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10-31-2004, 10:25 PM
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Pipe Bender Question
Can somebody explain how to use a hydraulic pipe bender. I try using my pipe bender to bend exhaust pipe it keep on crushing the pipe i don't understand .The pipe bender i have is a 16 ton hydraulic pipe bender and it did'nt come with direction.
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10-31-2004, 10:39 PM
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Re: Pipe Bender Question
Quote:
Exhaust tube die is a different shape to keep the tube from buckling because of it's thin wall construction.
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10-31-2004, 10:50 PM
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pipe bender question
that what i have it come with various die i keeps crushing the pipe .I order i off ebay
here a picture of it.do you put the whole pipe in or do you slow work the pipe to bender o your angle. [http://static.zoovy.com/img/shopsbs/-/12pipe] Last edited by silm man; 11-01-2004 at 05:08 AM.
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11-01-2004, 07:00 AM
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Pro70Z28 is right. From the picture what you have appears to be a pipe bender. What you need is a tubing bender, or at least tube bending dies. The outside diameter of the exhaust tube you are trying to bend is different than the outside dimension of the pipe meant to be bent in that bender.
I think no matter what you do, the dies you have now are going to crush or kink the pipe.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
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11-01-2004, 07:30 AM
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Take your exhaust to a local shop and have it mandrel bent
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11-01-2004, 07:49 AM
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I have never tried it, but I have heard that if you fill the tubing with sand and cap the ends it is supposed to keep it from kinking while you are bending it. I have the same bender/kinker and it only works on pipe.
John
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11-02-2004, 06:24 AM
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Yes, I've been told the sand trick works very well. Don't try to weld off the ends (could be dangerous). Just stuff with rags. I wouldn't pack it solid the first time. Let us know how it works. I'm very curious.
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11-03-2004, 08:26 AM
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I don't know if the sand trick works for tubing of that size, but I've used sand to bend fuel lines and trans coolant lines in a pinch. I even have several antique "automotive engineering" and aircraft maintenance books (30's) that mention it. (one also mentions brazing repairs on a fuel tank so I wouldn't take it as gospel)
proper bending of exhaust tubing requires a mandrel bender (dies on both the inside and outside of the bend) in most cases, you will fare better going to a muffler shop and having them bend up your system. It will save you lots of time and money.
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11-03-2004, 08:41 AM
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Not many exhaust shops that I am aware of have a mandrel tube bender unless they do a lot of hot rod custom work. If you are bending exhaust pipe of 2 1/4" or larger with a regular exhaust tubing bender there is no way to avoid crimping it. I had my exhaust on my 34 done at a local Meineke shop with 2 1/4" pipe, but I supplied mandrel bends that I purchased from J.C. Whitney. They were able to make small angle bends in the 2 1/4" pipe without excessive crimping. I used the mandrel bends over the rear axle, the tail pipes and the drop down from the headers. I had two 180's and six 90's and they worked out fine.
Vince
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11-06-2004, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Personally, I don't recommend this procedure. And what has this got to do with bending tubing?
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11-06-2004, 07:53 AM
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Just to follow up on this problem...has anyone successfully made their own die that would fit in this "pipe bender" but was the right diameter for "tubing". The idea would be to use the same hydraulics (jack and framework) but substitute in the right size. I have a similar pipe bender and have been thinking about making a die to bend 1" square tubing. Seems to me you could bend 1/8" x 1" wide strap steel into the radius you want and then weld flat plate steel to each side of the strap steel radius to keep it rigid enough to bend around it. Just wondering if anyone has tried something like that.
__________________
Always learning...and sharing what I've learned. The Scratch-Built Hot Rod.
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11-07-2004, 06:57 AM
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Cboy, do you mean an extra pair of dies to fit the outside of the bend and slide around as the bend is formed? If so, you might be on to something. I've used a thinwall tubing bender like that. You'd have to have room for the straps to come down to the pivot point(s) and I'm not certain removal of the flanges on the original die would give you enough room. Might be better to just widen the whole thing to provide room. Ideally, you'd want the pivot point for the two new dies to be at the center of the bend, though that wasn't the case for the bender I used and it worked fine. You'd have to use a hammer to tap the outside dies around as you formed the bend. I'd think that'd work pretty well!
Back to the use of sand: It occurred to me that a better filler might be baking flour. (Those who read my post on the use of flour as a filler in plastic resin will now be convinced that I own stock in Pillsbury.) I would think the flour would be a lot more slippery than sand. Or, just a little flour added to the sand might be the answer.
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11-07-2004, 01:47 PM
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I've heard that you can fill the tube with sand, block the end, heat up the tube really good and bend it that way. It wont be pro by any means but it'll save you money. Anyone can confirm this?
Mike
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11-07-2004, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
You don't heat up gas in a closed container. This would be especially dangerous if the sand had a high moisture content. Now, if you left one end open and/or drilled some small holes to be welded shut later, that's another matter.
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11-11-2004, 08:32 AM
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made mine from mandrel bends from summit racing, it was ok - shops wanted a grand to do it and it's for an off road vehicle so..
 ended up having a shop redo the back section, they did a killer job - I'll probably go back to them for my next job.. 
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