PLEASE HELP.Twisted D/S into, Busted Trans Housing - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 10:01 AM
Camaro_Nut2001's Avatar
Drag Racing Lover
 

Last journal entry: '68 Impala Project
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mascot, TN.
Age: 46
Posts: 143
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 86
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
PLEASE HELP.Twisted D/S into, Busted Trans Housing

Hello, I took my 78 Malibu to the track Friday and tore it up. I would like some advise on what the problem might be. Here goes, I have a rebuilt 350 .060 over, flat tops with 882 heads with 2.02/1.60. I'm running a Lunati VooDoo cam, Advertised Duration 276/ 284, Lift .504/ .525. I have a Performer RPM intake with a 750 single pump carb. The motor is still new with only about 200 miles on it so I took it easy on it. I have a TH350 with a shift kit, 3200 to 3500 stall, new U-Joints, stock D/S. I pulled the stock 7.5 10 bolt out & put in a 8.5 10 bolt out of a 70 Lemans. It has a 4.56 gear with a spool. I'm running 28.0-10.5-15 M/T Drag Slicks.
I took it down the 1/8th real easy shifting a 5200 but left the line pretty hard. I flashed the stall instead of tacking it up and leaving that way. I brought it back to the trailer and adjusted on the carb. I was going to make my second run and pulled into the bleach box. I was heating my tires up and shifted from 1st to 2nd and the car came apart. It broke the D/S into, busted the bellhousing off the motor. Now my car is sitting down on the left side like I busted a shock or something.
Wonder what caused me to do all this damage? I was doing my burnout when it happened so it was not like I hooked up at the line. If it had done it then I could understand. Please Help as I want to take it back before the season ends this year.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 11:00 AM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
Sounds like your driveshaft was to long. not enough slack in the tailshaft. You need to check your mounts also motor and trans.if your driveshaft was to long when you torque it up it pushes it into the tailshaft something gonna break. do you have the drivers side of your engine chained down. most people run a solid mount on the driver side to stop the flex so things wont break or twist so much. Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 05-24-2009 at 01:20 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 12:51 PM
Camaro_Nut2001's Avatar
Drag Racing Lover
 

Last journal entry: '68 Impala Project
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mascot, TN.
Age: 46
Posts: 143
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 86
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks

First off, thank you for your opinion on what happened. My driveshaft was the correct length and no I don't have anything chained down. I'm running factory motor mounts and an after market trans mount. I understand what you're saying though.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 01:21 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
The rearend hasent shifted has it from when you changed it? Or the pinion angle may be off. Cole

Last edited by eloc431962; 05-24-2009 at 04:32 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 03:06 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,471
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 487 Times in 442 Posts
It may be just the fact that you were still running the stock driveshaft. I don't remember the exact #, but for most stock shafts the "critical speed" where the shaft bows under power and rpm far enough to become permanently deformed is only a little over 5000 rpm. You may have hurt it on the previous pass and it let go on the next. The stock shaft in the Metric cars is also one of the weakest out there. You may want to look at some of the racing driveshaft companies and do a search on this topic here at Hotrodders, this topic came up a few months ago.

You weren't using a conversion type U-joint at one end of the shaft were you? These are known to cause problems.

Another thing to look at would be the u-joint used, it is not recommended to use a greasable joint in a drag car because the drilled hole through the joint makes it considerably weaker. Solid, greasable only at assembly joints are the type to use.

Third thing to look at would be pinion angle, since you have changed to a rear that was not originally installed in you body type. Did you use an adjustable upper control arm kit to do this install, or an aftermarket kit made for this conversion, or did you just force it in using stock pieces?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 04:57 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro_Nut2001
Hello, Now my car is sitting down on the left side like I busted a shock or something.
Wonder what caused me to do all this damage? I was doing my burnout when it happened so it was not like I hooked up at the line. If it had done it then I could understand. Please Help as I want to take it back before the season ends this year.
Eric i am wondering why his car is sitting down on the left side now. something in his suspension broke or something. Cole
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 05:08 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,471
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 487 Times in 442 Posts
Until the OP actually examines his car and tells us what he found, we will have no idea why it sits un-level now, could be as simple as the spring is mis-aligned in the pocket. I was just pointing out things to look for that pertained to the driveshaft. I'd have determined why it sat un-level before it even came back off the trailer.
Edit: Any time you blow a driveshaft with any tire speed, there will almost always be much more damage than just a broken shaft. Usually the trans, exhaust, and rear end pinion yoke are trashed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 05:22 PM
eloc431962's Avatar
Evil Wicked Mean And Nasty
 
Last wiki edit: Pilot bearing and bushings
Last journal entry: roof repair
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: back in the garage.
Posts: 13,762
Wiki Edits: 37

Thanks: 50
Thanked 28 Times in 24 Posts
I totally agree with you Eric. Was just thinking about it and was wondering what your input might be thats all. just i know you are a very knowledgeable person on here and i appreciate that. Last year i busted the bell-housing in my 67 camaro now i am running a solid mount on the driver side no breaks yet in that area anyway. Cole
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 05:38 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,471
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 487 Times in 442 Posts
I hear you Cole. Broke my share of stock driveshafts (3) before I got smart. I figure the un-level problem has to be spring or airshock related as the suspension in these cars doesn't hold anything up, just front to back and side to side location of the rear axle.

After measuring run-out on several stock driveshafts, I came to the conclusion that they are the most poorly made pieces in the entire stock driveline, typically made with seamed tubing(muffler tube) and to terrible run-out specs(some more than .050") and that is why they have weights at both ends--to balance out the poor assembly and materials. The race shafts I use typically run out less than .005" and have no weights! They are not needed if the shaft is straight. www.dennysdriveshaft.com and there are others just as good.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 06:06 PM
Camaro_Nut2001's Avatar
Drag Racing Lover
 

Last journal entry: '68 Impala Project
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mascot, TN.
Age: 46
Posts: 143
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 86
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Rearend

Hello Guys, Thank ya'll for the great information. I checked and the left spring is knocked of it's perch. The rearend has shifted over to the right about 3 inches. When I put the rearend in I just cut the two stabilizer bars and over laped them and welded them back together. I did'nt use an adjustable kit or anything. The rearend is 2 inches longer than the factory one that came out of it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 06:29 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 9,471
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 29
Thanked 487 Times in 442 Posts
Camaro_Nut, If you can finance it you will be much farther ahead to get the adjustable upper control arms made for this swap. This is because the bushing centerlines on the frame and on the axle housing are not aligned in the same plane using the 1970 rear. Are you sure it is a 8.5" and not an 8.2"? GM didn't start using the 8.5" in coil spring cars until 1972.

Without the correct upper arms I think you are going to have nothing but problems, both with alignment and location, and with pinion angle. Did you set the pinion angle correctly before welding the upper arms together?

FYI, shifting the trans in the water box is the hardest thing on the parts. Proper procedure is to start off in high gear, but without a manual valvebody you will be unable to do this. If you do have to shift, get the tires rolling at an easy pace, shift, and then spin them hard. Always let off the gas before the tires hook coming out of the water, that hook causes more broken trannys than any other thing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 09:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: fushun
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Brass air fittings

Now that is a lot of brass air fittings ******************************* there is just about every type
of air fitting that you could want. Wholesale prices too. I guess these could be used as small water pipe fitting also. I
used some of the parts to make my babington wvo burner.

Last edited by cboy; 05-25-2009 at 06:24 AM. Reason: Advertising. Please see: commercial posting guidelines.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2009, 10:48 PM
Camaro_Nut2001's Avatar
Drag Racing Lover
 

Last journal entry: '68 Impala Project
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mascot, TN.
Age: 46
Posts: 143
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 86
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
You're Right

You are right, it is an 8.2. I am going to check with Summit on those arms and go that route. I really want to thank everyone for there input as it has really helped me.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
dipstick problems with 350 trans merowe Transmission - Rearend 5 08-15-2006 03:42 PM
stuck drain plug on manual trans steffan_miller Transmission - Rearend 5 07-01-2004 10:15 AM
First time trans rebuilder...need tips! 4 Jaw Chuck Transmission - Rearend 14 06-23-2004 02:29 PM
Fine Metal in Trans (NEW) bigjoedo Transmission - Rearend 1 08-09-2003 01:23 PM
Bell Housing and standard 3 speed trans. 56 Ch Frank D Long Engine 2 11-19-2002 07:46 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.