body saw and cut out the holes. That is if your going to do it right. Other option is to cut out what's left of that panel and weld it in. The panel is kinda nasty in the picture, plus you'll have fun doing it the right way because it will be a challenge for you. tip ( start on a scrap peice to make sure you made your buck right. Once it's done right, then beat away on your patch
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Quote:
Do you mean a reverse pattern of the recessed area with a void for the recess. Then heat the metal and hammer the metal against the void in the wood. I apologize for my ignorance. I do have a little experience working sheet metal but not much and it was a long time ago. |
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kencam,
If I am reading your Post correctly, you are concerned about the recesses that appear to be for bolting the Panel on, correct? If that is the case, I would use some Chipboard (or Construction Paper) and make a template from the old Part and transfer them to the new Part (using a stamped "character" line to have a reference point), then use either a 3" cutoff wheel/grinder or power hacksaw (body saw) and cut the recesses out, then smooth them with a Roloc Disc (36 or 50 Grit)-patience is the key here- **edit**I think I see your problem now (please disregard the previous Post)-I think your choices are the Buck method or if you have access to a regular Press make a "die" and press them in-really though, it does look like ithe Metal may be doubled up in the forward bolt location-is the Panel just surface Rust on the other side? Sorry for the mix-up- Last edited by 35WINDOW; 06-02-2008 at 02:54 PM. |
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I guess I'll make a form and try to recess those areas as per duallybuster (if I understand him correctly) What's the worst thing that could happen? The patch panels are cheap it won't kill me to ruin one or two. |
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I've had some luck with making a pair of dies and pressing the detail in. The larger the span, the more force is needed, as well as a slight increase in deformaties. Small recesses can be done with simple dies used with a monster bench vice like the one I have.
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yep, that's what I mean. My pop is an old carpenter where Im a bodyman, so he's alway makes my bucks for me. I've never really been all that intrested in wood so I've never really learned how to make them my self, but I've seen him in the shop with a router and some other tools and in a hour or so I've got what I need.
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it's called a "hammer form" .
using HARDWOOD,make a reverse shape you can hammer a peice of sheet metal onto in the shape you want. Before you start cutting anything ,go to this site and buy this book.you'll learn more than I can express here. Metal shaping book by Fay Butler But in the case of that panel you are asking a lot to be able to stretch the steel . I would make a copy of the indentation with another piece of steel first. Get the copy perfect!! The make a Template of the panel BEFORE you cut the new one! make your template so it's the exact contour of the panel in at four directions and mark on the old panel where you got your template reference marks from. I make my templates from galvanized sheet. Cheap thin stuff is the best. mark on the new panel where your reference marks are in relation to the old the panel. I see in the journal it's a family car,so make the templates perfect because the other side will be the same i guess,and you want to do a good job by starting out as you mean to go on Once you have the indented piece made and it's perfect,remove the metal from the new panel and tack the new piece in. It will take a while,But slowly makes the job perfect,haste makes for a crap job and lots of bondo. |
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I checked out Fay's site and watch all his videos. The guy is definitely a master at his craft. I admire people like that. I tend to be more of a jack of all trades. I'm good at lots of things but not spectacular at any. I'd like to thank everyone who posted a reply. I feel much more confident than I did before. I'll post pics of my work in my journal. I'm hoping to start on the body work in a couple of weeks. I need to get the fenders done before I pull the front frame off. Between work and my 2 year old there isn't enough time in the day. |
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