Mocking up the Howe throw-out bearing in my old-school BBC scattershield. The way this bearing is made, the entire thing moves with pressure taking the lines along for the ride. It's only 5/8", but the lines are constantly flexing. Then there's the rotational movement. The bearing assembly references on a stud installed in place of the top left retainer bolt which allows for about 45° of (possible) rotation between the inlet and bleeder fittings.
Am I overthinking this "rotation" business? It seems like driveline rotation would push the bearing so the bleeder fitting is always resting on the dowel stud as shown.
Pretty sure the inlet hose will fit through the clutch fork hole, no problem. Any ideas on how/where to route the bleeder line so it doesn't get tangled up in the PP, has no low spots, yet still has enough "flex" for constant movement? IIRC, the PTFE lines don't like tight-radius bends...
Am I overthinking this "rotation" business? It seems like driveline rotation would push the bearing so the bleeder fitting is always resting on the dowel stud as shown.
By looking at the pic,it looks to me like you are going to need a bleeder line with a a 90 degree end on it, in order for it to have a smooth transition exiting the bellhousing.The ones I use (Tilton,McCleod)have 90 degree fittings allready on the bearings to eliminated that problem you are facing there.
I think that's the ticket! I can put a 90° bulkhead fitting into the top of the bell so it comes straight down, then build a hose with a 90° ell for that end and a straight on the other. Or just use what I've got and a hose with two 90°'s...
I'm not sure on the Howe bearing,but the Mcleod and Tilton bearings that I use....The bleeder is the TOP line.Thats the line where the issue is.Check your instructions,or go online to the Howe site,or call them if you have to, to verify.
Many people bleed their hydraulic clutch systems outside the bellhousing, prior to assembling them. It is a lot easier, and avoids any chance of mess inside. In some cases it's impossible to get at the bleeder once the bellhousing and trans are assembled, and I've seen people pipe the bleeder outside the bellhousing, so it's easier to bleed also.
The inlet fitting is easy, straight shot out the side. It's the bleeder fitting I'm gonna have trouble with - keeping it clear of the PP, routing it up and outside the bell, while allowing enough flex for 5/8" of movement. The two fittings that came with it are aluminum, I'll replace those with steel as added insurance...
Yes, I see most people using a flex line on the bleeder, and routing it through the bellhousing, to a point that's easy to access, and wont create issues with fluid running out while bleeding. Some just put it higher on the bellhousing, if that's still accessible.
Think about this...Run your 2 4AN braided lines out of the clutch fork hole,the bleeder having a 90 degree end on it.Have the bleeder line long enough where you have EZ access to bleed the system.When finished,secure both lines to a bracket, that you come up with, to a trans ear on the side of the case, or another suitable location. They will now be up and out of the way,and pulled back to avoid interference with the pressure plate.Mcleod recommends putting a rubber hose piece around the lines where they exit the clutch fork hole.I made a bolt on metal plate to go over the clutch fork opening,drilled and tapped the bell, and have the lines running thru the plate with rubber grommets installed.But the Mcleod method will work just fine also.
No,not as long as they are tight it'll be fine that way....And I leave my bleeder line just long enough coming out of the bell to do this following procedure....When you bleed it,open the bleeder and submerge it in a clear plastic or glass cup of brake fluid.Push the pedal to the floor (at a rate as if you were driving it)and bring it back up one time.Wait a few seconds,and repeat,and keep repeating.You will start seeing air bubbles in the cup of brake fluid when you push the pedal down....Keep checking the reservoir,making sure fluid is allways in there....Keep doing this until you don't see any more bubbles in the cup,just fluid going in.While the bleeder is still in the cup,reach in and close the bleeder by hand.Pull the bleeder out of the cup and tighten it up.Top off the res. and at this point you should have a nice solid pedal.Secure the lines.And hopefully you can now move on to another project.
That'll definitely make it easier to plumb, running them both out the fork hole plus it'll make it easier to leave appropriate slack in the lines for slave movement.
If you use the above bleeder procedure; make SURE the end of the hose is completely submerged in fluid at all times, and that you close the bleeder before you remove it from the cup. I used this method for brakes before I got a bleeder kit.
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