Originally Posted by painted jester
I just read you post after answering H.comptons post LOL I like the read!! Thanks for posting that
If I saw it before I posted compton it would have saved me typing LOL
I use hastings rings, regular old moly rings will work best in the old engine total seals are very expensive but not worth the money without prepping the bore for low tension rings. The part number of the box on my coffee table is .030 over but you can match it up with proper bore size.
Hastings 2m 139 030
The last number is the bore size these are .030 over. 4.030 bore.
To jester: have your rods sized to the proper fit and you wont need to do crazy stuff to make your builds work. With the crank properly polished and the rods properly sized your bearings should be drop in if you buy quaility products. Use clevlite bearings and you can just drop them in place and check them with the plastiguage and they will be right over the life of the engine if they are replaced before the bearings fail and takeout the crank.
Acids do damage bearings by removing the coating of zinc and tin and other metals. Does not effect the copper or steel. Your proving my point here. Once you loose all the bearing material the engine needs new bearings. Plain and simple just like the ones in the pictures.
Bearing manufactures are hardly concerned that you need to turn the engine while building it. Modern engines are built by machine and all pistons are placed at once with the crank in second and everything linedup for install so the engineis not turned until it is started. Why would they patten a super coating that cost millions to develope if its totally useless.
Surely during the life of an engine it will see metal to metal contact. What if it sits for two years bearing can still get oil and be fine as long as the babbit material is still in place. Also hard corners or braking will cause lose in oil pressure. Crank will push the oil out in ms if the pressure is down. The only and entire reason plain bearings are made of soft metal.
Just for fun lets hear how making the rings grooves deeper can increase the ring gap aloowing a ring that is too long to be somehow shorter. If you have ever sized a set of rings you would know it does not envole the piston at all. I usally use my solid ring compressor to gap rings these days instead of using the bore to test fit.
To the OP sorry for off topic info. Had to let it slip.