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Old 09-26-2005, 05:36 PM
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Perfect paint question, Barry?

In the perfect paint job article http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

It says to use the slowest reducer you can in your basecoat? Why? I always thought that the longer the base was wet,the more it would penetrate, causing sand scratch swells and other possible problems.Also figured slower reducer is going to take longer to come up out of the final paint job,thus causing dieback. I'm getting ready to spray some parts on my 65 Mustang project. I have a pretty hot reducer and i am going to follow the the aricle.I was just wondering the reasoning behind it. So far i have dp90lf on bare metal,filler work,dp90lf again,followed by feather-fill g2 blocked with 180 followed by 2k urethane primer sanded with 600.I am spraying RM Diamont base using UR 70 reducer following that with Diamont 76nr turbo clear. THANKS.
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Old 09-26-2005, 05:52 PM
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you might want to read this recent post shoddy.
Couple more paint questions
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Old 09-26-2005, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoddy_f-body
In the perfect paint job article http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

It says to use the slowest reducer you can in your base-coat? Why? I always thought that the longer the base was wet,the more it would penetrate, causing sand scratch swells and other possible problems.
****************************************
Yes and no, what causes swelling and lifting is when the next coat flashes to soon and traps the solvents. If the next coat flashes to soon it will take a lot longer for the solvents to escape and that is when you will see mapping, swelling, lifting. bk
***********************************************

Also figured slower reducer is going to take longer to come up out of the final paint job,thus causing dieback.
*************************************************
This is a very popular conclusion but wrong.
Best way for me to explain it without writing a book is this way.
Its 85 degrees and we take the same base and you use a fast reducer and I use a slow. We paint at the same time, yes your base will dry to touch faster than mine will but the real test as to if the solvents are gone is who can wetsand first with out balling up the sand paper. I will beat you by 15-30 minutes because mine stayed open long than yours and let the tail solvents out, yours skimmed and slowed the solvent from coming out.
bk
*******************************************

I'm getting ready to spray some parts on my 65 Mustang project. I have a pretty hot reducer and i am going to follow the the article.I was just wondering the reasoning behind it. So far i have dp90lf on bare metal,filler work,dp90lf again,followed by feather-fill g2 blocked with 180 followed by 2k urethane primer sanded with 600.I am spraying RM Diamont base using UR 70 reducer following that with Diamont 76nr turbo clear. THANKS.
******************************************
Remember this article is for the extreme paint job as it says, so there is a lot of overkill in the article. Also remember your BR reducers run about 1 grade hotter than the rest of the paint companies reducers so 60 or 70 is great.
bk

Only thing I see that bothers me if your trying to do a custom job is the 76 clear. Get rid of it, trade it in, throw it away but go back to store and get their best allover clear (88) or replacement or get the MS or replacement in Glaseruit (also BASF) No 76 or no Limco.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:05 PM
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Well i have a gallon of DC 92 i can use. I was kinda on the fence with the 76.Bought it mainly for jambing but then i thought i may use it for the whole job since i decided to paint it in peices. I just thought the dc92 may take to long to dry and i was concerned about bugs/dirt collecting since i'm not using a 'real' booth.The 76 is tack free a lot quicker than the dc92.You think the 76 will not hold a good shine? Or do you just think it will dry to quick.

Last edited by shoddy_f-body; 09-26-2005 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:47 AM
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As a cut in clear would be great.
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