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Old 04-12-2010, 07:01 PM
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Performer RPM Vortec question

Hey guys. I got me a shiny new set of vortec heads and a performer rpm vortec intake (P/N 7116). I am using them on my 350 sbc and i would like to know a little more information before i start putting everything together. First the intake manifold.. External water bypass boss, nitrous bosses, rear water outlets, and two distributor clamp locations. No provision for exhaust-heated chokes. there are two threaded holes on each side of the main intake. What exactly are these for and do i need them. There is another threaded hole at the front of the manifold that is obviously for coolant flow but what exactly does it do for coolant flow. Now the heads..
Cylinder Head Material Cast iron
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 64
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 170cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape Square
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style Straight
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 1.940 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.500 in.
Valve Springs Included Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.250 in.

I would like to know what cam would best suit this combination. this is my every day driver, i dont race it (very often) i would like to stay with a smaller cam, one that i could use the lowest stall converter, the basic operating range of this set up is 1500-5500 rpm
i already have self aligning rocker arms and +.100 pushrods. any information is helpful. thanks

Chris

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Old 04-12-2010, 07:53 PM
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cam

Try this one on for size and value. Summit Racing part # SUM-1103 for cam only or SUM-K1103 for a cam and lifter kit. Cam is 52.95 or kit is 100.95. This is a very close cam to the GM 350/290hp crate cam. A smidge more lift and 2degrees more duration @.050 but a very good running stick. 214/224@.050 with .442/.465 lift. It has a 272/282 advertised duration with a 112 LSA. It would have a good exhaust note when cold then smooth to a throaty soung when warm. Basic cam operating range 2000-4500 rpm. We have run this stick in several daily run 350's and it has good power from around 1500 to 5500. B&M has a 12" 2000 rpm converter that is cheap and works well with it. It is around 140.00 at a local speed shop in Atlanta. Good street headers with 2 1/2 " flowmaster system will net an honest 300 hp at the crank with 300 to 325 torque in the cam range. Until Crane Cams went belly up they were the ones grinding for them. since S&S bought Crane last year I have not kept up with them.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:35 AM
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Thanks, l do some more looking into that. DO you know what the ports on the intake are for? I assume I can just plug the 2 on the sides, and but i would like to know what they are there for.
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:47 AM
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although the operating range is a hair higher that combo works well with a 220/220 cam on a 108LSA (or something close to that). To get it to your range I would just run a ZZ4 cam which you can buy cheap off of ebay.
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonhorst
DO you know what the ports on the intake are for?
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonhorst
Hey guys. I got me a shiny new set of vortec heads and a performer rpm vortec intake (P/N 7116). I am using them on my 350 sbc and i would like to know a little more information before i start putting everything together. First the intake manifold.. External water bypass boss, nitrous bosses, rear water outlets, and two distributor clamp locations. No provision for exhaust-heated chokes. there are two threaded holes on each side of the main intake. What exactly are these for and do i need them. There is another threaded hole at the front of the manifold that is obviously for coolant flow but what exactly does it do for coolant flow. Now the heads..
Cylinder Head Material Cast iron
Cylinder Head Finish Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc) 64
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber No
Intake Runner Volume (cc) 170cc
CNC-Machined Intake Runner No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner No
Intake Port Location Standard
Exhaust Port Shape Square
Exhaust Port Location Standard
Spark Plug Style Straight
Intake Valves Included Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 1.940 in.
Exhaust Valves Included Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.500 in.
Valve Springs Included Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.250 in.

I would like to know what cam would best suit this combination. this is my every day driver, i dont race it (very often) i would like to stay with a smaller cam, one that i could use the lowest stall converter, the basic operating range of this set up is 1500-5500 rpm
i already have self aligning rocker arms and +.100 pushrods. any information is helpful. thanks

Chris
The tapped holes on either side of the plenum are to run coolant under the intake to heat it in cold climates since there is no exhaust crossover to force fuel vaporization nor prevent icing in the throttle bores of street driven engines. The tapped hole on the front of the manifold is for the coolant by pass which keeps coolant circulating in the block when the thermostat is closed to prevent cavitation in the pump and the formation of overheated areas from developing steam pockets around the exhaust valves and spark plugs. These should be plumed with a fitting from the coolant crossover to the under plenum chamber. From the under-plenum plumb to the heater core if one is used and return to the small hose connection at the water pump or into the suction side radiator tank if so equipped. Or if this has air conditioning to the combination valve. If you live where under the manifold heat isn't required then just skip pluming under the plenum. Just keep in mind your finances against desires. Everybody wants to run a cold intake for a higher mixture density and more power. If you live where the weather is warm and dry this isn't much of a problem. But if you expect to use this when its cold and damp to get the engine to run you'll have to jack the mixture way rich. This has the negative result of dumping lots of raw fuel into the cylinders that washes the lube off the walls and piston with the effect of greatly shortening engine life.

For a choke you'll have to run a carb with either a manual or electric choke.

For a cam with a stock converter, you're limited to about 220 degrees max duration at .050 inch lift. Which actually is pretty close to the hot production cams of the muscle car age. I'd stay away from high lift rates like the Camp XE or the Lunati Voodoo, today's oils are not up to providing protection with these fast lift rate cams, besides if your sticking with the stock size valve spring unless your going to beehive springs you're pretty limited in spring pressure. Plus unless you relieve the top of the valve guide, you're limited to about .45 inch lift at the valve.

Why do you have .1 longer push rods? Push rod length is determined by the sweep of the rocker tip on the valve stem. The length that provides the proper sweep when determined by test and observation is the length you use. You need a set of adjustable length test push rods. Here's a link to Comp that outlines the procedure. http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FA...inGeometry.asp

Bogie
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:47 PM
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Here's one to consider.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201268/

.450/.450 lift
224/224 @ .050
107 LSA
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:50 PM
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Another

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-201264/

.450/.450 lift
214/214 @ .050
108 LSA


I think the Isky cams operating range ratings seem a little high.
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