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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 09:23 AM
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Those codes are there for a reason. To protect your investment. When they want truss ties or hurricane bracing, it keeps your valuables still valuable.

I overbuilt my polebarn (2 zones higher for trusses), and I STILL worry about the contents when we have a big storm. And we dont get ANY winds like yours. 50 mph is about it. Inside the barn, she gets AWFULLY noisy when its windy. Everything is screwed and glued. I did it ALL myself, to be sure NO shortcuts were taken.

The barn cost me $10K to erect, maybe 20K total. Its protecting one heck of a lot more ! I want to keep ALL of them for quite some time. Insurance SUCKS, if you ever had to file a claim.

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Old 10-25-2005, 11:26 AM
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Bugs,
I'm an architect in Michigan but I might be able to help. Your first step should be to visit your local building department with a copy of your mortgage survey and a crude sketch of your planned pole barn marked up on the survey drawing. Be sure to draw it to scale. Indicate how close (by dimensions) the barn will be to property lines, overhead and underground utilities and nearby buildings, including neighbor's buildings (if they are close by).

Your building department clerk will be able to explain your options and the necessary follow-up steps. After all, he is paid by you, so use his services.

Don't listen to your neighbor. He sounds like he is Mr. I Think I Know It All" but doesn't have a clue. Lately the wind has been blowing a bit around there. A pole barn makes a great sale in the wind. Make sure it is anchored well into the ground, otherwise your neignbor is going to be asking you for rent to park your building on his property.

Pole barns can be a little less expensive to build, but don't try to wish away the forces of nature. You will not come out on top in the long run. Quality lasts, and in the long run it will cost less to maintain and operate. Good Luck!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 12:04 PM
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I had a 50 Mercury on my other boat and had nothing but trouble with it. I have a Yamaha 115 Now Four stroke. Its great, if you have enough money left after you build the pole shed you ought to get a Yamaha.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2005, 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the advice jpd37, you are 100% correct about my neighbor, he is a total "I know it all and your not going to convince me other wise" type of guy I can't wait to get me a building put up and show him that he's not as smart as he thinks he is My wife and I are hashing over the idea now of going two story with a all metal building/shop and doing it right to start with, I do a lot of wood working also so I was thinking I could put all my tools for this upstairs and keep my heavy things below, this would also take up less room in the yard, with all the hurricans and high winds we get here it surely needs to be built strong so at least if I go with a company that installs them the shop would be built to stand up and not sail into my neighbors yard like you said Of couse this is going to depend on the county letting me do it, they should as my neighbor went two sotry with his, he parks his travel trailer underneath and has a shop/storage upstairs, I might even get the company that did his give me a price along with the other I check with,
And this way it will be built faster, it would take me a long time to build a pole barn myself I just ain't as young as I used to be Take care and thanks again, Bugs

Henery Highrise, This 40hp Mercury that is on my boat is the one that was on it when I bought the thing and it too has give me nothing but trouble since day one, my B.I.L. has a 90hp Yamaha on his bout and he loves it, But I can't bring myself to pay the high price they are asking for a four stroke right now with me wanting a new shop and Mig/Tig welder , the wife will only give so much if you know what mean I have a 70hp Johnson that I am going to put on it for now, my boat is only rated for up to a 40hp and I don't know just what the "Man" is going to have to say about me over powering the boat but I am going to see if I can get by with it for a while, I have asked around and can't find anyone that has been caught so I don't have a clue about what they will do if I get checked
There are around 600 members in the fishing club I belong to and none of them have ever done it or know of anyone who has so I guess I will just have to try it and see, as far as the boat goes I am sure it will handle it, it may get a little squirrely in a turn but it is now with the 40hp on it so I know just how sharp I can turn while running, I'll let you know how it does, right now it shrimping season so I can get by with our bigger boat for this and do the swap some time this winter, my big boat needs a gimble bearing replaced and it's good to go, later, Bugs
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2005, 12:57 PM
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My minds made up (finally)

Since I decided to do this shop all leagal like and get a permit and pay the set back charges I have decided to go with an all steel building instead of a pole barn type shop, I talked with a guy last night that installs them and he said he could put me up a 24' X 40' with one entrance door,one 3'0"X3'0" window and one 10' X 8' roll up door for $5500.00 plus tax, this doesn't include the slab of course but I have some buddy's that do concrete work so we can do the slab ourselves for around $1500.00 for materials and what ever kind of beer they drink

I think this will be the best way to go , then it will be done a lot faster and not a whole lot more money than a pole barn, I will post some pictures as soon as it's done, thanks again for all your help and advise Bugs
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Old 10-27-2005, 01:06 PM
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Might suggest a taller roll up door....never know when you want to get an RV in there. I can't get mine in because of the height.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2005, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugs
Since I decided to do this shop all leagal like and get a permit and pay the set back charges I have decided to go with an all steel building instead of a pole barn type shop, I talked with a guy last night that installs them and he said he could put me up a 24' X 40' with one entrance door,one 3'0"X3'0" window and one 10' X 8' roll up door for $5500.00 plus tax, this doesn't include the slab of course but I have some buddy's that do concrete work so we can do the slab ourselves for around $1500.00 for materials and what ever kind of beer they drink

I think this will be the best way to go , then it will be done a lot faster and not a whole lot more money than a pole barn, I will post some pictures as soon as it's done, thanks again for all your help and advise Bugs
Pre-engineered steel buildings have a good record in hurricane country compared to pole barns and frame construction. Like jpd37 said, though, make sure it is well anchored. Don't tolerate somebody just using a Hilti gun to fire some nails through the post bases into a slab. You want real anchor bolts. Also, check the wind load rating. The spacing of the fasteners in the roof and sidewall panels has a big effect on that. You will want to check the manufacturer's specs against the completed building. High winds are not a fun way to discover you have half enough fasteners in the sheet metal.

You'll also appreciate having a clear span. A pole barn can be built 24' wide with a clear span, but it's more involved.

You don't have to wait until it's completed to post pictures. Sidewalk supervisors are plentiful! Good luck to you.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2005, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for the advice on the fasteners and the roll up door, the guy that is going to put it up came over last night (This is a freind of the family that we have known since he was little) and told me more about it, he seemed to think a taller door should be used too,If I wanted to use them I already had three roll up doors(used) for what ever I decided to build so what we are going to do is take one of them apart and use the panels from them to make two taller doors,and said he will knock off the price of the one on the original plans, he said the building comes with a 3 ft. screw in anchor every 6 ft. plus I am going to use the L shaped 3/8" anchor bolts in the concrete , I don't trust the screw in anchors only, so I think it will stay put, if not I am sure that at least the bottom plate and the slab will stay in a hurrican and I can start all over

My wife and I have decided to put it in the back yard, I will just have to have some fill dirt brought in to build it up a bit, it does get very wet back there because of a low spot right in the center of the yard but where the shop is going it's dry,

He talked me into going with a 30'X40' building also, he said then I will have enough head room at the peak to later install a floor and make me a loft up stairs for my wood working tools or what ever, he claims the rafters will support a lot of weight and that he can "hang" to floor system from them so there will still not be any center post downstairs to be in my way, I guess I will find out,

I think I will take some before and after pictures , right now all I have to take a pictures of is the valueble junk I have to go through and move so we have a place to put it More to come
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2005, 01:30 PM
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Anchor bolts

I would install a larger anchor bolt and have a proper footing as the main thing in wind load is up lift of the building in a wind storm..Ask your buddy if he has any examples of enginered foundation drawings for your building..Usually (hopefully) the provider of the steel building has those drawings made up for your local area..

The idea being that if you were to get slammed, you may lose a panel or so but the building remains standing..

May be overkill but the buildings I have built are still there..

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2005, 07:33 AM
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We talked last night about the footing, he said they normally set these building on 12"X12" flat paveing stones if the owner doesn't plan on pouring a slab and then hold it in place with the 3' screw in anchors, damn this, I want this thing bolted and anchored, he said he would come over and help me form and pour the footer so he can lay out where the anchor bolts go so they will be out of the way of the uprights, also the type of building I am getting won't have any over hang where the roof meets the walls, it will be rounded like these carports you see everywhere, this will help cut down lift and the chance of the wind getting ahold of the roof,

He said these buildings come with a 125mph wind load warrenty so that's pretty good I think, I have a 12' X 30' aluminum screened patio on my house and it survived the three storms we had last year without any damage, I hope my shop will do the same I live 30 miles from the sea shore so there is a lot to slow them down by the time they get to me, however I did loose 9 oak tree's last year
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 12:34 PM
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The paving stones work fine as long as the anchor rods are screwed in good. All the pavers are doing is providing a foot print to keep the steel from sinking into the ground. Most mobile homes are anchored with the screw in anchors. They go at least 3' in the ground. Similar anchors hold utility poles up. I've done it both ways. If you want to get the building up before you can get the slab done, pour your own footers. I'd go about 18" deep (has to be below frost line, but aren't you in FL?) and 18" square. Pour one of those where every beam touches the ground. If you have a slab poured, make sure you get the specs from the building manufacturer first! They will want thickend edges (6"-12" back from the edge is thicker than the center) and will want thicker concrete where the anchor bolts are set in the concrete if you want to eliminate the screw in anchors and cables/straps. With the cables/straps, the only thing the anchor bolts do is keep the "feet" of the columns from shifting -- the anchors and cables/straps keep it from lifting up. So MAKE SURE they know you don't want the cables/straps so they can give you a proper foundation plan.

The drilled in anchors are as good as set in bolts if done right. They need to be a minimum of 3x the diameter from any edge. There will be recommended anchor size and depth for your building that will conform to the desired/designed wind load. The engineers would make sure to spec the correct bolt -- you just have ot make sure the contractor uses what's spec'd!

This is part of what I do for the USAF!

My pole barn will be clear span, 30' wide. Poles are 10' on center with 30' trusses. I wanted to do it all myself, but can't get time off and enough help for a long enough period of time to do it all!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2005, 01:46 PM
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Thanks farna,I have a couple of boxes of Red Head anchor bolts that he said will work fine instead of putting in the L shaped ones as we were planning, and we are still going to use the 3' screw in anchors only I am going to put them 4 or 5 feet from the building, then in case of a hurrican I am going to use nylon straps that I have to go over top of the entire building and sinch them down, so between the anchors in the concrete and the straps I think it will stay put, I did this last year to my 12'X30' aluminum screened in porch , it has a 2' over hang all the way around it,and it survied the three hurricans we had last year, it was bad here too, took out 9 oak trees and my neighbors shop, my porch did fine, even the two freinds of mine that built my porch said I was going to loose it when the storms were heading this way,I fooled them I hope I am as lucky with my shop
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Old 01-15-2006, 03:13 AM
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UPDATE On My Shop

I am finally ready to have the fill dirt brought in My shop is in the yard and the kid that is going to build it is rideing my butt to hurry up, he is ready to get it set up He says if he starts on it at daylight(him and one other guy) he will be done and gone by noon, this I have to see I went ahead and had him order it and we off loaded it in the back yard close to where it's going, I noticed the our money was slowly dwindleing away so I had to act fast Also I had to shrink it down some more to make ends meet, I ended up with a 25' X 30', they made it up for two 7'X10' doors both in one end of it but I am going to see if we can turn the building the other way and stick a door in each end of it instead, this way I will get a nice breeze in the summer comeing off the lake Plus by turning the building the other way it will make it easier to add onto it on down the road, I think I will wait until he comes over to help me with the footer before I spring the changes on him

It took me a lot longer than I thought to get the stuff moved that was in the way,including the pigs pen, then I had to build him a new one, I just ain't as young as I used to be but it is all over now except the building part of it and getting moved in, I am going to put lean to 's around it for semi dry storage for a lot of the things I want to keep so I will still have room to squeeze inside to work on things Thanks again for all of your help and ideas on this Bugs
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Old 01-17-2006, 09:07 AM
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My pole building is 30' wide no problem. You can probably go up to 50' but the price will start to go up.
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