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Old 09-03-2003, 06:29 PM
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PLEASE help, starter problems

I have a '73z28 with a '74 454 it has a 14.125 inch 168 tooth weighted flexplate and I need to know what is the right starter. I have the duralast 1035s wich is the standard bolt starter and it grinds everyway I shim it. I have also tried the 1035ms which is the metric bolt and it moved everytime i started the car due to the play in the starter bolt holes and the bolts. The starter can be set right (1/8 inch from the flywheel) and the car will start once, but the starter will move and then it will grind the next time I try to start it. I have torqued the bolts to the specified 29 ft-lbs and even to 50 ft-lbs (the housing broke at 50 ft-lbs). Please if you know anything it would help. This is a brand new 454 with 12.5/1 comp ratio speedpro pistons, gm dimple rods xtreme energy comp cam, roller rockers, ported and polished heads with huge valves and I just want to get it on the road. If you cant help me with my problem, but know of a trustworthy shop in Houston that can please tell me. Thank you all in advance for any help.
I think I need to start with the basics just to double check myself. Like which way is the weight supposed to face, wich post on the solenoid should power go to, ect. So please dont feel like you will offend me with the basic. Treat me like I have a four year olds knowledge of chevys and maybe Ill figure this out.

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Old 09-03-2003, 07:18 PM
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first i would start with new starter bolts genuine stuff - they will have knurls at the hex end of the bolt what sounds like happening is starter is moving sideways when you crank it the knurls in the bolts help take up for the loose machining of the bolt holes in the starter housing when the starter moves sideways only fractions it will cause the awful noise you hear and or cause the nose cone on the starter to break hope this helps
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:38 PM
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I have new starter bolts, but they are from the help section of autozone. From what I hear, they aren't worth the plastic they came in. I am going to go to the dealership and get another set. I have read about kickback in one of the older posts. Can anyone explain that to me and tell me a solution if that is my problem? Again thanks in advance for any help.
Michael
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Old 09-03-2003, 11:17 PM
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Michael,

Kick-back is when the engine trys to go backwards because the ignition timing is too far advanced. If this happens it can cause the nose of the started to crack. Then that in-turn will cause that awful noise you hear because the teeth of the starter do not mesh with the flywheel teeth.

One way to tell if you are having "kick-back" is the engine will labor hard after it has turned a few revolutions.

Good Luck
Scholman
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Old 09-06-2003, 02:57 PM
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thanks scholman,
I do know that my timing is too far advanced. The few times I did get the car running I heard a detonation knock. I never had it running consistently enough to tune it. I have other parts that need to go on it too. I have a performer rpm intake, an electric fan, fuel pump and other stuff. If I cant get the engine running then whats the point of installing more parts. You said that one way to recognize kickback is that the engine will labor real hard after a few revs. Well it does. I am going to turn my timing down and try the starter again.
Thank you again,
Michael

Ill let you guys know how it goes
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Old 09-07-2003, 01:17 AM
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Do you have the brace that holds the front of the starter to the block?
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Old 09-07-2003, 07:55 AM
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I have just gone thru the same problem with my SBC 383 stroker motor (same fly wheel) I was using an aftermarket(new) Hi Torque gear reduction starter with the staggered bolt pattern. The starter gear was not engaging the teeth enough and as you said, moving around. It bent the supplied bolts: I replaced with OEM and bent them, just took a few more starts. I milled .030 off the mounting face to get more engagement and added a brace to the nose but that only lasted about a week I then contacted Power Master and learned they made a starter with three bolt holes, which my 74 block has. Problem solved. This is a well made, 10# starter rated for up to 12.5 to 1 compression (mine is 10.2 to 1). This is a little more pricey ($179, special order from Sumitt Racing) but is much cheaper than a new flex plate and all the grief of replacing!!! Even though you have the big block, you just might have the three bolt hole pattern. You can not use the OEM nose brace on the smaller gear reduction starter.

Trees
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