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Old 08-25-2007, 10:10 PM
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petronix distibutor help (wiring) with pic

can i just run the red wire to the ignition or does it have to go to the coil also, and the black goes to the negative on the coil. is there anymore wires that hook up to the coil? do i run a new wire from the ignition and get rid of the ballast wire? thanks guys..
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:41 AM
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Doc here,

Connect it EXACTLY as shown in the diagram...

You Should be fine unless your not telling us everything you know about your system..

IF you will be running a performance Coil, on the HEI, yes scrub the ballast and rewire with a 10 gauge red wire from the Ignition directly to the Coil + or BATT side , provided you will no longer require a ballast for module protection (all covered in your installation instructions, check them first..)


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Old 08-26-2007, 06:28 AM
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pi,
just to be sure/safe/correct?....what is the car/motor

there is a pertronix unit for anything (almost) with a spark plug!!!

see page 2 on the link

http://www.pertronix.com/downloads/ignitor12vneg.pdf
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:39 AM
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its a 67 289, and its the whole distributor with a petronix coil made for that unit. Im also running a One wire alternator, all being installed on a 67 cougar. The diagram just makes it look like its one wire going from the dist(red) to the ignition. and i was unsure if the coil needed a ground wire going to the body or frame.. probably ovethinking....
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
IF you will be running a performance Coil, on the HEI, yes scrub the ballast and rewire with a 10 gauge red wire from the Ignition directly to the Coil + or BATT side , provided you will no longer require a ballast for module protection (all covered in your installation instructions, check them first..)

:
do i just put this 10 guage wire where the ballast wire was on the ignition?
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:37 AM
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pi,

the pertronix coil has 3 ohms* resistance so you don't need/want a 1.5ohm "ballast resistor" also on the ign switch wire

in a 67' Cougar the 1.5 to 2.0 "ballast resistor" is a bright pink resistance wire under the dash connected at the ign switch

for best spark performance you want to bypass/replace the pink resistor wire** (which knocks down the V to 6-9 at idle for points) so the coil gets 12V all the time

the coil mounting strap grounds the body of the coil to the motor

*measure ohms across the 2 small terminals to be sure it is close to 3 ohms..see attached .75-.81 ohm example
** don't cut it or splice into it...or it is ruined forever....replace it
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:54 AM
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forgot to post:

do keep the wire from the starter solonoid "I" terminal hooked up to the coil +

the pertronix needs a minimum 8V to operate the SS board

"if" you happen to have a weak batt and the starter is pulling a gazzilion amps....V drop in your old harnesses can give less than 8 V to the pertronix cranking=no fire

the solonoid to coil wire acts as a "batt jumper" to the coil while cranking

merry xmas... link to complete correct simple wiring schematics for your car (a Cougar is a Mustang except interior and sheet metal)

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring.htm
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:48 AM
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also forgot to post:

if the car still has the original harness from the alt routed down thru the rad support replace it ASAP (or make one)....it is totally shot....causes all kinds of whacko problems

"what were they thinking"!

only taped and loose thru the bottem of the rad!!!!

easiest fix is move the regulator over next to the alt where it belongs....only the red/green wire needs to go to the idiot light thru the fire wall connect
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pi71
do i just put this 10 guage wire where the ballast wire was on the ignition?


Doc here,

Yup..replace it from the Ignition switch all the way to the Coil + with a 10 gauge red..If running an aftermarket Performance Coil..

IF that becomes Problematic..

The equivalent circuit, is isolate ANY 12 Volt Switched Source (other than alternator or old Coil + wire) and obtain a Standard Bosch Automotive relay..

Connect the RELAY coil (Terminals #85 or #86, it makes no difference what one you use, relay coils are bidirectional..) to about a 1 amp fuse and your switched wire..The other (86 or 85..) to a properly bonded ground.

NEXT , Connect the RELAY terminal # 87 to the "BATT" side of the Starter solenoid..Via a 10 gauge RED wire..and fuse link or MAXI FUSE..(about 40 amp will do..)

Lastly, run the terminal # 30 over to the Coil + nut and connect it there. This too will be a 10 gauge Red wire..

Be Sure when the key is turned on the relay goes "Click".., and again when shut off, and your good to go..

Standard Ignition coils don't have ground *wires* Per~se..The Mount Footprint or coil can serves as a ground for the coil/Coil body...should you feel you are getting a bad ground, remove the coil, burnish off the paint from the mount and fender well holes, install star washers, and re~install the coil. That should set it right..



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Old 08-27-2007, 05:55 PM
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Pertronix Grounding

The Petronix module performs the same function as the points did - they ground the coil primary to charge it - so when the circuit is abruptly broken the secondary will fire the plug(s). (thank you Mr. Kettering)

The old points system you are removing - has a small braided copper jumper from the point plate (which pivots on a stud) to the mounting plate on the distributor body. It insures that the ground for the coil (through the points) is at least as good as the distributor body to the block. The Pertronix has to have at least as good a ground as the points did or trouble will someday find you - so don't lose the braided link in the process of installing the module. Why they don't print this in their literature is beyond me..........but it has blown up more than one module.

To avoid a mysterious on again/ off again problem - and also avoids a floating ground - several of my buddies have now added a flexible ground wire to the point plate - that runs clear out to the block.
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:16 AM
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agree with greenbird,

wise to add a very soft flexible ground wire from the pertronix mount screw to a good engine ground......

that insures the 5V SS board is grounded.....
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:38 AM
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Also be advised there are differences in wiring between the PERTRONIX and PERTRONIX II. Usually the module requires BAT VLT and the coil 9V (or thereabout).

There are complete wiring diagrams and information on the PERTRONIX website.

Installing a FORD TFI style E-Coil will give you a much hotter ignition and gets you away from an oil filled coil. If using an oil filled coil, it should be marked on the case as to what volt it can accept without damage.
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:54 AM
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Ford Coil

This is a Ford "TFI" coil - this particular one is off a '92 Lincoln at my favorite "pick-a-part" yunk yard. Best $5 performance part you will ever buy - it can deliver 45,000 volts if it has to. The mount is homemade out of a Ford bracket - but I have since found that a V6 Ford Probe of some 90's vintage has this same coil .... and a ready made version of the mounting bracket that works for all sorts of installs. When you get one - also grab the electrical connector and the nifty "rain hat". You can get a brand new coil and electrical connector at NAPA but watch your wallet. To run this coil with an old style conventional cap you will need to make an "adapter" spark lead that can fit the "male" pin on the coil .... and the "female" socket on the distributor cap.





If you run this coil with a Pertronix "Ignitor" (the original unit) - be aware that it only has 1.2 OHMS resistance and must have a ballast resistor. The Ford cars and trucks that used it had a 1.3 OHM(?) resistance wire built in to their ignition "on" circuit. This particular coil's connector had a single red 12 ga. power wire for the (+) terminal and two green striped 14 ga. leads off the (-). One of these leads went to the igniton box - and one to the tach.

Yes, that is a condensor on there - Ford installed them on many late models with electronic ignition. Goes on the negative side. It performs the same function as it did with the points - it eats the inductive kick on the primary side of the coil that causes points to "burn". The same damage can also occur with the switching transistor in an electronically controlled inductive system. This is a reliability issue - if you take off from coast to coast ........Ford must have considered it important.

This was mentioned in a previous post - in the instructions - Pertronix does not tell you what to do about the Ford "starting jumper" (my words not Ford's).



On many Ford cars and trucks - I don't know the year spread - but lots, there is a built in connection in the wiring harness from the starter solenoid directly to the hot side of the coil. This gives the coil "full" battery voltage when you are starting the engine (voltage actually sags way below normal when the starter engages and draws big amps). The Pertronix black wire (or point system) goes on the negative (-) side of the coil in this diagram. The red wire must be on the left side of the ballast resistor shown here to get full control voltage to the module. It is virtually impossible to tell if this starting feature has been responsible for any switching module failures.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:34 PM
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pi,

a correction....

the pertronix website says that the Ford billet dist you bought does have a ignitor II module....
you should have received the "Flame Thrower II" coil to go with it which is a .6 ohm coil (not the 3.0ohm coil)

just a comment:
I'd bet a cold beverage they are buying the Jacobs Electronics "Energy" coil which does have very good perfomance spec's
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREENBIRD56

GREENBIRD56,

You are a knowledgeable and advanced enthusist. My hat is off to you (watch out for the glare).

But I just have to gig you on there being no nipple on the fresh air tube (choke stove) directly above the choke heater (or do you just have that removed for a better photo?).

Sorry, I just had to aggravate somebody this morning...
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