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#31
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Quote:
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Disposal is a problem, so best thing you can do is wrap it and give it as an Xmas present to someone you don't like. Never use lacquer thinner or urethane reducer as a wash before shooting any epoxy or 2K primer, they are not cleaners and because of the ladder scale they are formulated to, they will clean some spots and leave the residue in other spots. It is an easy diagnosis because the question is always the same. I have spots where the paint is coming off and right next to that spot, you cannot scrap it off with a razor scraper. |
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#32
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An important point to note is that there are still epoxies out there that are not designed to go to bare metal unless it has been treated with a metal conditioner first! The brand that I and many of the guys here use is specifically designed to go onto bare, sanded, untreated metal, and performs best this way. No matter which epoxy product you use, read the tech sheets very carefully!
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#33
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Picklex20 -
http://www.picklex20.com/
According to the manufacturer, it is intended to use as a pre-conditioner - prior to priming, painting, powdercoating, etc.. No rinsing. I think I would prefer to spray on a coat of epoxy primer on parts, straight out of the media blaster cabinet. From there, they go into dry storage until I'm ready to paint and put the parts on the car... |
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#34
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Quote:
The lacquer thinner evaporates far too quickly not allowing enough time to remove all wax & grease, plus it can leave behind it's own contaminates. You are spending big bucks on a paint job, do not shortcut it with inferior products right at the start. A proper wax & grease remover must not be allowed to evaporate, it should be wiped dry with a lint free clean cloth. Vince
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Here's to you DoC, you will always be here. My project 34 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/34-...ght=34+progress |
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