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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2006, 11:14 AM
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Steve,

I have a Lincoln 175 Mig and a Lincoln Precision Tig 185-I use the Mig about 80% of the time, and if I had to pick just one, it would depend on what type of work I was doing-if I were doing primarily restoration body work, I would get the 185 Tig, and, you are correct-it does take longer, but the welds are beautiful. For everything else (including a lot of body work), I would get a Mig-

By the way, yes, you can Mig aluminum-

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Old 06-15-2006, 11:20 AM
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The Twenty Gauge is a cored wire but it is a true MIG wire (M-etal I-nert G-as) and runs best on a 75 -25 mix (C/25 as it is commonly known) and it is not to be confused with the gas-less flux core which is a completely different animal altogether. The JW Harris site says it can be used with straight CO2 but I have found it really needs the C25 to work right but C25 is what you will want to use with any steel MIG wire. Yes you can weld aluminum with a MIG just fine however the thinner stuff welds a lot better with a TIG and really TIG is probably better all around for aluminum. To weld aluminum with MIG you simply change wire and switch to straight Argon gas but it is a bit different so practice first before tackling anything valuable. I have talked so much about that Twenty Gauge wire that it is starting to get a little embarrassing but honestly in all my years of chasing that little blue light I have never seen anything that even comes close to what it will do on thin sheet and it is much easier for a novice to weld body panels without burn through or warpage than with solid wire.
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Old 06-15-2006, 04:20 PM
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On my MIG, you have to put in a teflon sleeve so the alum. wire doesn't hang up. You also have to run pure argon (IIRC). Never tried it (yet).
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Old 06-15-2006, 06:38 PM
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Using a Lincoln Weld Pak 100.

I Started with the .035 flux cored wire and man that was tough to weld that thin metal patches. Then I bought the conversion kit to change it over to MIG and now use the .023 wire with the 75 25 gas mixture and I will never go back. What I like about the MIG is it really leaves less splatter and you can really lay some flat welds. I know some guys though that with the flux cored can lay some weld lines that look like glass. What I have had to learn over the year is how to dial in for different types of butt welds I've done and have really enjoyed the MIG. Now one question I do have is, is TIG easier to use to create flat penetrating welds?

MP
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:22 AM
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IMHO,

I don't know that I would say easier-I would say it's more controllable. Since you have a foot pedal (or Handamptrol) you can change the amount of heat (Amps) into the Weld on the fly, so with practice, you can stay just on the edge of burn-through easier. If you can Oxy-Ace Weld well you can Tig-it does take a lot more practice (at least it did for me) to Tig, and on sheetmetal it is a smaller weld (I use .035 rod).

Again, if you are going to do fine, no-bondo kind of work, Tig welds are a little easier to planish than Mig welds, so it appears there is a new debate: does it take longer to metal finish a panel with Tig (slower welding, easier to "hammer-weld", and for me, a larger HAZ), or a Mig Weld (Faster, harder to planish, usually easier to burn-through). For brackets and such that I am not going to grind the Welds on (and my Buddy's will see) I Tig (looks Better). For mocking things up, or quick "get it done" type of stuff, I Mig-
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:08 AM
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My Lincoln 175 MIG will do aluminum with the "kit" and I believe it requires 100% Argon. Never tried it though.
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Old 06-19-2006, 11:10 AM
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pictures of my repair

Here is a couple pictures of my repair effert. I hope it doesn't look too bad for a novice. I have it sprayed with some cheap butt rattle can primer for now. I have some epoxy and some filler for later.

Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated.








hope this worked
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:14 PM
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Something to keep in mind as you approach the job.

If you do not seal the back side of a pin hole and you put bondo on than you risk long term swelling of the bondo as it absorbs moisture through the hole.

I would be sure to epoxy prime both sides and be sure the pin holes are filled.
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Old 06-19-2006, 01:14 PM
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PIn holes look like they are gone. I'm thinking that I might try to get a brush behind the panel and put some eastwood rust encapsulator on the back side.
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