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Old 06-01-2013, 11:02 AM
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Patch rivet side holes.

Sometime during the 46 years that my El Camino has been around someone thought it would be a good idea to install one of those snap on bed covers. Needless to say that bed cover isn't there anymore and the snaps below the rear window have been removed.

What is the best / cost effective way of patching these holes without the use of a welder?

Thank you.
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Old 06-01-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Chucky5150 View Post
What is the best / cost effective way of patching these holes without the use of a welder?

Thank you.
There isn't one. Weld them up.
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Old 06-01-2013, 02:20 PM
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Joe is right. If you do anything other than weld them up, eventually you are just going to end up back to where you are. If you really don't want to weld them, consider installing another cover, and re-use the same holes.
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Old 06-01-2013, 03:37 PM
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if you do not have a welder get some short stainless steel screws that have flat tops , a little silicone on the tip , grind them, skin with bondo. Now that is alot of work huh! No welder spend alittle cash and have a shop do it . But that cash you spend just might be that new welder in the shop!! Good luck!
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:04 AM
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Whack them.

In the old days, the method was to remove the paint around the hole, use a center punch and smack it so it looked like a bullet hole and bondo over it. , that would last 5 or 6 years. Make a new friend , some one that has a welder. trade work, ..if you can hold a back up copper on the inside , less chance of burn thru's , anothe trick is to polish a nail with a wire wheel , poke it thru the hole from the inside and hold it with vice grips while you weld, it fills the hole and less burn thru's,,/
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by timothale View Post
In the old days, the method was to remove the paint around the hole, use a center punch and smack it so it looked like a bullet hole and bondo over it. , that would last 5 or 6 years. Make a new friend , some one that has a welder. trade work, ..if you can hold a back up copper on the inside , less chance of burn thru's , anothe trick is to polish a nail with a wire wheel , poke it thru the hole from the inside and hold it with vice grips while you weld, it fills the hole and less burn thru's,,/

Depending on where these holes are, if they are somewhere that gets moisture from the back side, they will fail in what ever, 1-5-8 years what ever, they WILL fail. But if there is no moisture from the back, they will out last all of us. We will be dead in our graves and those holes will still be gone buried under the filler for the next owners son to drive around with a smile on his face.

HOWEVER, if you are messing with cars as I guess you are Chucky, invest in a quality little MIG welder now to weld them up and you will never regret it! Get yourself a little Miller 135 with Gas now, you will never loose a dime being able to sell it for what you paid for it (or close) any time you want, or keep it for ever and pull it out to repair or build something every once in a while and you will be SOOOOO glad you have it.

Welding up those little holes is a wham bam thank you very much easy project. And you will be doing them lickity split in minutes after you fire up that welder, they are super easy to use.

As an example check out this thread. Example of a student of mine welding.

Brian
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:56 AM
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I agree with everyone else, just buy a quality welder, nothing to lose, too damn handy to have.

"In the old days, the method was to remove the paint around the hole, use a center punch and smack it so it looked like a bullet hole and bondo over it."

Actually we would solder them shut and lead over them. Cleaned and soldered it is waterproof so you can finish them off however you feel like, just clean and neutralize the flux first. A 1500 watt solder gun works fine and handy near glass.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:35 AM
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Never really thought of the solder deal..good idea you have there..

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Old 06-02-2013, 12:40 PM
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body solder

Solder for doing body work is different than old plumbing 5050, lead free, electrical rosin solders. the formula is different. Body solder has a plastic temperature range where you can work and form it . Some of the other solders go from solid to dripping liquid very quickly. With solder you still need to indent around the hole or vibration can make it fall out.
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Old 06-02-2013, 01:32 PM
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Thanks guys. I do have plans on getting a good mig welder and doing it right. It just isn't in the cards right now. I do have body work that needs to be done. There is a rivet I can see that has been painted over above the rear wheel. At the very least I'll get these holes sealed up so rain water can't get inside.


Thank you.
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:21 PM
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The solder you guys are thinking about is acid core solder. When I was a kid that's how I was taught to fill these types of holes. It works, but if at all possible welding them up is the best way to go.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:03 AM
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You change the percentage of tin and lead in solder to change the solders characterisers.
63 % tin, 37 % lead is the "eutectic" alloy of solder, that melts at the lowest temperature, and it goes from solid to liquid at that temperature. Plumbing solder is 50/50melts at a higher temperature, and has a slightly "mushy" stage. I thing body solder adds more lead and has a wider temperature range for the "mushy" stage.

The flux type does not change this. It is just most electronic work is done with rosin core solder, and coincidentally, most electronic soldering uses the lowest temperature, to avoid damaging heat sensitive components.
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