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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:27 PM
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I trust you clearanced the stock heads guide boss/seal to retainer clearance at full lift.
and installed suitable high performance valve springs etc.
valve spring stack and retainer seal guide boss clearance has to be verifyed with this cam.
Or bent pushrods or worse will be the result. Stock rockers must be clearanced too (slot length)

this is not a "bolt in cam" and a poor choice for a near stock motor.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:29 PM
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You can build a high perf 305 around this camshaft but there are a few critical parts of
the combo-puzzle missing.

Needs a 4 speed 5 speed manual trans and 4.56+++ gears.
a better intake, 750 holley, headers etc Filly ported race moded heads 1.94 valves.
A true 10.5:1 cr. a light race car to stick it in.

Let me guess... you want to install it in your pick up truck with 35" tall mudders and 2.73 gears
and get 30 MPG....

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-18-2012 at 11:34 PM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2012, 11:30 PM
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way too big for the rest of the parts,like fbird said. port the heads,aluminum intake,ignition work, etc. If you use that cam with stock intake and heads it will be like fbird said.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:42 PM
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Needs a B&M Supercharger and some generous cylinder head porting.


"Now you're cookin' with gas"
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:46 PM
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We don;t hate you at all.. Actually built lil 305s are cool.
This cam is probabily not well matched to the purpose thou.

Half the other parts of the combo that makes this all work
is missing.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:54 PM
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When I started this build I was just planning on getting an engine running, I decided to spice it up a bit with the bigger cam, it seemed like a good choice, but I guess it wasn't
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twenglish1 View Post
Whats wrong with the cam? too big for the 305?
its fine if you want a 4000 to 7000 rpm power band, have a 4 speed (or th-350) with a 8" 4500 stall race converter and 4.88's-5.13's in your camaro and did some serious work on the cylinder heads.

Oh its going to be ""Spice -y-",, thats for sure.
Best check the springs and rockers for coil bind and full open lift clearance with .510" valve lift.
Before you fire it up.

Would run pretty strong with some mods, porting and upgrades and a nitrous system.

Do you know how to lock out the advance curve on your distributor and mark the balancer for 36deg BTDC?

The motor will not be happy with a stock distributor timing curve. You can fix that up.

its not going to be very happy with stock valve springs. Get some Summit high perf valve springs for it. Or Lunati 73943 springs. Its going to want to rev up high to make its power with that cam.

Can you power shift a 4 speed trans at 7000rpm? LOL

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 11-19-2012 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:14 AM
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You need to get a die grinder and a few carbide burr bits and get silly on the cylinder heads to get some port air flow going on. Yu need cylinder head flow to make horsepower. Generous full home brewed porting fixes that up.

What is the casting number on your heads? (under valve cover). some 305 heads are better than others.
The ones with the tiny 1.72" intake valves kinda suck.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:40 PM
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Adjustable Bore? Interesting
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:08 PM
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I installed World Products S/R 58cc heads on my old 1986 305, with a Crane cam, Powermax 2020 designed for computer controlled motors which mine was at the time.
I had very good low end torque.
The heads and cam went onto my 350 and worked just as well sans computer.
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:07 PM
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To the OP: You're going to need to spend a LOT of time and MONEY to get that cam to perform well in that engine, pretty much you need a new ->EVERYTHING<-!

Your best bet is just to switch out the cam with something a bit smaller, like the XE268H. 12-242-2 - XTREME Energy

Note that's a flat tappet cam, I assumed you're using flat tappet since it's an 84 and you didn't mention a retro fit.

That cam will give you better power down low, and you won't need to swap your converter, although a 2000-2200 will benefit it. Likely your stock gearing will work just fine, but again some 3.42s would be nice. Porting the heads always helps. You'll want to swap the intake to a performer rpm and a better carb. That smaller cam should give you a nice sound at idle as well.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 02:18 PM
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That is a mean 305 Fbird. Is that the one you are working?

IF you are pulling the trans back for a converter. You might as well put a 3000 stall in. The 2200-2400 are to close to the stock stalls from the cars I remember. The 90's and on, had factory 2400-2800 stalls in what you may loosely call performance models. Even a 3000 is going to foot brake around 2200. You are not likely to lose drivability at that level.

Your cam is similar to the RPM design. That is a little much for a 305 driver, but still it should be workable. It will like/need the compression increase you factored.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:44 PM
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Well I tried firing it up today and had a problem, it seems like the starter doesn't have enough tourque to crank it over, it would crank a few times (slowly), it fired a couple times too, but it would stop cranking before it fired enough to get running, it seems to be draining the batter very quickly. First I used the battery out of my truck, fired a few times then wouldn't crank anymore, I bought a brand new battery with 780 cranking amps and the same thing happened. Any idea what the problem might be?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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check starter draw.check that the cables are clean and well connected
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:57 PM
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The cables are clean and well connected, it just seems like the starter is draining the batteries before it will start, after charging up a battery it will crank fast, fire a few times, then it will slow down to the point where it stops firing, then it stops cranking, it has to be the starter, the one battery is brand new and the other one was out of my truck and it starts without a problem
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