Photos anyone??? #'s before and after - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2008, 11:06 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mt.Vernon,IN
Posts: 484
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Photos anyone??? #'s before and after

I was wundering if any of you guys had any photos of some Dart iron eagle 200's. I hear some guys talk about fully porting them, some run them as cast, and some just "CLEAN THEM UP". I'm wanting to see the different area's that guys have "CLEANED UP" for better flow, and see what a set looks like fully ported. I may use this info to modify a set for myself, so please be as descriptive as you can in the work that was performed. I probably won't fully port them, but I will gasket match them and do my best to clean them up, but I need to know what area's to really look at to improve the flow and velocity. Where do these things struggle?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 12:33 PM
automotive breath's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 891
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I ported a set of Dart Iron Eagles with 180cc intake runners a while back.
I'll see If I can find more pictures. The most important area needing attention
is from 1/2" before to 1/2" after the valve, this is the largest restriction
in the port. Learning to size and shape this area correctly is the primary
consideration.




*****************************

When increasing port size is required, there are several different things you
can do. Gasket matching does almost nothing. Reducing the valve guide
bulge, widening the pushrod pinch, widening the short turn and rising the
roof are a few of the concerns. This is a before and after comparison of
a word products head for a big inch small block.



Last edited by automotive breath; 10-14-2008 at 12:39 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:41 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Mt.Vernon,IN
Posts: 484
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not sure I understand

Hey autobreath,

I'm not sure I understand where you mean by "a 1/2" before and a 1/2" after the valve. Are you talking about in the bowl?? If you could find any photos of what that particular head looked like "as cast" and point to or highlight the specific areas I should concentrate on removing material. They won't be going on a really BIG inch small block (355), so I'm not so much concerned with increasing the port size. I just wanna clean them up where ever I can to improve out of the box flow. A 180cc runner would be Ideal for my motor, but according to dynosim a 200cc would do pretty good as well with a little less torque below 4000. However my stall is 33-3500, so I would hope the torque would be there by then.

I looked at the 200's cuz I can get a set new in boxes for 400, and cuz I heard that the 180's flow VERY POORLY as cast.


Has anyone used the dart SS heads. I know they are more of a stock replacement, but I was just wundering how they flow stock and with porting. Are they even worth messing with?? just curious..... I am definitely buying something, I just gotta decide what. I told the guy that runs one of the local engine building shops here in town that I was thinking of gettin a 180cc IE and porting it, and he looked at me like I was an IDIOT and said then why not just buy a 200cc runner. I'm still learning how all this stuff works as far as porting goes, but I would think a head with a 180cc runner thats been ported and polished well would be better then a cast 200cc runner..... Right?? The example I gave him was the flow #'s for a 180cc AFR CNC head v.s. a 200cc Brodix. The AFR is gonna flow better and have better port velocity. He still couldn't understand my logic though. Obviously I'm not gonna get a good of porting job as AFR's in my garage but It still should help.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:59 PM
automotive breath's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 891
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by eatonde
I'm not sure I understand where you mean by "a 1/2" before and a 1/2"
after the valve...
Take a ruler and measure from the seat ~1/2 into the bowl and measure out
~1/2" into the chamber. Thats the most important area. This includes the valve
job, the bowl and the chamber (shroud). The air must flow freely around the
valve into the chamber with no restrictions.

The size of the bowl is important; ~87% of valve diameter, bigger is not
better. The OD of the shroud in the chamber is determined by the bore.
Put a valve in the guide at Max lift of the cam and take a look at the distance
between the valve and the chamber wall, thats the valve shroud.

Next clean up the push rod pinch and the short turn (bottom of the port where
it turns into the bowl). No need to reshape or resize here, just smooth things
out. Lastly reduce the size of the valve guide boss like in the second picture
above. This combined is generally worth about 0.2 - 0.3 second reduction in
1/4 mile times.

Here's a finished bowl/chamber done by Larry Meaux.


Last edited by automotive breath; 10-14-2008 at 10:13 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.