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Old 09-29-2004, 11:13 PM
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pinstripe flames

I'm wanting to lay down a base color ( blue )and then tape out some flames. Next I will shoot my main color ( black ) over everything and pull off my tape to reveal the blue pinstripe flames. I haven't read anything on this type of application. Any advice on this, pros or cons ?

This will all be single stage , FLAT finish , acrylic urethane .
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Old 10-06-2004, 09:51 PM
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To get the point at the edge of the flames, use a glass cutter. They roll-cut, like pizza cutters, so you shouldn't damage the undercoating. Other than that, use good tape (blue tape is my friend) and good luck, remember to post pics, should look awesome and awesome idea!
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Old 10-07-2004, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gypsypoet
To get the point at the edge of the flames, use a glass cutter.
Just to clarify...do you mean use the glass cutter to cut the tape at the very "tip" of the flame? The edge of the tape still defines the edge of the flames just like laying down normal flames, correct? It's just at the very tip where the tape needs to be cut, right?
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:36 PM
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Yep, you're right on. You could also style the flames with the cutter as well.
Make sure you get a new one, sharp blade.
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Old 10-07-2004, 05:57 PM
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hi, you can paint the flames any way you want. you can either spray the base color black then mask off for the flames or you can spray the blue then mask for the flames and then spray the black. edge out the flames with 3m 1/8" blue fine line tape and fill in the rest with either automotive masking tape or transfer-rite. i've never heard of using a glass cutter but everyone got their own way i guess. any custom painter i've ever seen has a trusty exact knife in his hand, and i've seen alot!!! since you are using single stage paints just remember that when you lay down your first color, let it cure for a couple-few days before you tape off for the flames. what will happen is the paint is still soft and fresh when you lay the tape on it the adhesive burns into it and when its removed you are left with nice tape marks in the finish.
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:13 PM
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glass cutters more or less crush the tape apart, and don't damage the paint. If you are good with an exato (sp?) then go for it, but my twitching eliminates that almost entirely. Glass cutters work well with a little practice. different strokes for different folks!
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Old 10-10-2004, 02:06 PM
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The glass cutter is a great idea. I wonder if that would work for vinyl graphis too? I make my own custom graphics from vinyl and sometimes there's touchup after it's all laid down.
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Old 10-10-2004, 04:53 PM
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Glass cutters work on vinyl as well, in fact I know of graphics done entirely by hand. Oh, and lots of caffiene and nicotine (one keeps you going, one stops you shaking).
The random uses of some things, you know?
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Old 10-10-2004, 07:34 PM
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Make sure that when you prep your car for the single stage paint you use the correct solvent to clean the panel I cant tell you how over looked cleaning the panel is specially when painting flames. Some people make the mistake of using Wax and grease remover instead of Pre paint this can make the difference bewteen a good flame job and a complete disaster. Hope this was helpfull and good luck
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Old 10-11-2004, 02:09 AM
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Mike,

Have you thought about using a clear coat with a flattening agent? That way you can bury the edge lines with the clear. Sand it to a smooth surface so that there is no ridge on the pinstripes. I've never used a flattening agent so I don't know if this is feasible. Any insight guys?

As far as cutting the tape, I just layed out my flames last week. What worked best for me was a 1/2" squared off exacto blade. I lay the tape down past where I want the edge. Lay the blade down on the tape where I want the edge, then pull the extra tape back over the blade. That way there is no blade contact with the basecoat.
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:05 AM
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Mag, that's what I've always done when just laying out taped pinstripe flames too. Just set the blade on the vinyl and pull the tape up and the blade will cut it.
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Old 10-11-2004, 09:39 AM
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hi, there is really no reson to use flattening agent. if you want to bury any kind of graphics just clear over them then block sand it smooth with some 400, being careful not to burn through and then clearcoat again.

if you are cutting with an exacto, its not the end of the world if the blade goes into the layers underneath, you just dont want to score it down to the bare metal. you will be running the blade on the edge of the graphic anyway so its not like it will be seen. if you keep a new, sharp blade its pretty easy to get the feel of it and not score the surface.

i apologize.... i just read the first post again and noticed it was a flat finish in which case, if you want everything burried then clear with regular clear, block sand smooth then clear again with the flattener added. you really need to spray test panels when using flattener to be sure you have the right effect.

Last edited by mrcleanr6; 10-11-2004 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 10-11-2004, 10:42 AM
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One trick to keep exactos sharp is a pop can.
Aluminum will sharpen the blade, just use it like a sharpening stone. I also stab the can a few times, not sure wether it helps with the sharpness or the irritation
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Old 10-14-2004, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vick
Make sure that when you prep your car for the single stage paint you use the correct solvent to clean the panel I cant tell you how over looked cleaning the panel is specially when painting flames. Some people make the mistake of using Wax and grease remover instead of Pre paint this can make the difference bewteen a good flame job and a complete disaster. Hope this was helpfull and good luck
G'day Vick,, whats pre paint ?

Simo
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