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SCM1 Money? I thought maybe I could get you to do it for free just for the fun of doing it.RATS.
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swvalcon.. I'm gonna try some of the clear you are talking about.. the only that concerns me is the amount of product you are having to put on.. Plus i have alot of questions about it.. gonna check out the website. What clear gun/set up are you using for it.. I have a DeVilbiss Plus RP.. i have 1.2-1.4 for it. I also have an Iwata HVLP with a 1.2-1.3. I have to say that i havnt gotten used to the Iwata.. even though ive had it for about 5 years.. I know a lot of guys that use Sata for clears. I always seem to fall back on the Dev. to tell you the truth... the best spraying gun i have is a DeVilbiss Cup gun with a 1.8 tip :-).. Lays clear like glass and will not streak candies... go figure! THanks
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Yes you can easy get by on 2 coats of spi clear. THe only reason I went with so many coats on this one was thats what the customer wanted. He wanted that mile deep glass look. I've got a fender and door buffed and he's real happy with it. I'll try to post pictures of the job whan done.
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Thanks again everyone.. I uploaded a couple of pics if anyone is interested.. next project resumes tomorrow.. mid 50's Bmodel mack. replace rear cab support and repair rear cab panel .. wish me luck. :-)
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Judging by the quality of your work ,I dont think you rely much on luck.
just let us know how you ended up solving the problem.....Buffing SUCKS and anything that makes it easier and better is good to know. BTW ...LOVE that old truck |
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:-) Thanks for the kind words DBM and Cyclopsblown.. Those macks belong to one of my best customers Rod Maddux. He owns a few MacK/Volvo Dealerships in the area. Really enjoy working on his stuff.. :-). On my swirl mark removal.. i believe the hand rub after compound was the ticket.. even though i felt like i was backing up while polishing with finessit. Had more swirls after that than i did with the hand rubbed compound.. in the end it worked out... It wasnt show car black but the customer really loved it. Even after he said he had never payed that much to get a car painted.. :-) he still had no complaints. :-). I would still love to take a class on Polishing.. Stick with one product and know when i start that i wont have any problems.. Trial and Error has taken me along way.. but dang its a ton of work.. Thanks Again Guys
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I want to try that blue pad and polish by 3M see if its better than the Mcguires SMR and black pad
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At 55 degrees and below catalyst slows down and even stops linking with the clear resins. When buffing, getting the surface to 120 degrees is what is needed. Once you get to 135 degrees and above you are creating massive swirls that you may or may not get out. I know you can't sit there and take the surface temperature but once an area starts to gloss up move to the next area and let the area cool down before going back to it.
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| Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos |
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