Hotrodders Bulletin Board Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Home · Bulletin Board · Project Journals · Tech Article Wiki · Knowledge Base · Photo Gallery · Classifieds · Company Reviews · Calendar · T-Shirts


Thanks!Thanks Streetbeasts lawsuit donors!thanks
See the full list of donors helping to protect free speech.

We're winning the case!
Get the latest update on the lawsuit, see the original lawsuit post, or read the article Streetbeasts doesn't want you to see.

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts
Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help > Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 11-03-2007, 09:51 AM
2NDChance's Avatar
2NDChance 2NDChance is offline
Newbie-but learning
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Minneapolis MN-rust bites
Age: 37
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Piston VS. Valve

i,m sure someone has morer smarts about valve to piston clearance. i need some help, and advice- when do i worry about clearance between the two. my new hyd. roller weighs in at .533/.548 lift 236/242 dur. i've installed the correct springs per specs. the heads are torqued down already and i would like to leave it that way (52.99gasket+soreback=sucks). 400 block with 5.565 rods
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-03-2007, 10:03 AM
machine shop tom machine shop tom is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 50
Posts: 2,968
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2NDChance
i,m sure someone has morer smarts about valve to piston clearance. i need some help, and advice- when do i worry about clearance between the two. my new hyd. roller weighs in at .533/.548 lift 236/242 dur. i've installed the correct springs per specs. the heads are torqued down already and i would like to leave it that way (52.99gasket+soreback=sucks). 400 block with 5.565 rods


You should have no problems with piston-to-valve interference.

tom
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-03-2007, 10:13 AM
ernkazern ernkazern is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 725
Wiki Edits: 0

There's a hundred ways to skin a rabbit, but I think I'd start by pulling out the spark plugs and turning the engine over by hand. If it stops when you turn it over you have a serious clearance problem and you'll need to start pulling the engine apart. If it doesn't lock up you could call the people you bought the cam from, tell them what your combination is and they should know if there's potential for a problem. They'd probably want to know the deck clearance and the shape of the piston crowns, ie, flat, dished, raised and by how much if they're dished or raised. They'd probably also want to know if you installed the cam straight up or if you retarded or advanced it when you installed it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-03-2007, 10:38 AM
BUFFALOBILLPATRICK BUFFALOBILLPATRICK is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stonewall Colorado
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

F-BIRD'88 had a good tip on this. WAY easier than the clay method.

Pick a cylinder in each head, tighten all 4 rocker nuts 2 turns past zero lash. Turn motor over very slowly by hand to feel for any bind.

BBP
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-03-2007, 11:04 AM
machine shop tom machine shop tom is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 50
Posts: 2,968
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
F-BIRD'88 had a good tip on this. WAY easier than the clay method.

Pick a cylinder in each head, tighten all 4 rocker nuts 2 turns past zero lash. Turn motor over very slowly by hand to feel for any bind.

BBP


That doesn't tell you anything. It's just telling you that you have no interference. It doesn't tell you if you are .002" from interference or .200" from it. You can actually have interference and not feel it. The best way to tell what you actual P-V clearance is to clay it.

tom
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:00 PM
BUFFALOBILLPATRICK BUFFALOBILLPATRICK is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stonewall Colorado
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

Don't it tell you that at normal rocker adjustment, that the valves don't contact the piston?

BBP
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:00 PM
2NDChance's Avatar
2NDChance 2NDChance is offline
Newbie-but learning
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Minneapolis MN-rust bites
Age: 37
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Piston VS. Valve

thanks for the help everyone! the combo stands as a 400 2 bolt studded align honed 10/10 cut crank(stock) rebuilt 5.565 rods w/arp bolts hyd. roller at(i'm looking at card) .533/.548 lift 234 242 at.050 rpm airgap 750 annular speed cam installed strait up- oohh pistons are kb hyper 18 cc dished w/valve reliefs - everything is balanced
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-03-2007, 12:06 PM
2NDChance's Avatar
2NDChance 2NDChance is offline
Newbie-but learning
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Minneapolis MN-rust bites
Age: 37
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Piston VS. Valve

another thought- could i get the lifter at full lift w/checker spring, get piston tdc and push the valve stem down until it hits the piston- then measure the difference? i know the lifter must not be allowed to "pump down".
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-03-2007, 04:48 PM
BUFFALOBILLPATRICK BUFFALOBILLPATRICK is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stonewall Colorado
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

With rocker studs of 24 tpi, 2 turns = 1/12" (0.08333') with 1.5:1 rockers, you have the valves .125" further open than 0 lash.

This seems like a meaningful clearance to check for?

BBP
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-03-2007, 05:16 PM
machine shop tom machine shop tom is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 50
Posts: 2,968
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
With rocker studs of 24 tpi, 2 turns = 1/12" (0.08333') with 1.5:1 rockers, you have the valves .125" further open than 0 lash.

This seems like a meaningful clearance to check for?

BBP


You can do it any way you like. As someone who has to stand behind my work and to insure that my customer has a quality build, I use clay so I can tell him EXACTLY what he has. That is called documentation. Not guessing or estimating.

tom
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-03-2007, 05:42 PM
BUFFALOBILLPATRICK BUFFALOBILLPATRICK is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stonewall Colorado
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

With the clay method, How much time does the head torquing & then taking them off take? Do you throw away the head gaskets each time or reuse them?

BBP
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-03-2007, 06:24 PM
machine shop tom machine shop tom is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 50
Posts: 2,968
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
With the clay method, How much time does the head torquing & then taking them off take? Do you throw away the head gaskets each time or reuse them?

BBP


With the clay method, you don't torque the head down. You use 4 head bolts to hold the head in place. You don't have to use a head gasket either. You just add the compressed gasket thickness to the value you get from the clay.

tom
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-04-2007, 12:16 AM
Blazin72's Avatar
Blazin72 Blazin72 is offline
Realign your connecting rods..
 
Blazin72's barnstar
Wiki editor
Last wiki edit: Rearend removal
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Shelton, WA
Age: 27
Posts: 2,202
Wiki Edits: 19

Tom, what about bringing the piston to TDC, putting a dial indicator on the valve and gently depressing it manually until it comes into contact with the piston then subtracting the valve lift? I've never actually done it this way but I've always been curious.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-04-2007, 07:44 AM
ernkazern ernkazern is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 725
Wiki Edits: 0

The valves aren't opened all the way with the piston at TDC are they? The intake valve definitely wouldn't be and I thought the exhaust valve wasn't either. The clay method is the best way and the way good engine builders measure the clearence.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-04-2007, 09:24 AM
machine shop tom machine shop tom is offline
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 50
Posts: 2,968
Wiki Edits: 0

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin72
Tom, what about bringing the piston to TDC, putting a dial indicator on the valve and gently depressing it manually until it comes into contact with the piston then subtracting the valve lift? I've never actually done it this way but I've always been curious.


Unless the valve timing is way out of whack, the valves are not open at the same time the piston is at TDC. That is why doing it as you describe doesn't give you a real idea of how close the piston-to-valve relationship is while the engine is running.

tom
Reply With Quote
Reply
Back to top


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads for: "Piston VS. Valve"
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
valve springs derek32303 Engine 2 01-16-2006 10:03 PM
Piston Oilers Fastnuf Engine 13 04-08-2005 09:25 AM
flycut piston valve reliefs groundrail General Rodding Tech 1 12-27-2004 11:49 AM
valve to piston clearance Stinky Engine 5 06-13-2003 11:32 PM
Residual Pressure Valve?? Dave E Shank Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 12-27-2002 07:12 PM



Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 2.3.2 © 2005, Crawlability, Inc.
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:40 AM.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2009. All Rights Reserved.