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Old 11-03-2007, 08:10 AM
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please help with my stroker

Hi i am building a 383 stroker to put in my truck the only problem is...i have no clue what i am doing i know for a fact i need a 3.75-inch stroke crankshaft but thats about it i know i can go out and just buy a stroker kit but i dont have the money so i have to buy it part buy part and i was wondering what else i am going to need as far as engine parts to tools any information would be helpful or if you can tell me where to get the info would be really helpful too thank you

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Old 11-03-2007, 09:31 AM
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These would be a good place to start:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Or you can just put a little money aside every month until you have enough to buy something like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294840053
They come with a warranty too.
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Old 11-03-2007, 09:42 AM
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You'll need a block to start with
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Old 11-03-2007, 07:11 PM
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At this stage, Blazin72 is correct in that your best option is to read, read, and read some more. Research everything and learn about your project before spending any money. Whatever you do, do not go out and order a bunch of parts without documenting all of the specifications first. Things like cylinder overbore size, block deck height, cylinder head volume, piston head volume, head gasket thickness, and others are all very important to know before you buy anything.

The basic, cookie-cutter 383 build is:

* 350 CI block (over bored to .030" or more depending on condition of cylinders)
* 3.75" Stroke crank
* 5.7" Rods (depending on use, might be able to use stock rods, but might be more cost-effective to buy new, and safer depending on use of engine)
New off-the-shelf pistons with the correct compression height for a 383 with * 5.7" rods (I forget the exact number)
* Cylinder head with a combustion chamber size that is compatible with the pistons you have (flat-top/dished/domed) to achieve your desired compression ratio

Beyond just these basic parts, you have to take into consideration more specific factors like:

* Final static compression ratio, which you can calculate here: http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp
* Quench distance which is ideally around .040" inches for a street engine (the distance between the top of the piston at TDC and the cylinder head) which is determined by block deck height and head gasket thickness, or custom pistons if you want to pay for them
* Cam that will match the needs of the engine as well as the car and gears
* Dynamic compression ratio which is determined by all of the above along with the cam you choose
* Cylinder heads of the appropriate cost/quality/size/material to achieve your desired use for the engine and that will match the cam
* Flywheel and harmonic damper made for use with the 383/400 (externally balanced)

If you want to throw together a cheap 383, you can be loose with the exact numbers and not be too far off, but if you want to make the most of the engine, you have to pay attention to the particulars. This is why a good book is the best place to start.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shalashaska91
Hi i am building a 383 stroker to put in my truck the only problem is...i have no clue what i am doing i know for a fact i need a 3.75-inch stroke crankshaft but thats about it i know i can go out and just buy a stroker kit but i dont have the money so i have to buy it part buy part and i was wondering what else i am going to need as far as engine parts to tools any information would be helpful or if you can tell me where to get the info would be really helpful too thank you
Good info from everybody else but they forgot to mention you will have to do some grinding to clearance your block for the larger stroke.
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:26 AM
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This book helped me. Can find it at most autoparts stores or online.
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Big-Inch.../dp/1884089860
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:43 AM
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Buying your 383 part by part will cost you way more than buying a kit, I think you're better off saving up and buying a kit. You still have lots of other parts to get separately like block heads cam headers intake carb etc...
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:29 PM
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Let me give you a rough cost break-down of what I spent to give you some food for thought. As I'll note in places, it can be done much cheaper. You'll have to decide what your requirements are and the results you want. Mine is a 388 cube LT1 Chevy.

Custom kit crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings. All forged w/ lightweight rods and pistons - $1700 SRP, Eagle, Clevite & Sealed Power
More basic stroker kits can be had for half or less than this.

Blue printed Moroso oil pump and hardened pump drive shaft - $90
A printed pump is not necessary but I strongly recommend the hardened shaft, which also eliminates the crappy Chevy plastic coupler. All this for about $15.....

Cloyes True Double Roller timing set - $80

Felpro gaskets and seals, including Felpro's high performance head gaskets w/ modified cooling passages - $150

Brass core plug and oil gallery kit - $15

TCI flex plate for neutral balance crank - $80
Not needed if you stay with stock Chevrolet type balanced crank.

ATI Super Damper - $380
Not necessary but I didn't like my stock arrangement.

ARP head bolts, main studs and oil pump stud - $150
ARP rod bolts came with the H-beam rods

Block machining and balancing which included magnafluxing, pressure checking, boring and honing with a deck plate and cleaning. I really don't remember, a few hundred bucks.

Block prep and other work I did myself:
Clearancing for the stroker parts
Deburring
Installing cam bearings
Optimizing oil returns, etc.
Checking and cleaning all threaded holes
Final cleaning

And then assembly after checking all clearances and file fitting the rings.

The heads and a few other incidentals:
Full head and intake porting, trick valve job, oversized valves, heat barrier and low fricton coatings, etc. - $1600
Obviously some extras here..... Most people don't bother with internal coatings for a mainly street engine. But I built this for maximum efficiency too.

Used roller cam $100, new would have been about $250
CC Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers and ARP studs - $325
Stock Chevy roller lifters and push rods, already had.
CC beehive springs and chrome-moly retainers - $200
Roller rockers are an extra, but better springs are a necessity with cam upgrade.

I don't know if you're building a carbed or injected engine but now you can start figuring the bolt-ons. Headers, induction, ignition, cooling upgrades and on and on.
I certainly don't mean to discourage you. But start saving your money now, even for an econo build if you want to do it right. As has already been said, read, do your homework, decide the combination of parts that will achieve your desired results and go from there. The fact that you don't have the money to jump right in is a plus in your case. It'll give you the time you need to get up to speed on the matter. There's a lot of good advice in this thread and I hope I've contributed to it. Knowledge and planning is everything to a successful build. But the results, satisfaction and gratification are well worth it.
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:32 PM
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stroker

i set out to do the same thing, actually in progress. i'm also on a budget so i'm kind of doing it stages. the machine work($1000) to the block takes a couple of weeks or so, so that gives you some time to come up with the $ for the next phase. the machine shop needs the piston rods and the crank($500) to do their thing though. the next step seems to be pistons, lifters & cam, 400 balancer and flexplate, push rods, and rockers($1100-1200). the machine shop guy should lead you through it like mine is doing for me.
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:54 PM
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Doing the same thing with an LT1 right now. I was lucky enough to get a brand new forged crank and H-beam forged rods for $360 on craigslist (cha-ching) so the more expensive part of my build is handled. Pistons and rings will be another $250 or more

The H-beams I got are also designed for strokers so there is a slim chance that I wont' have to clearance the block. I've built lots of engines, but they've all had something "wrong" with them (a ring in upside down, a cam not degreed correctly or something) so I'll probably take a disassembled core ($300) to a machine shop to have the block machined and the shortblock assembled, ($600-800 based on previous experience) then I'll do the top end at home.

I'll probably buy a set of AFR heads since I don't port very well and having heads ported and rebuilt is almost as expensive (if not more) than buying new. I'll probably spend $1300 on a good used pair of CNC 180 or 190cc heads. Not necessary, but stock heads choke a 350, so imagine how much they'll choke a 383.
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