[darkostoj]

alright I currently have the summit k1107 hyd flat in there right now. I'm still building the motor and i'm debating on going to a smaller cam (summit k1105) since this one seems a little too big. Here are the specs on the cams

k1107
234/244 @.50 .488/.510 lift 114 lsa (in motor now)

k1105
224/234 @.50 .465/.488 lift 114 lsa (thinking about buying)


these are the specs on the motor

67 camaro
355
8.7:1 comp oringed block and copper head gaskets
trw forged dished blower pistons .040 quench
afr 195 eliminators 64cc chamber
summit k1107 cam (specs above)
15-20lbs of boost on a 671 blower (well get it refreshed & teflon strips installed)
prosystems E85 750 carbs
h beam rods
steel crank
custom 200r4
9" with 3.70 gear and a lock right


This is primarily going to be a street car and I was thinking i'd probably gain a good amount of power on the bottom end by not sacrificing too much up top with the smaller cam....whats everyones thoughts?

[ap72]

If you're going through all of the added expense on the long block why are you getting the cheapest cam you can find?

The summit cams are for people who just need something cheap to slap in an engine, not really for a high performance engine like yours. You're leaving A LOT of power on the table by not going with a solid roller or even a solid flat tappet. At least 50 hp.

[68NovaSS]

I see you're block will be "O" ringed and all, but you realize your effective c.r. at 8.5:1 and 14 lbs of boost will be 16.6:1, and at 20 lbs of boost 20:1? And you'll run it daily on the street? I understand you won't be under boost constantly, but it's a bunch or cylinder pressure.

[ap72]

Oh he won't be running 20 psi, but we can let him think that. It won't take that much either to make 700 hp. 12psi is a lot more practical, and still enough if he builds the rest accordingly.

If he's running summit cams I doubt it though.

[darkostoj]

Originally Posted by ap72

Oh he won't be running 20 psi, but we can let him think that. It won't take that much either to make 700 hp. 12psi is a lot more practical, and still enough if he builds the rest accordingly.

If he's running summit cams I doubt it though.

whats wrong with summit cams? All a cam does is time valve opening and closing events...and you don't need a super expensive cam for it to do its job accordingly. Summit cam's are awesome and cheap, why spend more money on something when I don't have to......hmmmmm now that I think about it you're right....I'm going to go order a comp cams camshaft and wipe out a lobe on breakin!!!! Sounds like a much better idea

oh and I won't be running 20psi? What else won't I be doing since you are the all time car know it all?

here is some reading material since you probably want to tell these people whats up with their cam's also

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=106407.0

Summit Cam?

[ap72]

I'm not saying Crane is the only choice, in fact for a high hp engine, they wouldn't be a first choice for me. But summit cams are not the greatest by a long shot and cams are not as simple as you are saying. The fact that you are looking at those cams tells me that you really don't know what you're doing. You probably found a few articles, talked to a few sales men, and decided to slap it all together and see what happens.

running 20 psi on a run of the mill 6-71 on a 350 will destroy something major... I'm not sure if it'll be the engine or the blower first but whatever it is, it will be awesome to see.

If you really want some good advice and want to do this right then we can help, but none of us will recomend that you go for a cheapo hyd. cam for a 700 hp small block.

[techinspector1]

First thing I'd be doin' is shopping for a roller block. I know of two that were purchased in the last week by guys on this forum. One for $100 and one for $75. Being able to start with a roller block for such a steal seems like a no-brainer to me. Both these guys are newbies, but they had enough sense to take my recommendation to start with a roller.

[ap72]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

First thing I'd be doin' is shopping for a roller block. I know of two that were purchased in the last week by guys on this forum. One for $100 and one for $75. Being able to start with a roller block for such a steal seems like a no-brainer to me. Both these guys are newbies, but they had enough sense to take my recommendation to start with a roller.

For hp, you cannot be soild cams, either flat or roller, and neither requires a roller block. Even if he runs a solid flattie he's better of than a hyd. roller as far as power goes.

a hyd roller is nice for a daily driver that you never want to work on but I don't think that this is that type of situation.

[Rick WI]

I would stick with the current cam, I think torque is going to be the least of your worries. I would pay more attention to the 200 tranny as although you indicate "custom" the line pressures, billet shaft, clutches, drum all need to be "the best" to survive without either breaking or burning it up inside. I know, I run one at 700ish. For a converter, you can't be an Edge for price and performance and you do want lock up.

I have dynoed 383's with superchargers and 230 duration camshafts with Brodix heads. 230 to 240 is the range I'd say you will want to be in to meet your goal. The only drawback to either cam is neither takes advantage of the cylinder heads. We would spec a much higher lift. No matter if you make 600 or 700 it will still be more than enough.

On the carb, make sure you take note on how the float levels will need adjusting. If like the E85's we have done, they will be MUCH higher than gasoline. Get a big pump as well.

[darkostoj]

Originally Posted by Rick WI

I would stick with the current cam, I think torque is going to be the least of your worries. I would pay more attention to the 200 tranny as although you indicate "custom" the line pressures, billet shaft, clutches, drum all need to be "the best" to survive without either breaking or burning it up inside. I know, I run one at 700ish. For a converter, you can't be an Edge for price and performance and you do want lock up.

I have dynoed 383's with superchargers and 230 duration camshafts with Brodix heads. 230 to 240 is the range I'd say you will want to be in to meet your goal. The only drawback to either cam is neither takes advantage of the cylinder heads. We would spec a much higher lift. No matter if you make 600 or 700 it will still be more than enough.

On the carb, make sure you take note on how the float levels will need adjusting. If like the E85's we have done, they will be MUCH higher than gasoline. Get a big pump as well.

the trans and converter are going to be top notch. I have a reputable guy that lives about 5 minutes from my parents that is great and does top notch work. I'm going with a lockup converter, but its only going to be locked up under freeway driving...I couldnt afford the 5 clutch billet monster lockup that he has for locking up at WOT.

You said higher lift would take advantage of these heads. I was going to get it all running with the 1.5's and swap over to 1.6's to see if there was much of an improvement...but that was going to be later on down the line.

as far as E85 goes I have a BG220hr fuel pump so that should hopefully give enough volume for E85, but we'll see

[mrdreex]

Originally Posted by darkostoj

the trans and converter are going to be top notch. I have a reputable guy that lives about 5 minutes from my parents that is great and does top notch work. I'm going with a lockup converter, but its only going to be locked up under freeway driving...I couldnt afford the 5 clutch billet monster lockup that he has for locking up at WOT.

You said higher lift would take advantage of these heads. I was going to get it all running with the 1.5's and swap over to 1.6's to see if there was much of an improvement...but that was going to be later on down the line.

as far as E85 goes I have a BG220hr fuel pump so that should hopefully give enough volume for E85, but we'll see

You really should make the choice of what ratio rockers you want to run now and stick with it while you're picking your cam, so when you dial in your cam and check for P/V clearance, you know exactly what you'll have. Increasing the ratio = increasing net lift, which will increase your chances of P/V contact.

[Rick WI]

5 disk? No need for that to lock up on full throttle, either a 9X11 or Edge can do that. PTS in Cali (bruce) or Chris, www.ckperformance.com, in NY or Jake www.jakesperformance.com are the few folks I'd trust to spec out parts for a 200 at this level. All three will work directly with your local builder on the parts that are proven to work. Even if you only make 600 HP there are a ton of things that need to be done correctly to make sure the tranny lives. One flair on a shift and the tranny will be junk at this level. PTC is another excellent converter for your application. I just did some business with Jake and he is a superb resource an will save you a ton of dough on parts. I'd suggest that as a first shot call. Tell him Rick from WI sent you.

Expensive upgrading the rockers versus just getting a cam grind which will get you into the .550+ range with current 1.5 rockers as well as have a much better/more modern ramp profile. Thus making more power. How cams get to the valve events is important, and that is where the advances have been made.

Remember as well, or in case you were not aware, most cam manufacturers get thier cores from Crane.

Pump should work fine