polishing an aluminum intake, lot of work?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2002, 02:40 PM
HotRodF100's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pennsylvania
Age: 54
Posts: 62
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post polishing an aluminum intake, lot of work??

I'm thinking about pulling my Edelbrock intake which is currently painted silver. Has anyone ever stripped the paint and polished one up? I see that Eastwood sells a kit for $49 to polish one. If I thought that it would come out well, I would concider doing it. They also sell a coating to put on it after it's polished. Any thoughts?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2002, 07:50 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Alabama
Age: 55
Posts: 144
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

you can sand it smooth and then steel wool it until you get it polished,you can get it almost crome looking lots of elbow grease.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2002, 10:01 PM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

This is a tough job but can come out nicely. You need a die grinder (electric or pneumatic with big air supply), sand paper kit for porting or polishing, a buffing kit with cones and compounds. This is a tedious job depending on whay kind of intake you have. The easiest is a tunnel ram and the hardest is a something with alot of curves. The reason is to sand it, it is easiest when surfaces are flat without many corners or crevices. Take the cylinders shaped rolls of sand paper and go at those flat areas first. Then change to a tappered style of roll for the corners and edges. On both types of the above rolls, start with 80 or 100 grit to grind the casting bumps of and then gradually switch to higher grits as it starts to smooth out. If you go straight from cours to fine grit, you will spend a very very long time getting rid of those scratches from the course grit paper. After the 320 to 400 grit rolls have smoothed the surfaces as smooth as possible, switch to buffing. You got the hard part out of the way, now come the tedious part. Buffing takes many steps to get that perfect shine. Start with quick cutting compound and quick cutting cones to buff out the deep scratched from the sanding. After this move to a little finer, slower cutting compound and cone to remove the scratches from the heavy buffing. Move to even finer compound and cone until you reach the softest and finest compound and cone. Jeweller's rouge is the finest compound available and you will get the most brilliant finish possible. This however is easy to scratch so if you can afford it, get it clear coated by a coating shop. The same shops that do header and engine coatings do anodizing and clear coating. This will provide the best protection against scratches. Just remember that polished items are hard to keep shiny and actually look worse when dirty. What you can do is knock down the bumps from the castings and put a limited polish on the intake, only enough to remove the scratches from the sandpaper but not to the point that you use the intake to do your hair instead of a mirror. Okay bad humor but I have a Model A with a polished intake to the point that it is like a mirror but every time you try to polish it with a cloth, it gets scratches. My Mustang that I am building to race has an intake that I just knock the bumps down and put a light polish on it. It was less labor intensive and doesn't look bad when dirty but still shines fairly well. Eastwood does have that kit but I don't believe it includes the sandpaper rolls. Expect to spend $60 to $80 on supplie to this but it is less than having someone else do it. If you take it off, go ahead and port it just like you would a set of heads. I don't know about yours but my Victor for my 351W didn't come ported and I greatly improved flow efficiency buy doing it. Good Luck and hope it turns out well. Email me at blown69stang@yahoo.com if have questions.

[ May 27, 2002: Message edited by: blown69stang ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2002, 10:11 PM
4 Jaw Chuck's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 4,900
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 72 Times in 60 Posts
Post

Having done this before I only have one thing to say.

Paint it, it will need constant cleaning if you polish it. Bead blasted looks nice or paint it with some cast iron look paint. I would never ever in a million years ever go through the trouble to polish a part on an engine again. It sure looks nice...for about a month, then you will be in there with a rag and some polish trying to get it looking nice again. If you really must have it polished, do it then clear coat it with automotive clear and make sure you block the heat riser or you will burn the clear and turn it yellow. It seems everyone will do it once, maybe start with an alternator first and then see if you want to do something as big as an intake first.

Good luck F1!
__________________
Outlawed tunes from outlawed pipes
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2002, 10:20 PM
Halloweenking's Avatar
Fantastically cannibalistic!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spooksville
Posts: 1,353
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I've polished more aluminum in my life then I would ever want to admit.

Like Chuck said if you really want to polish it, clear it afterwards with some dupli color engine clear.

My advice is paint it, bead blast it, powder coat it, or get it coated with ceramics, or that Jet Hot coating. I say paint it or powder coat it, or even anodize it.

Faust
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2002, 05:02 AM
HotRodS10's Avatar
All Throttle...No Bottle
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SW Louisiana
Age: 42
Posts: 92
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thumbs up

I have a friend that had his intake powdercoated....looks really good and it shines too. Its not real expensive either if you can find someone in your area that does it. Good luck...HRS10
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2002, 06:37 AM
mac mac is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: tehachapi calif.
Posts: 7
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Ihave a show and go engine in my 34 ford. It's a pain to keep clean. If you must have a polished manifold take it to a polish shop and save yourself the hassle. The money you spend on supplies plus your labor is not worth it. MAC
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2002, 10:10 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

When I ordered my tunnel ram it was an extra 350.00 to have it polished, they said it is a pain to polish,so I used por-15 metal mask. It looks great and holds up well, it cost about 16.00 to do my intake.
Thanks
Drifter
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2002, 06:51 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Hampton, VA
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thumbs up

I was in the spot your in. I had mine blasted, then I had it powder coated (red) to match other eng. parts. I guess it is up to what you like...

Good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2002, 11:31 AM
bullheimer's Avatar
NEVER use credit cards!
 

Last journal entry: car with tt2's, (stockers going back on)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 2,529
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Post

if you haven't been talked out of it by now: use these wheels called "craytex" and you won't have to sand anything, it sands and polishes at the same time. BUT, I still have like 3 days polishing the pile of ****!! Mine still looks fine afterwards and i never cleaned it again. Now, it sits in a box in the garage. Maybe i should shine it up again and put it on my coffee table. Powder coating is great BUT YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT SANDBLASTED PROBABLY and i have been told by one engine guy that if you sandblast your intake you will blow up your engine cause you can't get out all the sand. I don't know, So I've been told. My friend that did it used it and it was okay, but he cleaned the dog crap out of it first. Is cast aluminum starting to look better????? A new or very clean intake might not have to be sandblasted, i don't know.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2002, 01:20 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

As others point out, it is a lot of work but you can do quite a bit of damage in a day. I have done several manifolds and transmission cases and they came out great. Key is to have them powder coated with clear gloss plastic and they will hold their shine indefinitely and clean very easily. With out that step, they are high maintenance items. Powder coating goes right over the polished surface - no sandblasting which would kill the shine!

[ May 28, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]

[ May 28, 2002: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2002, 10:56 PM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 93
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

You could always bead blast it but make sure you tape off the ports and you won't have to clean the inside of it. Use several layers of masking tape but be careful not to blast the tape covering the areas or you will break through and then you have to clean. Then anodize it. Has anyone seen powder coating polished smooth? It is thick to protect against knicks and scratches, fills and covers scratches, and they have powder that polishes just like anodizing but is more durable. You can even do they powder coating yourself by buying a cheap gun from Eastwood, some powder, and bake it in a large electric oven. Then you have to polish it the first time. What ever you do, if you try to do it yourself, you are going to be doing alot of work.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.