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Old 04-04-2013, 01:53 AM
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Peeling clear where there shouldnt be any

On one of my cars, I recently noticed clear coat peeling on the roof, not abnormal, aside from teh fact that that car is supposed to have single stage paint from the factory. the original owner told me he's had a body shop take care of some hail damage on the roof at one time and it looks like they didnt read the paint code. Anyway, now, Ive got a car with mixed paints on it.
Question here is, can I get away with just sanding out the clear down to the base and then shooting over that with the proper single stage to match the car properly, or do I need to go down further to avoid it coming up? ( Ive been watching that roof yellow slightly for a while in the heat around here and been wondering why... now I know )
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:00 AM
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The more you remove, the better.
I would at least sand off the clear and the base.
The base may be the problem why the clear is lifting.
Putting basecoat/clearcoat over single stage is quite alright,
it's done all the time, but it has to be done properly of course.
Something wasn't done right here.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:15 AM
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I do these all the time ...before you start sanding try scraping the clear of with a razor scraper,being careful not to put scratches in itfor better results rub the scraper on glass before you start scrapingthis hones down the ruff edges on the blade ,like a leather strap at the barber shop...
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:17 AM
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Where you sand through and where the clear is peeling, you will need to prime. You can also try blowing more off with high psi air.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:36 AM
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"for better results rub the scraper on glass before you start scraping this hones down the ruff edges on the blade ,like a leather strap at the barber shop... "

also blunt the corners of the blade on some sandpaper, they tend to dig-in if you don't.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:14 AM
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"jcclark", is right, the more you take off the better...however, the previous owner mentioned to you that the body shop that applied the base clear paint on the roof also repaired hail damage. This would mean that if you take the paint completely off of the roof your going to run into body filler. If you don't want to re do the body work from the hail damage, the best thing to do would be to take off the clear and the base coat. That would take the paint down to the primer that the body shop that repaired the hail damage applied. When you get it down to that point you could block sand the existing primer and paint right over top.

Now, the trick is to get the base clear paint off without disturbing or scratching the existing primer. "33Willys77" mentioned to try blowing the clear off with an air blower, this is good advice and probably would be the first step I would do in removing the peeling clear. "oldbodyman" and "Deadbodyman" have given you good advice as well, use a piece of glass to dull down the razor blade a bit and get rid of the sharp corners by using sand paper or a bench grinder if you have one. Even with doing this to the razor blade you will still need to be careful...the blade is still sharp and must be held parallel to the surface of the paint that you are trying to remove or you can still gouge or put deep scratches into the existing substrate.

Once you have as much of the clear removed as you can with both a blower and a razor blade (I doubt that you will get all of it off), you will need to sand whatever is left on the roof off. I would recommend either 320 grit or 400 grit sand paper on a block (you could use a DA "Dual Action sander" but I don't know if you have one) to remove this existing clear. Once you have the existing clear removed you need to check the roof to see if you have any gouges or scratches from the use of the razor blade. Gouges you may need to fill with a 2 part polyester putty, scratches, you should try and block them out, if they don't block out, apply the same 2 part polyester putty into the deep scratch...sand the polyester putty smooth with your block (you can start with say a 180 to 220 grit on a block and finish sanding with 320 grit on a block...I like to finish my work real fine...it takes little extra time and less chance of anything sinking).

After your spots where you applied putty on the roof are sanded, you can spot prime these areas, I would recommend a 2 part catalyzed primer (a sandable Epoxy primer would be ideal) or as more commonly referred to as a 2K primer. Allow the primer to cure and block sand the primer and whatever is left of the old base coat with 320 or 400 grit paper. Make sure you hand sand the corners and edges so the fresh paint your going to apply will adhere and not peel like the old clear coat did. When this is completed, mask up the car for paint.

You may or may not want to seal the roof...sealer would help fill or cover up any sins that you may have overlooked in the prepping process...but if your confident in your prepping your ready for paint.

I hope this helps, any questions , feel free to ask.

Ray
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:13 PM
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If you were a pro you could go right from sanding to paint but I'd suggest a sandable sealer (epoxy) with a guide coat because there might be a few scratches you miss ,a guide coat will show every one when you do the final finish sand before paint...
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:19 PM
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Good point Mike, I wasn't sure how much experience the OP had or didn't have, I should have assumed that the OP didn't have a great deal of experience...so yes, a sandable Epoxy that acts as a sealer and guide coating as well is advice that should be well taken.

Ray
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