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Old 01-23-2007, 05:29 PM
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Plugging holes in 32 frame rails

Below is a pic of the driver side 32 Ford frame rail. Previous owner did a spectacular job of mounting a steering box. Just burned holes in frame rail. Naturally I am going to plug these up. My question is what do you guys do with the factory holes like the ones for the stock steering box? Do you also fill them or do you leave them for authenticity?
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:56 PM
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Are you building an authentic hot rod? I have never seen one of those. Build it like YOU want it to be!
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:40 PM
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Hotrods are what you make em there are no rules there are no guidlines but if it were me i'd leave em i didnt touch a single hole on either of my model a rails mostly cuz it added to the look i wanted. Rods are personal though do what makes ya happy
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:26 PM
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We used a steel plate inside the rail where the steering box mounted on the 32 3W Coupe we're finishing up. Tacked the plate inside and welded up the holes from the outside. Did make a plug for the steering sector hole(the big one) and welded around it. Easier than cutting and welding individual plugs in all the holes. Weld 'em up, grind 'em smooth...done.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasadenahotrod
We used a steel plate inside the rail where the steering box mounted on the 32 3W Coupe we're finishing up. Tacked the plate inside and welded up the holes from the outside. Did make a plug for the steering sector hole(the big one) and welded around it.


I agree ... but be careful not to warp the rails ... I always box my original 32 Ford frame rails ... install the plate from the back to cover the holes ... and then box the rail. Then plug the large hole and then weld up and grind the smaller holes ...
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:00 AM
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You have some steel that has been intergranularly affected by very high cutting torch heat and you will first have to enlarge the holes somewhat to move closer to the original unaffected base steel. Clean up the holes with a file and a large drill bit. Then you can use a uni-bit if they need to be even a bit larger. Make up plugs that are a tap-in fit and weld in place, preferably with TIG, or if not available, a MIG. A stick welder will put heat back in the same area that has already seen too much. For safety's sake, then full length box the frame - it is 75 years old and probable has lots of stress areas and microscopic cracks from the crappy roads in the thirties and early forties.

Dave
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