Anybody got a pin code for the 5 pin early GM power window switches.
I want to install them into a 2 door car and have minimal electrical expertise.
I do not have the harness plugs and expect to just solder each wire directly to the correct pin.
I wouldn't recommend trying to solder wires directly to the switch's pins, because the plastic that the pins are molded into will not hold up to the heat of soldering. You can try it, but there's a good chance you will ruin the switch in the process.
You should be able to find the correct plugs in a boneyard or at a good auto parts store. Otherwise, there's always flea-bay: (link)
Guys thanks heaps for the info.
Sadly, I am away from home so will try my luck on eBay for now.
They are asking drug prices for those plugs and I don't even need the door lock stuff...
bullet style connectors and some 5 min epoxy will allow you to make you own connector, if you have the room behind the door panel.
Take some tin foil and press the switch terminals thru it, taking care not to rip the tin foil as much as possible. Crimp wire into one end of the bullet connector, press the female bullet connectors on the switch terminals as far as possible, take some Vaseline and carefully spread it around the bullet connectors and to seal the switch terminals from the epoxy. Carefully spread the epoxy in and around the bullet connectors, trying hard not to get it on everything, thin layers are best, keep layering it up until it's solid etc..... remove it in one piece and you have a connector.
If you take it slow and not make a mess, it'll work very well.
Well following on from the good suggestion to make a couple of plugs to suit my power window switches.
Here is what I have made and while they are nothing special to look at they look like they will do the job just right.
Next step will be to try and get some correct color wires and duplicate the circuitry previously posted for me.
My plan is solder the wires to the tag at the end of the connectors set into the resin block and then use some of that heat shrink tubing to ensure no chance of a short circuit happening.
I did add a layer of cardboard under the aluminium foil which helped catch a few drips that came thru.
The cardboard does not tear like the foil and hence provided a better seal around the pins.
The Vasoline worked a treat and I had no problems separating everything once the resin had set.
Since these switches are being used in my old 59 Ford F100, I went down to the local electronic store and purchased a pair of universal plastic box enclosures just the right size to cut out the face and inset the switches I have which I will then screw to a location in the truck that will save me from cutting too much out of all the panels as there is no trim in these old pickup trucks.
I'll just mount the small boxes and run with that for now.
Well following on from the good suggestion to make a couple of plugs to suit my power window switches.
Here is what I have made and while they are nothing special to look at they look like they will do the job just right.
Next step will be to try and get some correct color wires and duplicate the circuitry previously posted for me.
My plan is solder the wires to the tag at the end of the connectors set into the resin block and then use some of that heat shrink tubing to ensure no chance of a short circuit happening.
I did add a layer of cardboard under the aluminium foil which helped catch a few drips that came thru.
The cardboard does not tear like the foil and hence provided a better seal around the pins.
The Vasoline worked a treat and I had no problems separating everything once the resin had set.
Since these switches are being used in my old 59 Ford F100, I went down to the local electronic store and purchased a pair of universal plastic box enclosures just the right size to cut out the face and inset the switches I have which I will then screw to a location in the truck that will save me from cutting too much out of all the panels as there is no trim in these old pickup trucks.
I'll just mount the small boxes and run with that for now.
Can you tell me what female pin connectors you used? The pins are are 10awg (2.87mm) and I cannot find pins that, on paper, will work. You obviously made something work so I was hoping you had the history on those.
Thanks
Ed
I got it all mounted and setup for wiring, then my electrician tells me that the relationship between the switches and motors was wrong and he could not connect them to work.
So after all that trouble, I was pushed to purchase new switches that do not look as good and I ended up with only switches at the drivers side and no control for the passenger.
It works fine for me but I must say I was confused regarding his comments and ended up with something less than I had hoped for.
Ed, I know it sounds pretty dumb, but I just went to a Tandy style store and picked thru the pins they had and tried a few on my switch until I found the type that I felt was the best fit.
Maybe an auto electrical store could have the same stuff.
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