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Old 05-14-2013, 04:34 PM
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Please help me pick a cam, intake, and carb- 383 Stroker

Hello All, I'm looking for some help on finishing my motor that is about to be dropped in a '53 Chevy. I'm a newbie some please bear with me! The car will be just be a street toy, with maybe a few passes at the track for fun once in a while. Here's a few specs...

-1953 Chevy
-3.73 gear, 275/60/15 tire
-TH400 with 3000 stall converter

Engine specs currently (hasnt been ran since it was built)are as follows...

-383 Stroker 10.5:1
- Aluminum Heads, 200 runners/64cc
- Scat crank, forged rods and pistons
- Current cam is Melling 22404
-(Specs at 0.50 cam lift)
Duration- 266 exhaust, 258 intake
Gross valve Lift- .540 intake/.558 exhaust
Cam lift- .372 exhaust/.360 intake
Valve lash @ .026

So, I've been told before this solid cam will be too extreme for street use and require a really high stall, so I don't mind going with something else that will make power at a little lower RPM. But what? I would like this engine to be pretty rowdy as its just a toy and will not be daily driven. A heavy lope is good in my book too if the engine can back up its sound!

Intake, been looking at performer RPM and RPM air gap. (Although I know this will depend on cam choice as well). So any help on the intake as well as what carb to run is greatly appreciated!


As mentioned previously this car will just be a fun street rod, so a little radical is fine with me as long as its still streetable. And I would like to run the 3K stall that I have, but if it won't work for how this engine gets built I'm not opposed to changing it. The last thing I want is mis-matched parts!


Any advice on how to set this engine up would be great. Thanks again!

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Old 05-14-2013, 05:43 PM
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Run it as is. The RPM manifold is a good choice with the 3000 stall and mild 3.73's.

This cam likes full timing at idle. So Simply lock out the mechanical advance system
and set the locked timing to 34-36deg BTDC.
Vacuum advance can be retained and is recommended. Use ported vacuum and limit the max possible to 12deg.
Do not use less than a 750cfm carb. A HP style 750 holley would be best.

Can use a higher stall converter 9"-10" 4000 stall ...up to a 8" 5000 stall.
Can use more rear gear too 4.56's

The new Edelbrock Dual Quad RPM Air Gap 2X4 manifold and two Edelbrock 750cfm AFB's would be a lot of fun too. It will make very good power and torque on your motor. The 750's are not too big either on this dual quad dual plane manifold.

You 383 will breath deep and make serious power with the Dual Quad and Edelbrock 750 carbs.
The high hood line of the '53 chev allows you to play with carb spacers to good effect on this dual quad manifold.

Add a Edelbrock Dual carb Nitrous system (keep the 3.73's) and you will have a super street strip car.

Cold lash this cam about .004" tighter than the cam card "hot lash" spec.
It is a lot easier and more consistant.
The "3000 stall" converter may or may not be a bit too tight at idle with this cam.
I would try it as is, first. If it needs a looser converter and or you want a higher stall speed you can change it or have that converter modified to change the stall.
A 8" ATI "Tree Master" race converter is not too much.

The 3.73's are just right for nitrous. The RPM Dual Quads definatly add to the sex appeal and performance.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-14-2013 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:51 PM
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nice little roller hydraulic and 750 double pumper.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixshooter45 View Post
Hello All, I'm looking for some help on finishing my motor that is about to be dropped in a '53 Chevy. I'm a newbie some please bear with me! The car will be just be a street toy, with maybe a few passes at the track for fun once in a while. Here's a few specs...

-1953 Chevy
-3.73 gear, 275/60/15 tire
-TH400 with 3000 stall converter

Engine specs currently (hasnt been ran since it was built)are as follows...

-383 Stroker 10.5:1
- Aluminum Heads, 200 runners/64cc
- Scat crank, forged rods and pistons
- Current cam is Melling 22404
-(Specs at 0.50 cam lift)
Duration- 266 exhaust, 258 intake
Gross valve Lift- .540 intake/.558 exhaust
Cam lift- .372 exhaust/.360 intake
Valve lash @ .026

So, I've been told before this solid cam will be too extreme for street use and require a really high stall, so I don't mind going with something else that will make power at a little lower RPM. But what? I would like this engine to be pretty rowdy as its just a toy and will not be daily driven. A heavy lope is good in my book too if the engine can back up its sound!

Intake, been looking at performer RPM and RPM air gap. (Although I know this will depend on cam choice as well). So any help on the intake as well as what carb to run is greatly appreciated!


As mentioned previously this car will just be a fun street rod, so a little radical is fine with me as long as its still streetable. And I would like to run the 3K stall that I have, but if it won't work for how this engine gets built I'm not opposed to changing it. The last thing I want is mis-matched parts!


Any advice on how to set this engine up would be great. Thanks again!
Post the cylinder head manufacturer and head part number, along with the piston manufacturer and part number and I can run a Sim on the motor, trying different cams and different install numbers. What is the piston deck height and who made the head gasket, what part number? I like to run the static compression ratio for myself and will need the following info from you....
engine overbore
piston deck height (crown of piston to block deck with piston at TDC)
piston mfg and part number, need to know crown volume
combustion chamber volume, cyl head mfg and part number so I can find flow numbers to enter on the DynoSim software.
Head gasket mfg and part number
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:06 PM
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Thank you F-Bird! So, you think this cam could be easy enough to get along with on the street? I was wanting something that wouldn't be real boggy on the bottom end and from light to light, but it sounds like it would work. And plus, your combo sounds like a super cool setup!

Techinspector, unfortunately the motor is at my brothers shop right now. And I don't know any more specs off the top of my head other than what I have posted above. (I bought the motor already built). We are planning on tearing it down in a few days and cleaning it all up as it has been sitting in its shipping crate for a few years now gathering dust. So ill see if I can gather more information on it.

But thank you both for the replies and advice, keep it coming!
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:12 PM
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Melling 22404 flat-tappet, solid lifter mechanical camshaft, lash unknown.
CLASS IV. NOT CALIFORNIA COMPLIANT. NOT COMPUTER COMPATIBLE.
POWER RANGE 3700-7300 rpm's
Advertised duration 290/298
0.050" tappet lift duration 258/266
Valve lift 0.538"/0.556"
Intake centerline 99 degrees ATDC
Exhaust centerline 111 degrees BTDC
Lobe Displacement Angle 105 degrees
Intake opens 30 DBTDC
Intake closes 48 DABDC
Exhaust opens 64 DBBDC
Exhaust closes 22 DATDC
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Melling 22404 flat-tappet, solid lifter mechanical camshaft, lash unknown.
CLASS IV. NOT CALIFORNIA COMPLIANT. NOT COMPUTER COMPATIBLE.
POWER RANGE 3700-7300 rpm's
Advertised duration 290/298
0.050" tappet lift duration 258/266
Valve lift 0.538"/0.556"
Intake centerline 99 degrees ATDC
Exhaust centerline 111 degrees BTDC
Lobe Displacement Angle 105 degrees
Intake opens 30 DBTDC
Intake closes 48 DABDC
Exhaust opens 64 DBBDC
Exhaust closes 22 DATDC



That power range is what I'm concerned about. Seems pretty high for a street motor.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:22 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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The cam is way too big, it'll make a lot of noise but run slower. Honestly a tight lash solid cam in the 230s range will make that thing pull hard and give better street manners but it won't be as rowdy. Smaller cams can actually make you faster than going way too big, where you are now. You want your torque peak around 4000 and your power peak around 5800 for that stall and gears. Your peak numbers will look smaller but you'll be much quicker as you'll be driving in your power band. With 3.73 gears a 6500 rpm power peak is near useless on the street. On the track it's a different story.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
The cam is way too big, it'll make a lot of noise but run slower. Honestly a tight lash solid cam in the 230s range will make that thing pull hard and give better street manners but it won't be as rowdy. Smaller cams can actually make you faster than going way too big, where you are now. You want your torque peak around 4000 and your power peak around 5800 for that stall and gears. Your peak numbers will look smaller but you'll be much quicker as you'll be driving in your power band. With 3.73 gears a 6500 rpm power peak is near useless on the street. On the track it's a different story.


That all makes sense to me. Is there a specific cam for this application that you might recommend?
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:41 PM
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lets say your heads flow 280 ish?
110635-10 NA 290 290 237 237 .560 .560 110 106 Hyd. Hyd. 1,2
2400-6400 Rough idle, Street/Strip, strong mid range. 10.0:1 CR, 2500+ stall.
a cam like this would use most of the heads potential
The engine would make power to 6k plus
torque converter would work great as is. 3.73 gears ,,,? I dont know,that depends on what the car is used for? for the drags it would be fine,for x country travel with out over drive not great.
The 750 double pumper is a minimum.

Myself,I would use a bigger solid cam
vic junior intake and
850 CFM Holley double pumper,,,

this car needs a big exhaust system
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:56 PM
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lets say your heads flow 280 ish?
110635-10 NA 290 290 237 237 .560 .560 110 106 Hyd. Hyd. 1,2
2400-6400 Rough idle, Street/Strip, strong mid range. 10.0:1 CR, 2500+ stall.
a cam like this would use most of the heads potential
The engine would make power to 6k plus
torque converter would work great as is. 3.73 gears ,,,? I dont know,that depends on what the car is used for? for the drags it would be fine,for x country travel with out over drive not great.
The 750 double pumper is a minimum.

Myself,I would use a bigger solid cam
vic junior intake and
850 CFM Holley double pumper,,,

this car needs a big exhaust system


That cam sounds like a good one. Maybe matched with a RPM air gap and a 750-800 DP? Just exploring options here, as I mentioned before I'm a straight beginner to the hotrod world. Thanks again gentlemen for the help!
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:03 PM
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If you use a Holley double pumper? I would use the 750 or the 850,Ive never had as good performance from the 800,and I do not know why..
The 750 will easily support 500 plus HP.The 850 will easily support close to 600 HP,so it depends on final parts choices and finished combination.
The heads hold the key to this mystery
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:08 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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That's a little big of a cam IMO, it's a hyd roller, if it was a solid it'd be about right though. For a hyd roller I'd go high 220s duration, again it'll move the power down to where you'll use it.

It's not about peak, it's about max power where you drive.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:24 PM
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mild solid roller

Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
That's a little big of a cam IMO, it's a hyd roller, if it was a solid it'd be about right though. For a hyd roller I'd go high 220s duration, again it'll move the power down to where you'll use it.

It's not about peak, it's about max power where you drive.
I would use 240 duration and .585 lift if I used a solid roller.
This is a very mild cam.
My "street cam" is 256/264@ .050 in a bigger engine.It makes peak power at 6.500 rpm and of idle power is great
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:26 PM
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Maybe Richard can do a sim?I would like to see the difference between your cam choice(AP) and mine.
or Richard? maybe set me up with a link for a sim so we dont use up your time so much?
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