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Old 04-02-2010, 10:30 AM
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Plumping tuck and roll pleats

I have made some t/r panels using the twice sewn folds. Wondering if gluing strips of foam on the backside, in the trenches, might not puff up the pleats? Has anyone done this? Better way? Easier way? Recommendations on what foam? Size of foam strip? Other ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your responses.

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:08 AM
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stuffed pleats

read all of dan two lakes posts. he has shared a lot of good info here.. when I did mine I marked backing material for the width of the pleats then marked the back of the finish material on the back about twice the width of the size of the backing stripes. I use a warm not hot iron to fold and press on the lines to put in a crease, then sew the finish to the backing. I cut the foam into strips just a little bit narrower than the pleats then use 2 yard sticks, one above and one below the foam and wrap one end tight with a piece of string and stuff the foam into the pleat. undo the string and pull out the yard sticks opposite directions leaving the foam in place.
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Old 04-02-2010, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronbo
I have made some t/r panels using the twice sewn folds. Wondering if gluing strips of foam on the backside, in the trenches, might not puff up the pleats? Has anyone done this? Better way? Easier way? Recommendations on what foam? Size of foam strip? Other ideas? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
Tuck and roll is a very antiquated method of making pleats that is very labor intensive and inaccurate. If you used soft foam to fill the pleats, they will never have any definition, and the pleats will lose their height quickly. You needed to use very firm foam in the first place. Adding foam under the pleats won't help much, because the foam will compress against whatever is under the foam. Foam is graded with a 4 digit number. The higher the first two numbers are, the better the quality of the foam. The higher the second two numbers are the firmer the foam is. In other words, 2065 foam is lower quality and less firm than 3080 foam.

You needed to fill the pleats with very firm, or thicker more high quality foam in the first place to get the loft you were looking for that would stay looking good for any length of time. This is why tuck and roll isn't used any more. It is an antiquated method that can't compete with just sewing the fabric to sew foam. Sewing the fabric to sew foam insures pleats that are exactly the same. That can't be guaranteed using the old-fashioned tuck and roll method.
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:54 PM
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Let me try to be more clear. The method I used was to glue 1/2 foam to my material. Sewed each pleat to width. Folded on each original seam and sewed the back. Wondering about supplimenting pleat by adding foam, on the back, between the sewn pleats.
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Old 04-03-2010, 07:38 AM
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Yes, you could do that, but you will need very firm foam between the pleats to make any noticeable difference.
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Old 04-03-2010, 02:02 PM
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Just saw an application at Sachse Rod Shop where the installer glued what looked like 1-1/2" strips of landau top foam (rigid) to backing material. They were spaced out about 3/16" between each other. After they were all glued down contact cement was sprayed onto the foam strips and the upholster material was glued down on top of the foam. The upholster material was then pressed down into the spaces between the foam. To finish it off the upholster material and the backing material were sewn together between the foam spaces. The definition was very crisp and sharp.

Vince
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