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Heres a cool one....
I used my trailer for the first time, went and got my Christmas tree. Ask Brian how he did his.
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Ontario Rodders |
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3 tips,1. square up before you weld, 2. SQUARE up before you WELD, and 3. SQUARE UP BEFORE YOU WELD!!!!!!!!!
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Where you cut the frame only matters if you are using the frame. I have built several using different year chevys and an old courier. If you are building your own frame then the length of the tongue depends on your set up. I like to take into account how far my hitch sticks out on my tow truck and make the hitch long enough so you can turn without the front off the bed hitting your tail lights.Use soap stone and lay it out on a clean flat concrete slab.
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Brian
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Thats neat MartinSr. When I made mine I used a bulldog hitch and brought the frame together at the right angle so I could weld hitch directly to frame rails.
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I'd say just lay the bed upside down and bolt the first 2 sections where the bolt holes go in the bed and start putting in some cross pieces, at least 4. Then take a long straight piece of square tubing and put it up the center, tack or clamp it for a centerline and build the hitch portion to the centerline. If you left the siderails long you could just bend them in at this point and weld on the coupler. Reinforce the tubing where the axle mounts, center that up and weld it in. flip it over, pull the box and finnish the welding. Those torsion axles are cool and real easy to mount. Also get the swing up jack.
And also make sure the tongue is plenty long, at least 4-5 feet. Any less and you will never be able to back it up. |
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I am pretty sure you can buy a torsion axle to match your lug pattern.
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Last edited by jim and robie; 12-24-2007 at 05:33 AM. |
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I would think that by the time you buy and axle, get the tubing to build a frame, and spend the hours fabbing a frame up, you could pick up an S-Dime frame for a little of nothing and utilize it. Modify the front and be good to go. At least with the frame you have the axle setup, all bolt holes are already there, springs are already there, etc. But that's just my $.02. Happy Holidays all.
Kevin |
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Jim, those are some BEAUTIFUL trailers!!! Very nice!!! I have to get off my dying *** and onto my dead feet and get out there and rebuild mine to look like that. VERY NICE!
Kevin, I am with you, tubing is expensive! But I have to say, I get a twitch in my eye when I think about using the stock rear axle under the trailer with the yoke spinning around as I go down the highway. I got a dropped axle complete with hubs with a matching bolt pattern to wheels I wanted to use for ....damn I can't remember.....I think it was about $200. You can get them a LOT cheaper if you aren't as picky as me. I HAD to have the 5x5.5 inch bolt pattern (early Ford) which meant a 3500lb axle. had to be used. If you go to the trailer places you can get a generic 1500lb axle and hubs for about a hundred bucks! This is COMPLETE bearings, seals and all. These hubs are pretty light weight, but they're way less than a hundred bucks for axle and all! For a little heavier duty it will still be about a hundred. Click here for the Axle.... Click here for the hubs, lug nuts, cotter pin and all!! Personally, I want the weight that I pull to be IN the trailer, not the trailer it's self. So even if it was "just a trailer" and nothing special, I still think I would go witht the trailer axle. Brian |
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