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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2006, 09:46 PM
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I'm retired, and I forget that people have jobs and familys, anyway, I understand.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2006, 01:45 AM
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Mine almost turned out like the one on the bottom page of http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

I followed the Sharpe diagrams going away from the tank and the chart like the one on TP tools.

My bare bones small bang for the buck 15 amp US General 60 gallon. Around 12 cfm at 90 psi. Next place I'll have the tank sheltered somewhere quiet. And hopefully a quality 2 stage to replace it with someday.

I used a $20 Northern Tool hydraulic hose for the 3/4" 3 ft flex hose to the wall, then a 3/4" shut off valve at the end instead of on the tank because less fittings could to use that way. Then to 3/4" L copper in 10 ft sticks, some already with a slight curve, and used the curve when going away from the tank at an angle. I believe I got it to go down 8"-10" every 18 ft with the flexible copper. Positioned the pipes first, then sweated them.

Also made an EZ drain with a 1/4 ball valve.





Drop 1. Misc/Engine bay drop with short hose, no filter. Was bored and used a craftsman reg with the extra stuff I had laying around after the other drops were already done.



Drop 2. Prep drop. HF 40 micron air filter reg. 40 ft away from tank. I put a few oil drops in the air tools just before each time in use. Also a backup for the paint drop I suppose.



Drop 3. Paint/minor sandblasting drop. 65 feet away from tank, Sharpe F88 5 micron filter. Used some 1/2" copper up and around to the 25 ft retractable hose after the reg. And got rid of all those small fittings on the regs to prevent possible air flow restriction.


I did a spray gun test with an Air Gunsa AZ3 hte hvlp. 13.8 cfm at 30 psi inlet. Set gun at full fan and fluid control with 35 psi at the gun reg for a full 2 minutes and it kept up. Pressure also at the tank didn't go up or down. Motor stayed on constantly with trigger fully pulled. Just barely enough.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2006, 07:02 AM
jor jor is offline
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Really nice job on the copper, Danny. I was going to go copper but it was too expensive compared to black iron. I think your decision to go with 3/4" was the right one too. I struggled with that but ended up with 1/2"
jor

Last edited by jor; 12-07-2006 at 07:32 AM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2006, 11:47 PM
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Danny, i just looked your set up over really good for the second time. I would be proud to tell anybody I had a setup like that, very nice.

Rob
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2006, 01:47 PM
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Thanks so much Jor & Rob Right when I joined here, I started to like how you folks take it pretty serious with these air shops. Then I began to get allot more into it and feel really lucky sometimes I found this place.

This whole air shop thing is as rewarding as my first engine swap I did, took me about about a year to do when the fund$ allowed me to keep going, even though it feels like I'm still stuck sometimes.lol Its already paid for itself from the plumbing around the house it has taught me.

Started off getting the copper a few sticks at a time on a low "whenever I had a few bucks to spare" budget, but it was around $12 for a 10 ft L-type stick. Now its more then doubled in price over here. I'd definitely look for something else now, like galvanized or black iron.
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Old 12-08-2006, 04:16 PM
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Copper is the way to go

But you should have gone with a Viega PROPRESS fittting system the system presses together instead of sweating all those fittings should be available through your local plumbing supply house.........
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2006, 05:56 PM
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Danny, I emailed my buddy in michigan and had him take a look at your air lines, he's going to pattern his after yours.

He's one of these hands on guys like you, likes the challenge of making things for himself. Pictures of different ways to do things, being creative, thats what keeps me on here.

He was pretty impressed with it, but he has to learn how to work with copper, I told him if he gets in a bind, just post it on here.

Rob
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2006, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35 Pontiac
But you should have gone with a Viega PROPRESS fittting system the system presses together instead of sweating all those fittings should be available through your local plumbing supply house.........
I never knew about that, really appreciate the tip. Wish I knew there was another way to do the copper. Sweating for the first time was pretty agonizing at first, was worried there would be over a dozen leaks. Also getting them sweated before putting them up can throw off the angle quite a bit having to redo them a few places when doing the first few pipes. Like Jor mentioned, it turned out to be a quite a fun project. Didn't mind the sweating but wish I'd known about the Viega ProPress. Thanks again for mentioning about that, will definitely look into it when doing this again.

Checked for leaks with some soapy water in a spray bottle and was surprised to only find one leak. It was the very first one I sweated too. Bunch of leaks though in the threaded fittings at the tank. Heard a tip to use Teflon tape and Rector seal on the big fittings.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2006, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robs ss
Danny, I emailed my buddy in michigan and had him take a look at your air lines, he's going to pattern his after yours.

He's one of these hands on guys like you, likes the challenge of making things for himself. Pictures of different ways to do things, being creative, thats what keeps me on here.

He was pretty impressed with it, but he has to learn how to work with copper, I told him if he gets in a bind, just post it on here.

Rob
Thats great to hear Rob & thanks so much for mentioning about mine Happy to have helped somehow, I found some old pics throughout the process that may help with some ideas and small stuff. Would love to hear more about other setups too. hth

I used some L brackets that used to be off of an old basketball hoop. Made a few cuts on one to support the Sharpe filter. And used 2 to hold the retractable hose above it.



Also used the same brackets to the HF filter and 2 to hold the prep drop hose.



Found a pic before doing drop 1 and learned about spacers to help the pipes cool from seeing other setups. Noticed they also helped allot when sweating the pipes.


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Old 12-12-2006, 09:29 AM
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I have one question about piping with black pipe. What is the best sealer to use for the threads. The yellow teflon tape or that green stuff I see on gas lines a lot. The green stuff says not to use it one oxygen but I don't know. Thanks for you input in advance.

JIM
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2006, 10:58 AM
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You can use teflon pipe tape or regular pipe dope with a brush, the regular with a brush worked better for stopping leaks on the unions for me.

Rob

There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2006, 01:27 PM
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Cool thanks for the help Rob.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2006, 01:53 PM
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before you put the dope on the threads you can buy a roll of spoolwick. just looks like a spool of thread wrap this on the threads put on the dope or teflon paste and you will definately not have any leaks.

as far as the propress system mentioned it will avoid all soldering but the downside is the fittings are like 20x the price of solder fittings and the tool runs around $1500

any kind of teflon paste is fine .the concern is dealing with pure oxygen or medical gases compressed air is fine.

Plumbing is how i make my living and i do own this the propress system for up to 2" copper anyone who would be interested in piping there shop with this in the south florida area can gladly email me and i can try and help you with the job
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2006, 03:02 PM
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Wow, that costs allot, nice tools usually do though. For a plumber, a definite must have on the tool list. Thanks for the info on the Propress, pretty interesting.
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:34 PM
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Thanks for the info Wagon. I was wondering what it meant about not to use with Oxygen. Thanks again
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