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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixshooter45 View Post
Great! All the dual quad turnkey "kits" I see have the Air-Gap manifold. I'm sorry to run you around, but if you have a chance could you please post the part number of the correct high rise manifold that I would need? All I'm finding is a lo-profile model and a tunnel ram model.
Thank you!
Yeah, no problem. The following assumes NON-VORTEC, conventional Gen I Chevy heads. There is a different part number for using VORTEC style heads.

Edelbrock dual quad high-rise manifolds for use with conventional Gen I heads......
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold (non-EGR) #7525*
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold w/ Polished finish (non-EGR) #75251*
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold w/ EnduraShine finish (non-EGR) #75254*

Carburetor Recommendations: Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS #1803 and #1804, 500 cfm (see Carbs & Accessories).

Installation Notes: H.E.I. will NOT fit. Recommended intake gasket: Edelbrock #7201.
Manifold height: A-4.57", B-4.92" see A/B Measurements. Port exit dimensions: 1.16" x 1.92". Carb center-to-center distance: 6-7/16".

Use a small diameter distributor cap model of distributor, the large diameter HEI cap will not clear the intake manifold. Here's an example of a locked out distributor, if you wanted to go that way....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...make/chevrolet
Here's the rest of the list.....points, magnetic, hall effect, whatever your choice, as long as it's a small diameter cap that will clear the intake manifold.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-socket?page=3

WARNING:
Coordinate the distributor shaft drive gear material that you use with the camshaft manufacturer's camshaft material. The distributor drive gear must be compatible with the camshaft drive gear. Howards makes such a gear.

If you decide to use the locked out distributor, you will want to install some means of cutting voltage to the coil while you are turning the crank to start the motor. There are electronic devices which will accomplish this, or you can cut into the coil wire and interrupt the voltage with a momentary push-button switch that will kill coil voltage while you are starting the motor. If full advance is available to the motor on cranking, the crank will push back against the starter.

Buy 2 sets of intake gaskets. When you finally torque the heads on for good, install and torque down the intake manifold. Let it sit overnight. Next day, pull the intake manifold and inspect the intake gaskets for being pinched all the way around each and every port. If the port is open to atmosphere on the top, you'll have a vacuum leak and you'll have to re-seal. If the port is open to the crankcase on the bottom side of the port, then that cylinder and any other cylinders that are gapped open on the bottom will be pulling in oily crankcase vapor on the intake stroke. If, on close visual inspection, you can determine that the ports are being pinched shut tightly all the way around each and every port, put the manifold back on with the other set of gaskets that you bought and feel good about the motor sealing up. If any of the ports do not seal up all the way around, then there is some machine work in your future. You can determine where to cut and how much to cut by mapping the pinched intake gasket. Measure the thicknesses with a dial caliper and write them down right away, before the gasket can relax.

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Last edited by techinspector1; 05-15-2013 at 05:48 PM.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Yeah, no problem. The following assumes NON-VORTEC, conventional Gen I Chevy heads. There is a different part number for using VORTEC style heads.

Edelbrock dual quad high-rise manifolds for use with conventional Gen I heads......
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold (non-EGR) #7525*
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold w/ Polished finish (non-EGR) #75251*
RPM Air-Gap Dual-Quad manifold w/ EnduraShine finish (non-EGR) #75254*

Carburetor Recommendations: Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS #1803 and #1804, 500 cfm (see Carbs & Accessories).

Installation Notes: H.E.I. will NOT fit. Recommended intake gasket: Edelbrock #7201. Manifold height: A-4.57", B-4.92" see A/B Measurements. Port exit dimensions: 1.16" x 1.92". Carb center-to-center distance: 6-7/16".

Use a small diameter distributor cap model of distributor, the large diameter HEI cap will not clear the intake manifold. Here's an example of a locked out distributor, if you wanted to go that way....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...make/chevrolet
Here's the rest of the list.....points, magnetic, hall effect, whatever your choice, as long as it's a small diameter cap that will clear the intake manifold.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-socket?page=3

WARNING:
Coordinate the distributor shaft drive gear material that you use with the camshaft manufacturer's camshaft material. The distributor drive gear must be compatible with the camshaft drive gear. Howards makes such a gear.

If you decide to use the locked out distributor, you will want to install some means of cutting voltage to the coil while you are turning the crank to start the motor. There are electronic devices which will accomplish this, or you can cut into the coil wire and interrupt the voltage with a momentary push-button switch that will kill coil voltage while you are starting the motor. If full advance is available to the motor on cranking, the crank will push back against the starter.


Great, thank you very much! I think I got confused and thought I should be looking for something other than the Air-Gap manifold. In that case, I can just go with one of the kits that includes the manifold, carbs, linkage etc all in one.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:57 PM
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TI you put too much effort into your posts, if I didn't know any better I'd think you're getting paid for them! I'm sure you've done a hell of a lot of good for a lot of board members.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixshooter45 View Post
Great, thank you very much! I think I got confused and thought I should be looking for something other than the Air-Gap manifold. In that case, I can just go with one of the kits that includes the manifold, carbs, linkage etc all in one.
The "high-rise" part of it is where the value is. I wouldn't give you 2 cents for the "air-gap" part of it.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
TI you put too much effort into your posts, if I didn't know any better I'd think you're getting paid for them! I'm sure you've done a hell of a lot of good for a lot of board members.
Well, I'm retired and every once in a while, I have the time that's required to do it properly. This has been a very good thread and I thank you for your kind words.

It makes me feel good to be able to pass on valid, useable information to those who might not know where to look for it.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 06:04 PM
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TI you put too much effort into your posts, if I didn't know any better I'd think you're getting paid for them! I'm sure you've done a hell of a lot of good for a lot of board members.
I can vouch for that! Techinspector and you other gentlemen have essentially built my engine for me during this thread. A huge thank you to everybody who has contributed and put up with my beginner questions.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:05 PM
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The "high-rise" part of it is where the value is. I wouldn't give you 2 cents for the "air-gap" part of it.
Now I got ya!
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:23 PM
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Also, should this combo be OK on pump gas? Or would I need to get the CR down a little? 90 octane is the normal "Premium" in my area, although I'm always on the lookout for better gas. Elevation is 3200'.

Last edited by Sixshooter45; 05-15-2013 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:58 PM
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Also, should this combo be OK on pump gas? Or would I need to get the CR down a little? 90 octane is the normal "Premium" in my area, although I'm always on the lookout for better gas. Elevation is 3200'.
If you could drop the SCR half a point to 10.0:1, how would you do it?
If you left it at 10.5:1 and it knocked on bad fuel, would you add a water/alcohol injection unit to stop detonation?
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:59 PM
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make sure you do some math before you buy the parts:
The dyno sim difference between the cam I chose and the cam AP72 chose made different amounts of power at different RPMs,,,but,,,
SAME COSTS,,,
you decide how the engine should perform and when it should do it,,,
with the bigger cam and 3k TC,how long do you think the more powerful engine will take to rev past 4k?You will need a rev limiter,,,

the other combo with 2 carbs,,,needs 2 carbs and a more expensive manifold.
You can also consider a bigger cam than I said or a smaller cam than what AP72 said. either way 500 ish HP is in your future.
It will be a lot of fun to drive
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
If you could drop the SCR half a point to 10.0:1, how would you do it?
If you left it at 10.5:1 and it knocked on bad fuel, would you add a water/alcohol injection unit to stop detonation?
Without changing heads or pistons, could I run a thicker gasket??
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
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Without changing heads or pistons, could I run a thicker gasket??
no, a thicker gasket would be a terrible idea. Follow Techs advice about decking the block and we can play around with cam timing to deal with the staic CR ,,,a little bit.( a bigger cam can tame CR thats a little too high)
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:01 AM
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I really need to know the answers to the questions I asked you in post #4. All of what we have done has been fun, but it is not necessarily carved in stone. The very first thing I need to know is the actual static compression ratio and to figure it for myself, I need the info asked for. If it is indeed 10.5:1 and all you have is 90 octane fuel, we may need to use a little hotter cam timing, closing the intake valve later and relieving some of the cylinder pressure to prevent detonation on pump gas.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:13 AM
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I really need to know the answers to the questions I asked you in post #4. All of what we have done has been fun, but it is not necessarily carved in stone. The very first thing I need to know is the actual static compression ratio and to figure it for myself, I need the info asked for. If it is indeed 10.5:1 and all you have is 90 octane fuel, we may need to use a little hotter cam timing, closing the intake valve later and relieving some of the cylinder pressure to prevent detonation on pump gas.

10-4. I'll get that info ASAP!
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:39 PM
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Ok, so a little update. I went over to my brothers shop this afternoon and we started to pull apart the engine and clean some stuff up. Come to find out, some of the info I got from the shop that built the engine was wrong. The heads are PC3002 which in my quick search shows a Procomp 190cc/64cc. Doesn't look like they are too highly thought of.

The cam was not what I was told either. It's a solid Isky 547-B #201549. Which evidently is a oval track cam. But it's obviously not what I'm looking for. Roller rockers are blue in color with nothing stamped on them whatsoever.

All I could see of the pistons from the underside of the engine read SRP 40. H beam rods read 8551 S.

Haven't yet gathered any more info to figure the compression ratio as Techinspector has requested. So strictly parts wise, any idea what I'm working with here?

Last edited by Sixshooter45; 05-16-2013 at 09:08 PM.
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