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Old 08-03-2014, 09:16 PM
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Patina Preservation

Need a cheap and easy way to preserve the patina and prevent MORE rust on my Rat.

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Old 08-03-2014, 09:31 PM
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clear coat
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:58 PM
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I am working on a heavy duty patina job right now.

I would use metal prep first to neutralize the rust, and help adhesion.

It will change the color to a little more of a grayish shade. If you want to get back to a more brownish shade you can add some root beer candy concentrate to the clear. Try a small sample spot first so it isn't TOO brown.

Make sure you use a totally flat clear. If you use a shiny clear it will ruin the "old" look! I've seen people do that, and it is just plain stupid.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:41 AM
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Good find for the owner. Nice work on an excellent project for the process, that truck will last another 75 years in Tucson.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:51 AM
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Just leave it alone, here's 1 that was last painted in 1959
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da34guy View Post
Just leave it alone, here's 1 that was last painted in 1959
Amen! I'm so tired of seeing old patina covered in clear coat, whether it's shiny or satin clear. Best to go over the car and clean it well. Then buff out what's left of the finish, and leave it alone.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:45 AM
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clear coated patina is as lame fake patina . if you like the look leave it be.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:37 PM
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Rusty

All, I hear what you are saying and somewhat agree, however, if you look at my gallery you will see that there is zero paint to preserve. I have 85yrs of nothing but rust and I want to stop it and preserve the patina look. I bought this car from a guy in Wyoming and now it is in Beaufort, SC. Huge difference in humidity and here right next to the ocean, acidity in the air. Soooooo, this is why I am trying to save it.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:42 PM
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usmczmann, another option is to use some "Gibbs Brand" on it, and do so on a regular basis. http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/

"Leaving it alone" in Tucson Arizona, or any other arid climate, sounds logical.

In South Carolina... not very desirable long term results.

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Old 08-04-2014, 06:30 PM
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That is why I recommended the metal prep.

First it will change the rust (iron oxide) into a non-changing material called Iron phosphate. Then the flat clear will seal it up from the things that will start the rusting again.

Again... the drawback is that it changes the color slightly to a more grayish shade. That is why I suggested the candy rootbeer concentrate added to the first clear coat. Be sure to do a test panel to make sure you like the color.

On the '40 pickup I posted, most of what you see is actually paint... but we did clear some rusted pieces just for fun, to see if people can tell the difference.
:-)

SPI makes a nice matte clear (satin texture), but they also offer two ways to make it more flat. By decreasing the catalyst-reducer amount by half... and also by adding more flattener (20% by volume).

Again, a test panel will let you see what it will look like before the car is already painted! The forty pickup has the extra flatterner, but the normal cat/reducer ratio. We thought it would give us a tougher finish, with only slightly more gloss.

Good luck.
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