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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2011, 04:52 PM
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SCM1 Money? I thought maybe I could get you to do it for free just for the fun of doing it.RATS.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2011, 08:23 PM
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Just want to say that you guys are great! There was alot of good advise here. But I am happy to say that i am Swirl Free! Customer came in to check on it and was speechless. (I like it when they are that way). I went back to my wool compound pad with the Perfectit compound in purple bottle. Did that Once. and Hand rubbed it with a blue shop towel per Mr4speed..washed and pulled it outside to check.. almost no swirls.. bought a new yellow wool polishing pad and used finess it twice. cleaned with a damp microfbr and put on my black foam eggcrate for 3m perfectit II swirl mark remover (I swear it takes me longer to get the pads lined up than it does to polish.. jk).. Swirl marks are gone.. Thank God!!... And you guys of course.. :-) mr4speed .. i owe you a beer or something.. these are definitely trade secrets.. i will post pics after i get all the lights back in, bumpers back on and the door put back together.. thanks again!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2011, 08:47 PM
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swvalcon.. I'm gonna try some of the clear you are talking about.. the only that concerns me is the amount of product you are having to put on.. Plus i have alot of questions about it.. gonna check out the website. What clear gun/set up are you using for it.. I have a DeVilbiss Plus RP.. i have 1.2-1.4 for it. I also have an Iwata HVLP with a 1.2-1.3. I have to say that i havnt gotten used to the Iwata.. even though ive had it for about 5 years.. I know a lot of guys that use Sata for clears. I always seem to fall back on the Dev. to tell you the truth... the best spraying gun i have is a DeVilbiss Cup gun with a 1.8 tip :-).. Lays clear like glass and will not streak candies... go figure! THanks
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick895
I've had good results with the Meguiars MF System. 55 degrees might be a tad cold. If that isn't to your liking I've also had good results with the 2M compound, plus Pinnacle or Adams swirl removers, followed by Adams Fine Machine Polish. All on dark colors incl. black.
Buffing really sucks......espiecally after the first ten yrs ,it aint fun no more.....The best compounds I've used are Mcguires The swirl mark remover is fantastic but its not the cold weather that can be a problem I have the most trouble when its really hot 90's -100's, but those dark color polishes are just scratch fillers NOT removers and the swirls will be back...I use the foam pads too ,white for compounds and black for the SMR then a good hand glazing ....
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by wwilliams181
swvalcon.. I'm gonna try some of the clear you are talking about.. the only that concerns me is the amount of product you are having to put on.. Plus i have alot of questions about it.. gonna check out the website.
6 coats isn't necessary to make the product work. 3 is more than enough for a normal job to cut and buff.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 06:26 AM
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Yes you can easy get by on 2 coats of spi clear. THe only reason I went with so many coats on this one was thats what the customer wanted. He wanted that mile deep glass look. I've got a fender and door buffed and he's real happy with it. I'll try to post pictures of the job whan done.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:17 PM
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Thanks again everyone.. I uploaded a couple of pics if anyone is interested.. next project resumes tomorrow.. mid 50's Bmodel mack. replace rear cab support and repair rear cab panel .. wish me luck. :-)
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 08:52 PM
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Judging by the quality of your work ,I dont think you rely much on luck.
just let us know how you ended up solving the problem.....Buffing SUCKS and anything that makes it easier and better is good to know.
BTW ...LOVE that old truck
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 08:58 AM
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[QUOTE=deadbodyman]Judging by the quality of your work ,I dont think you rely much on luck.
]
I agree with DBM, skill has a bigger part than luck for you.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:39 AM
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:-) Thanks for the kind words DBM and Cyclopsblown.. Those macks belong to one of my best customers Rod Maddux. He owns a few MacK/Volvo Dealerships in the area. Really enjoy working on his stuff.. :-). On my swirl mark removal.. i believe the hand rub after compound was the ticket.. even though i felt like i was backing up while polishing with finessit. Had more swirls after that than i did with the hand rubbed compound.. in the end it worked out... It wasnt show car black but the customer really loved it. Even after he said he had never payed that much to get a car painted.. :-) he still had no complaints. :-). I would still love to take a class on Polishing.. Stick with one product and know when i start that i wont have any problems.. Trial and Error has taken me along way.. but dang its a ton of work.. Thanks Again Guys
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2011, 04:38 PM
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I want to try that blue pad and polish by 3M see if its better than the Mcguires SMR and black pad
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:14 AM
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At 55 degrees and below catalyst slows down and even stops linking with the clear resins. When buffing, getting the surface to 120 degrees is what is needed. Once you get to 135 degrees and above you are creating massive swirls that you may or may not get out. I know you can't sit there and take the surface temperature but once an area starts to gloss up move to the next area and let the area cool down before going back to it.
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