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Old 11-10-2011, 08:11 PM
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please help!!! 327/powerglide keep cracking starters

Hey guys thought I had it figured out ! I have a 1966small chevy impala 327original with an aluminum powerglide all original and I can't keep a starter on it!!!! First the genius previous owner put the flywheel on backwards! Ok easy fix so I flipped it and bolted up the starter.... first crank... CRACK!!!!! ok brain fart it needs shimmed.... back to the autoparts... new starter shimmed compleatly to spec...two or three turns... CRACK!!!!! Ok cheap aluminum starter back to the autoparts ... CAST IRON STARTER!!! that's the ticket!! Three or four turns...... CRACK!!!!! WHAT THE HECK!!!!!! I know im shimming it correctly taking the solenoid off manually moving the bendex into the flywheel ... perfect fit... bent flywheel?? Ok with bendex against the flywheel turn manually... no pressure or movement against the starter! No chipped teeth doesn't seem to be bent in anyway??? Im at a loss!! Any ideas I know it sounds crazy but its even more mind boggling in person!! Any ideas? And I know other not the motor because when you do get a good turn on it it fires right up and runs great! Thanks guys

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Old 11-10-2011, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr19661966
Hey guys thought I had it figured out ! I have a 1966small chevy impala 327original with an aluminum powerglide all original and I can't keep a starter on it!!!! First the genius previous owner put the flywheel on backwards! Ok easy fix so I flipped it and bolted up the starter.... first crank... CRACK!!!!! ok brain fart it needs shimmed.... back to the autoparts... new starter shimmed compleatly to spec...two or three turns... CRACK!!!!! Ok cheap aluminum starter back to the autoparts ... CAST IRON STARTER!!! that's the ticket!! Three or four turns...... CRACK!!!!! WHAT THE HECK!!!!!! I know im shimming it correctly taking the solenoid off manually moving the bendex into the flywheel ... perfect fit... bent flywheel?? Ok with bendex against the flywheel turn manually... no pressure or movement against the starter! No chipped teeth doesn't seem to be bent in anyway??? Im at a loss!! Any ideas I know it sounds crazy but its even more mind boggling in person!! Any ideas? And I know other not the motor because when you do get a good turn on it it fires right up and runs great! Thanks guys
This happens most often on high compression engines and/or excessive initial timing. Try putting a brace on the rear of the starter that bolts to the block. Summit and others have them.

Another thing you can do is use an ignition interrupter that allows the starter to spin the engine BEFORE the ignition is energized. You still should have a brace.
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:58 PM
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327 Starter

Your on the right track with the shims and you're probably inserting full shim to get clearence. The shim pack should have 3 different thicknesses. Cut the smallest shim, .020, in half and put it on the outside bolt location. The problem isn't compression. Broken noses are clearence issue due to aftermarket casting/machineing tolerance differences over stock. Good luck!
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:09 AM
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The engine isn't "kicking back" is it?

We had a little Blazer with a 4.3 that was cracking starters and/or damaging ring gears.

Finally tracked it down to carbon-tracking inside the cap.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:18 AM
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Check the mechanical advance in the distributor. If it`s stuck open it can cause kick back or starter drag. Next is check the grounds. The ground coming off the battery should be connected to the block. Lastly when you install the starter you must make sure you have the correct bolts. The correct bolts have shoulders on them and they have a knurled section under the shoulder. There can be no washers used on the bolts. The shoulder on the bolts job is to help assure the starter does not move, when it moves is when it binds and cracks it. Next when installing you must torque the bolts to 35 ft lbs. If you just snug them in the starter will move which binds it and the crack reappears.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:35 AM
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You can all also try half shims. On the Chevelle I used two and a half, but every motor is diffrent, where on most i never had to use any.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70chevelless
You can all also try half shims. On the Chevelle I used two and a half, but every motor is diffrent, where on most i never had to use any.
I believe that the "standard" measurement is the use of a 1/8" drill bit between the drive gear and the flex-plate.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:57 PM
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I was having the same problem, going thru starters every 6-8 weeks on average on my 66... finally bit the bullet and bought a summit mini starter for about 110 bucks, been running it for a year and a half with no problems... plus you can rotate it for clearance or heat issues, eliminated my hot no start problem too... well worth it in my opinion
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:07 AM
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Ok under closer inspection where the plexplate bolts to the torque converter it seems like it needs shimmed??? When unbolted it looks like there is about an 1/8 in gap between the converter and flexplate... what am I missing???
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:45 PM
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No, the 1/8" gap between the flexplate and torque converter is fine (as long as its not much more than that). If you try to shim it tight, you can grenade the front pump gears on your glide. It seems to me that the starter problems you are having are caused by either a- incorrect starter alignment requiring proper shimming, b- too much heat causing structural failure of the aluminum cone on the starter, or c- too much movement of the starter necessitating a brace. Either way, I would still recommend switching to a mini starter... the extra 40-50 bucks you spend will buy you peace of mind and save you the time and hassle of constantly swapping out autozone specials.
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Old 11-12-2011, 04:12 PM
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My stock starter just doesn't have enough torque to turn my engine over without draining my battery. So, I ordered the 1.6 horse power mini starter from summit. I believe that a higher than stock compression can cause serious problems with stock starters; Even if it doesn't move and crack you can end up with other problems just as easy.



Enjoy.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:36 AM
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Im out

I found some where else to go
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70chevelless
I found some where else to go
I don't know why you chose to announce this. MANY guys come and go, on a daily basis. Here today- gone tomorrow. It's the nature of the beast.

In your case, I've noticed you've had problems of one kind or another since day one. If it's not one thing it's something else. I hope where ever you've found to go (and no, I AM NOT asking where this is!!!!!) is much more to your liking. Just don't forget to use the spell checker.

So, farewell. Live long and prosper. We'll still be here when you need us.
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70chevelless
I found some where else to go
That's just weird?
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:52 PM
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Do you have the right starter bolts that have the knurl on the outside of the shank?
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