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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
The plumbing is simple and you won't need the hose from the air cleaner to the valve cover for the filtered air going into the engine, just use the breather cap you already have on the valve cover if it is a filter type-if not replace it with one that is. As for the PCV plumbing you just need a rubber grommet for it to fit in for the other valve cover, these can be found in various size combos at Advance, Auto Zone, Oreilly's, etc on the rack they have for specialized parts like door handles and other odd parts. Then all you need to do is to install the PCV valve and grommet into the valve cover and run a vacuum hose to a manifold vacuum source with 1/4" or larger vacuum hose, find a manifold vacuum port that the line fits and you will have it.
So how about something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...T#ht_918wt_939

With the one side routed to the vacuum line at the base of the carb?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 11:38 AM
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Sure that would work just fine and it looks good too, you could save a few bucks by picking up a PCV valve, a foot or so of hose and a grommet at the auto parts but that outfit there don't cost much anyway and is very simple to install.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 08:00 PM
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Let's Not Forget The Baffle In The Valve Cover

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Sure that would work just fine and it looks good too, you could save a few bucks by picking up a PCV valve, a foot or so of hose and a grommet at the auto parts but that outfit there don't cost much anyway and is very simple to install.
Let's not forget that there needs to be a baffle in the valve cover under the PCV valve as well as under the fill cap vent . Best bet would be a set of aftermarket valve covers . If you just go with chromed stamped steel covers they are very reasonably priced .
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Let's not forget that there needs to be a baffle in the valve cover under the PCV valve as well as under the fill cap vent . Best bet would be a set of aftermarket valve covers . If you just go with chromed stamped steel covers they are very reasonably priced .
Mine do have baffles.

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Old 12-21-2010, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat
Mine do have baffles.

Well you are all set then . Just do as oldred said.
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Let's not forget that there needs to be a baffle in the valve cover under the PCV valve as well as under the fill cap vent .


Of course you are right, I just assumed his valve covers would have them already since about all factory ones do and most after market do also. Still that was a good point because had he used a cover without a baffle it would have caused some real problems and more than just a little smoke!
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Of course you are right, I just assumed his valve covers would have them already since about all factory ones do and most after market do also. Still that was a good point because had he used a cover without a baffle it would have caused some real problems and more than just a little smoke!
I remember we had a guy on here a while ago who was just going to cut a hole in a valve cover and install a grommet and a PCV valve . I didn't want to see that happen . As I recall the OEM valve covers on my '62 Impala SS 327 did not have any holes in them, much less baffles.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
I remember we had a guy on here a while ago who was just going to cut a hole in a valve cover and install a grommet and a PCV valve . I didn't want to see that happen . As I recall the OEM valve covers on my '62 Impala SS 327 did not have any holes in them, much less baffles.
Basically the baffles block the oil from blowing out right? So eventually you would run out of oil.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:56 PM
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PCV valves are good. They do not cause any power loss, on a street engine.
They suck the combustion byproducts out of your engine, and burn them. That means it is possible to get a slight but minor gas mileage increase from running one.
These byproducts if not removed, will make your oil get diluted with unburned gasoline, and water sooner. Without a PCV valve, you will have to change your oil more often, or it will be dirtier when you do.
They make the engine crankcase operate at a slight vacuum, and this reduces the tendency for oil to leak out.
And finally, the blowby gasses formed by the engine are really pretty bad, as far as polluting the air goes.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:51 PM
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Wow guys, thanks for all the input! I am going to stay with my pcv valve set up. My first post shows the current set up, which has a pcv valve in the aluminum valve cover and the hose running to a manifold vacuum source from the carb. I guess it shows, "Sometimes your hotrod buddies don't always know what they are talking about. "
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:56 PM
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Glad we could help . BTW .Silicone heater hoses

I just looked back at your original post and thought you might want to know that there are silicone heater hoses available that are much more heat and oil resistant. Also they are a nice blue in keeping with the color theme. LOL We had gone exclusively to the silicone heater hose on the mine equipment due to the exposure to heat and oil . It is more expensive but a lot cheaper than an engine .
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madmax305
My first post shows the current set up, which has a pcv valve in the aluminum valve cover and the hose running to a manifold vacuum source from the carb. I guess it shows, "Sometimes your hotrod buddies don't always know what they are talking about. "

If one of your buddies told you that an alternative, as you indicated earlier, was just to use a breather cap on the valve cover or filler tube then he certainly can not be trusted. That would be just about as bad as no ventilation at all! Well maybe not that bad but for sure the oil would become very dirty and contaminated in short order with just that cap and no vent tube, the vent tube was by far more important than the breather cap as far as venting the crankcase and without it very little venting would occur other than to prevent pressure from building up. In fact just using the breather cap would allow slight pressure to build up possibly causing oil leaks and almost certainly causing an oily mess under the hood.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:24 PM
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Older Is Better ? ?

It never ceases to amaze me the number of people who think that the technology of the 60's is preferable to modern engine technology . I actually know a guy who took a perfectly good 350 out of his new pickup in the early 80's to replace it with a stock 327 that he had built . Check the performance numbers on the modern engine compared to the old muscle cars that we thought were so "hot" . GM and others don't spend millions annually on engineering to produce lower performance and lower reliability . I remember my '75 Nova SS had only a 12 mo 12,000 mile warranty . Now GM has 60 mo. 100,000 mi. That alone has to tell you something . So the short and sweet is , stick with the latest technology despite what your "hot rod" buddies try to tell you .
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Old 12-22-2010, 05:01 PM
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Back in the 60's just getting 100,000 miles on an engine without some major work would give you bragging rights on the thing but look at them now, 100,000 is just a good break-in!
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:38 PM
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don't use silicone hose for vacuum line.. it isn't strong enough, and will collapse under the vacuum.

I made that mistake once.. replaced all my vac. lines with this cool silicone hose kit from the parts store.. quickly found out I had no power brakes because the hose collapsed under the vacuum..

only thing I use that silicone hose for now is my washer fluid..
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