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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 12:00 AM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar
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Pennzoils old time formulation had a high level of parrafins which would congeal after high mileage on engine surfaces, this is from the turn of the century when designing oils for lubrication was hardly a science. I doubt a rated oil will cause you any problems if changed regularly, not quite a wives tale but in this day and age it is approaching that level along with the battery on concrete BS.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 12:04 AM
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4 Jaw.... are you also a rotary owner?
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:33 PM
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oils

OK, let's expand to synthetics. What's the experience of users of synthetics vs standard oil. What about using synthetics on older cars, say from the 50s or 60s. Is it necessary to flush the engine with anything when switching from standard oil to synthetics?
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:46 PM
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I'd like to add to S10Blazer's post.

If you go to synthetic, does it hurt if you go back to non-synthetic?

My cousin was told by a lube shop that if you go to synthetic, you have to stay with it, else it will harm the engine.

Another thing, do heavier weights (ie 20-50) make an engine last longer that lighter weights (10-30 or 5-30).

Personally, I use Mobile One synthetic in my Bird and 4Runner and Castrol GTX (10-30) in my Blazer.
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:51 PM
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oils

A little unrelated but possiblty a tip off - I do know that if you swith either way - standard vs synthetic- in BRAKE FLUID - you better clean it out very very well. I don't know if that is because of fluid pressures being affected by the opposite material but it makes me wonder about engine oil changes.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 02:22 PM
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sludging Pennzoil

I'm not an expert, but during my years of operating a Texacp gas station (remember them?) I tore apart a number of engines and each time I would ask the customer which oil they used, how frequent the oil changes and the type of driving. And here's some of the info I found:

It appears that both Pennzoil and Quakerstate had the higher level of sludge build up on vehicles which drove short distances or a lot of stop and go. However, on engines which performed many highway runs, the engines were cleaner but did have a fair amount of tarnish buildup.
And engines which used Valvoline, Castrol, or Kendall appeared cleaner, and interestingly, had more miles.
Now, an old timer once told me that the reason for this was because Pennzoil and Quakerstate come from the same region and both have a higher level of sulfur content. Is this true? Sounds good.

I hope this helps, somewhat.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 03:03 PM
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Years ago when I took organic chemistry, we learned there was a definite advantage to using the Pennsylvania oils because they had a higher resistance to breakdown under heat. With the advantages of modern additives, this may no longer be the case.

Pennsylvania still has plenty of oil,it's just not as cheap to produce it.

I like Pennzoil. 15 years ago, when I bought my wife a Subaru wagon, the dealer recommended Pennzoil. I change my oil every 3-3500 miles and so far have 217,000 miles on this engine which still runs great.

I think the answer to the discussion here is MAINTENANCE.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 03:50 PM
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Most synthetic oils have a high detergent content and switching to synthetics on older high mileage engines may create leaks. Sometimes sludge is the only thing keeping the oil from seeping past deteriorated seals.

Synthetics should be good at preventing or even removing sludge buildup.
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:16 PM
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For new engines, I typically use Valvoline 10-40 through the break-in period, then switch over to a Valvoline synthetic. On older engines I use dino oil and don't waste the money on syns.
It's true, though, that sometimes the sludge is the only thing holding things together. I've seen this occur more than once - better leave well enough alone.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 04:21 PM
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Sludge

Back years ago, early and mid-sixties we were always told Quaker State caused sludge. Ran nothing else in my 54 Ford. No problems as long as that was all you ran. They said it was because it was parrifin based. Don't know but that's the rumor. I always swore by QS cause that what the engine used since new.
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:31 PM
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My father and grandfather both swore by Pennzoil and Quakerstate. In fact, my grandfathers 1960 Starliner had over 200K on it. And, they both said once you start one brand of oil stick with it.
Now years later here's my take on oil:
Use a name brand (they all pretty good these days)
Change it frequently - even be anal about it
Always, always change the filter (use the best filter, too)
And drive, drive, drive!
The more the engine spins at higher (typically above idle) RPM, the higher the temperature thus the lower moisture accumulation in the engine and other volatile buildup.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 04:32 PM
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Thumbs up Pennzoil/Castrol

I have worked on engines with Pennzoil, Castrol and Valvoline.

The first two are great.

Stay away from the latter.

Look at a bottle thats been sitting around for a while, pour the oil out and see which one is left with additive drop out in the bottom.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 04:39 PM
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oil weight

In response to 70birds question about the weight of oil and if it makes an engine last longer: no really.

The weight of the oil becomes more important when the engine is under great loads, such as racing or heavy towing.
The fact is, Honda motors recommends 5W-30 for their cars and we all know how long those engines last.
Also, I ride Japanese sport motorcycles and all I use is 10W-40 synthetic oils and my bikes have exceeded 125K miles (even on the air cooled motors).

Remember, synthetics are alittle more slippery, thus reducing friction which reduces heat
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 05:28 PM
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Sludge is really a thing of the past. Was a real problem with non-detergent oils, engines w/o oil filters (SBC didn't have one in the 50s! Of course Chrysler hemis did but that's another story) and bad maintenance. Use any modern detergent oil and change it religiously and your engine will outlast your interest in it.

Change your oil every 3000 miles regardless of what your owner's manual or the oil can says.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-11-2004, 05:33 PM
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As all users have stated above, I've heard all the same stories, as well.

personal knowledge... from 1965 to 1998 my family operated a small business that had a small fleet of pest control service vehicles. We had small cars up to and including 250-series pickups. We did all the regular maintenance ourselves (oil changes at 3000 - 3500 miles). We used Pennzoil exclusively and had great performance in doing so.

In my teenage years, I wanted to do a full motor rebuild and pulled down a small block Chevy motor that had been in one of the service vehicles taken out of service due to being involved in a wreck (about 250K miles). The motor looked like it was new inside - totally unbelievable - no sludge. I was a believer.

Several times throughout my life, when I asked automotive mechanics the same sludge question, I was usually told "always use the same oil at regular intervals and you will not have oil-related problems". It must be true.

Rember... Share your old, cool, fast or unique car with someone else. Especially young people. We need to keep the love of cars ALIVE !

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