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Old 02-06-2006, 10:38 AM
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Plug welding small holes- Here's a tip!

I'm smoothing a firewall. Lots of holes to fill. I had read on here a while back that some use a flat piece of copper on the backside, weld and remove the copper (weld won't stick to it). How on earth was I going to do this myself ( the wife ain't much of a helper). I thought maybe a magnet to hold the copper in place. I discovered that a magnet welding clamp works great by itself. I think it's brass and the center is spring loaded. This works great on flat areas where there's lots of room for the magnet on the back. Still working on how to do the more difficult areas. Murray
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:50 AM
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Im doing this exact thing..... thats some good info.
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:55 AM
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sometimes a magnet will mess up the arc, sending it all over the place, if thats the case then take the piece of brass and form an "arm" out of it so that you can line the tip up with the hole, and hold it in place with a magnet thats 6 or 8 inches away

if you only have a small piece of copper, pop rivit it to a length of scrap sheet metal, just make sure that the poprivit is far enough from the hole your filling, otherwise everything could wind up stuck to your panel, lol
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:14 PM
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Ill second the part about the magnet messing with the weld. I use neodonium magnets (hard drive magnets) to hold panels and copper, if you get close to them your weld will look like you ran out of gas. Spatter everywhere
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:18 PM
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^^^ the first time i ever got a magnet way to close, i was also welding bare handed, elbow on the table, fingers right on the copper nozzle to put a spot weld right wheer i needed it on this little tab i had to stick on

the magnet pushed the acr to the copper nozzle and sent the juice through me ....

i created new swear words that day ....
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Old 02-06-2006, 06:13 PM
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I found that pennies make excellent backing material. I have drilled holes in the middle of the penny and put a coat hanger in it and then pulled the coat hanger through the hole. Just weld the coat hanger in p0lace during your weld and leave it in place. You can cut it off the other side and remove the penny.
Just one old mans way.
Jan
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:22 PM
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Another way is to get some metal just a little thicker then the body metal, cut out some little circles about a 1/8'' bigger then the hole, hold it on the hole, concentrate your weld on the edge of the new thicker metal, weld it, grind the weld down a little. a little bit of duraglas, and you're in there, never see it.

Rob

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Old 02-08-2006, 07:49 PM
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I learned this on trucks TV the other day. Take a rivet, turn it "inside out" and weld into the hole. You should be able to find a rivet the size you need, and you can use the shaft as a handle to hold when welding and then grind/cut if off.
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Old 02-09-2006, 08:27 PM
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A good way that I use to fill holes is to use masking tape. If you have some space behind the hole, put a piece of masking tape (larger than the hole) and stick a round or square piece of sheet metal on it. The masking tape will hold the piece for you and you will have your both hands free. If you don't have any space to get behind the hole, you can also put the masking tape in front of the hole, by leaving at least one place to tack the piece of metal.

When you use masking tape, make sure you look at it when welding because it will probably burn. It will also leave some glue on your panel after you remove it so make sure to clean before applying any filler. Duct tape also works.
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Old 02-09-2006, 08:44 PM
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OK, here's my 2¢. When you can't get to the backside easily, use a stud gun to weld a stud to a scrap of sheetmetal. Then cut/grind the piece until it fits the hole. The stud acts as a "handle". Any good? I dunno. Works for me!
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Old 02-09-2006, 08:48 PM
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welding small holes

I agree with Crashtech, I used a 1/16" welding rod to center of sheetmetal shaped to hole size,to hold plug in place, welded in plug, and break off rod, gind smooth
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