PICKLING, SOAK an old supercharger TO LOOSEN UP. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pk44
Edit above.


It's here:
Hotrod a '52 Chrysler flathead 6 ??? have to scroll down a bit for the pictures. Wasn't sure how the project would be accepted here.

Should have put that up in the first. PK
let me help....from thread

Hotrod a '52 Chrysler flathead 6 ???


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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 09:59 PM
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That a generous offer. I may take you up on that, I'll PM you with some more details of the project.

PK
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 10:47 PM
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Don't count on plastic bags holding any type liquid, even water, without it leeching through. I know it sounds crazy, but I've left wet trash in the garage the night before trash day to find the floor soaked all around the bag when I went to put it out the next morning.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2010, 09:10 AM
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Good point, I was thinking about that yesterday. I didn't quite see it working but wasn't sure why. I wonder if it's leaching or if the bottom seam isn't up to it.

A new plan is to heat form a good plastic (polypro.) pan around the thing, as best I can, with a heat gun. I took a closer look and to submerge the whole thing in a minimum sized bucket wold take more like 15 gallons of brew. So I have think of something.

If I could drink the swill when I was done well...different story

Regards, PK
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2010, 01:47 PM
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That thing is cool!

search the internet for heavy industrial grade vacuum-forming bags. lay that alien looking **** on its side in the bag, pour in some diesel or atf., suck the air out with a shopvac and close it up.Id also put a couple bags of kitty litter or sand on the ground with maybe a 2x4 frame around the whole mess to act as a "dam" of sorts. Dont need much really. A lot of craftsmen use vacuumbags for things like wood working to impregnate their work piece. Now youre essentially not trying to draw solvent into every pore of the metal, just confine the solvent to a smaller area. If you use the pickling method, make sure you're careful applying heat later should you choose to do so....nothing like a graham blower turned roman candle. AND aluminum doesnt change color when you heat it.

good luck
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:50 PM
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It would seem to me to be easier to take it apart and clean it that way, rather than trying to soak it wholesale, assembled.

For what 15 gallons of most any solvent will cost, I would get some of the good Berryman Chemtool B9 (w/methylene chloride- one of the few products left that still has the "good stuff"). The stuff works great on carbs, iron, steel, zinc and and aluminum castings- you name it. It dissolves carbon, crusted on sludge, etc.- the very things your blower is full of, no doubt.

Last edited by cobalt327; 09-13-2010 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:57 PM
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This is going to sound crazy....... but I tell you it works! Wrap the thing in a trash bag (as prev suggested), place in another container and pour sand around bag etc.....pour into the plastic bag 2 liter bottles of Coke-a-Cola untill the whole thing is submerged etc..... pour water into the sand, let it set for 3 days and change out the coke. You will be amazed at how coke will remove rust.
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:57 PM
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My thinking is that the Op desires to get it apart in the first place..once that is done then cleaning of parts can take place along with replacement of bearings and fasteners to make it operational again..Weighing the expense of a few gallons of diesel and a bucket against the trouble of finding one of those in good condition the cleanig materials are cheap..

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Old 09-14-2010, 10:21 AM
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The reason I’m not tearing it apart right now is because 1) It’ll be a lot easier if loosened up I think. Some nasty shafts and the impeller don’t want to be hammered on) 2) I got way to much on my plate with other stuff on the project and a couple other semi seized things I’d like to dunk and determine their relative viability, just see what I got with out a lot of fuss at this point. I can get by without them (I’ll get to them though)

If any are locked solid, they go on the back-burner. They’re not critical. I can do the relatively straight forward stuff and make this thing go...relatively pretty fast, without them.


Cobalt 37; That’s a new one, I’ll look into that…Sounds nasty (good)

EODguy: I love it cause it’s so unorthodox. Must be some interest science behind it. Might try it on some ancient carbs I have.

AUTOGEAR. That’s a good idea…Are you thinking vacuum bags in the traditional sense (carbon fiber fabrication) or, the consumer “as seen on TV’ things for putting your whole closet in a plastic pillow case? (thanks for the nod on this thing)

ponch62 I will be in touch


Thanks all again, I hope this thread is useful for others, ‘elluva a lot of great Ideas.

Regards, PK
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:59 PM
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Commercial variety...as in industrial not TV-commercial. I dont think the sham-wow guy was thinking of solvents and the residual primordial goo when it comes to vacuum bags.
Hell if you can find one; maybe one of those plastic kiddie-pools for a few bucks might work as a containment vessel.
My thought is like marinating a piece of beef...ziplock bag, a dose of marinade and squish the air out to make direct contact easier with less liquid. I always do this and then set the bag in a glass dish in case the bag leaks.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 02:24 PM
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Ya I can see “vacuum bags” probably being pretty impermeable. On the other hand, the epoxy resin commonly used in in vac. bags, mostly with carbon fiber stuff (as far as I know) is about as innocuous as mothers milk.

About the most caustic stuff mentioned in this thread I think is acetone (I don’t know what’s in diesel but you can substitute old cooking oil for it...how bad can that be) so maybe the “made for smucks” vac. bags would work ok because I bet there made of vinyl and it's pretty chemically tough, good for a week or so, that's all I need.

It would be pretty cool if from all this. and with the epa creeping down everyone’s back, a way to soak an unruly parts with just a couple quarts of legal, iff a solution with legal "off the shelf" stuff emerged.

I’m with you, I wand to clean my supercharger, not a 15 gallon bucket with $150 worth of goo. I’m going to strap it up in some sort of bag.

Well, there goes my lunch break, back at it,

Thanks, PK
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 04:52 PM
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Try the coke on a small rusty part, in small contaiiner etc...... I lost a bet on this .... I bet WD40 would remove/loosen the rust better than coke on so very rusty drill stops..... 4 stops ea in WD40 and 4 more in coke, after 3 days.... coke soaked were almost rust free, they were still pitted but you could make out the base metal..... WD40 still as rusted as day one. thinking of the plastic bags.... might try those extra heavy duty contractor trash bags they are at least 4 mils thick
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 05:21 PM
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Or Marbles if ya got 'um.

I thought of it driving home. Put the blower in a bucket or plastic tub that fits it. Most plastic tubs are resistant to acid and or Base within reason the ATF is mildly acidic.

I mentioned before that the "Dollar" stores have all sizes cheap. Put the blower in something that fits decent. Fill the remaining void with gravel or sand, and top it off with Ford type ATF. Put the lid on it
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 05:38 PM
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Just a bit of info, WD40 is not a penetrant, it is a lubricating water displacement formula, #40 to be precise.
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Old 09-14-2010, 05:39 PM
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ive heard of using ATF and brake fluid 50/50. has anyone else done this? also how about puyting the blower in a contractor bag filled with the mix and burring it alive in sand in a tub? no leaks, and you wont have to buy as much of what even concoction you were planning to mix.
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