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rtyauch301 07-22-2010 01:01 PM

what do you all think rich lean about right seams to me like they didnt last long before i was getting miss fires only about 12K miles

BogiesAnnex1 07-22-2010 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by rtyauch301
what do you all think rich lean about right seams to me like they didnt last long before i was getting miss fires only about 12K miles

Picture is quite fuzzy, but I see a lot of orange on the outer shell and the insulator. This would make me think this engine is in a very wet environment on the outside, like a boat, or a vehicle close to the water, a swamp buggy for instance. I also see a lot of orange on the insulator, assuming this isn't from some chemical or colorant in the fuel, I suspect there's coolant leaking into the cylinder from somewhere.


sqzbox 07-22-2010 03:36 PM

Rtyauch301, Are you using octane booster? I've seen that color before on my 455 I tore down after a rod bearing spun. I let the dam thing over rev one time and I broke the top ring on 4 pistons. I used octane booster in it about 2 out of three tank fulls and when I tore it down the reddish orange deposit was on everything, valves, piston tops, chamber, and plugs.
12,000 miles really isn't that bad on an engine you know, that's about 1 years worth of driving. I would just replace the plugs and chock it up to maintenance!. :D
From your pic and user name I assume you have those plugs in a 301 cu. in?
What induction system do you have?
Mileage on the motor?

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 03:50 PM

It's a 400 ci pontiac factory intake 2 bbl 117k no booster I don't think that stuff helps

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 04:04 PM

Also I wouldn't say I live on a wet area... I live about 3mi from tn river in northern al

cobalt327 07-22-2010 04:08 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Do you use only one brand and grade of fuel? If it's an "off brand" premium, this can be due to the additives.

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 04:20 PM

I do allways get my fuel from the same station it's a texico allways 93 oct

sqzbox 07-22-2010 04:26 PM

Change the plugs, run some WOT passes, pull a couple out and take some more pic's and show us what you find and we'll go from there. :thumbup:

sqzbox 07-22-2010 04:28 PM

I forgot,. What kind of oil do you use?

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 04:35 PM

Gtx 20W 50

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 05:51 PM

Thought I would add it seems to have solved my mis at idle but after the car warm up at wot I get a miss or maybe predet I'm not sure which..... Car run at around 180 to 190 never gets any hotter I'm thinking I might have a carb issue here it's never been rebuilt that I know of and iv had the car for about 40k miles so I bought a rebuild kit today befor work figured I couldn't go wrong for $18...... Also I will do a few wot runs on the way home and take a photo of the plugs when I get home.... One more thing I don't burn oil and iv never lost any water I do loose about half a quart of oil ever 3k but I beleave all that goes out the rear main seal as it does leak

sqzbox 07-22-2010 06:06 PM

1 qt. every 3K is pretty good for a 100K+ 400! I'd look into solving the plug issue before ripping into more than 1 thing at a time. Let's look at the plugs first. :D

Your plug's in the pic look to be R45TS AC's or equivalent, right?

rtyauch301 07-22-2010 09:43 PM

theirs about 25 miles on this plug and about 4 wot runs to 90 excuse the paper towel it was hot looked new to me aside from a little white powdering which i tried to get in the photo with my crappy camera.. so were to from here.. also if anyone knows how to shrink this image it looks clearer smaller... also the old plugs were #86 autolite coppers and the new ones are the same

cobalt327 07-22-2010 10:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Might be a little clearer...

sqzbox 07-23-2010 07:05 AM

Plug looks consistent with a 117K mile carbed engine.
What kind of ignition system do you have? It might be getting a little weak.
That might explain some of the deposits on the plug already.

Need to change the air filter and PCV valve. When you change the PVC valve, pull the hose from it to the vacuum source and clean it out also.
If your still using the stock air cleaner, you need to change the little filter element inside the cleaner that filters the crank case.

Before you jump on the carb, I would check the ignition first. Inspect the inside of the cap for light or dark carbon tracks between the contacts and build=up of deposits. worn and dirty rotor button. Check the cables and make sure their not touching any exhaust or rubbing anything metal including the oil dipstick tube. Pay attn. to #5 and #7 cables that could cross fire between them. You can check the wires also at night. Any cross firring can be spotted
by a small spark between the cables. Move the cables around with a wood dowel or something like that to keep from ZAPPING your finger!

Check all this and if it's good or replacing worn part's doesn't improve the slight miss, then start on the carb. :D

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