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Old 01-31-2011, 06:26 PM
Borat drives a Pontiac, U.S.&A
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Pontiac Rocker Arm Adjust.

I am getting around to adjusting the floating rocker arms on my Pontiac 400. Does the following procedure apply to all camshafts or only Pontiac cams?


In my case I am using a Summit 2802 cam with the following specs.

Hydraulic flat tappet
Duration at 050 inch Lift 224 int./234 exh.
Advertised Duration 282 int./292 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio 0.465 int./0.488 exh.

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Old 01-31-2011, 08:55 PM
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Are you using the stock Pontiac bottleneck studs or aftermarket straight shank studs?? One is adjustable and one isn't without modifications(either replacing the studs or the rocker nuts)

The procedure you linked will work with any hydraulic valvetrain that is adjustable. The order of adjustment charts in the link will only work with engines having thw 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order.
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Old 02-01-2011, 05:33 PM
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I am using aftermarket straight shank studs.

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Old 02-01-2011, 05:38 PM
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His article says to use polylocks to make your valve train adjustable.
His method is absolutley correct.You should read the article a few times first so you can get the full jest of what he is saying.
I adjust chevys the same way. Did one a few hours ago. runs perfect for a worn out truck.Customer was happy, thats what matters.
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:08 AM
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I posted this on another forum. and a copy and past to here with some pics

I am using a 1.52 roller tipped rocker with 7/16" BBC studs, stock push rods.
one way to set the lash is to run the nuts down to were they are just barley snug. and run the engine and set the lash of each rocker wile it running. this is way to messy, oil runs every ware .
I will try to show the best I can, how to set the lash with the engine not running.

first you need to find the #1 TDC (top dead center) pull all the spark plugs out, ( easier to turn ) and turn the crank to bring up the timing mark to zero. then pull the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is on the #1 plug wire. if its on #6 turn the crank one more time bringing it back to zero. and check under the cap to confirm your on #1 If this is a new build make sure both dots on the timing gears are up before the timing cover gos on.

once that is done you can set the lash or install your new rockers on the #'s 1,2,5,7 intake valve and #'s 1,3,4,8 exhaust valves.
here is what it will look like for the #1 cylinder @ TDC.
drivers side

pass side

use assembly grease to install all the parts. a cam lube is fine if its a running engine. but on a new build and the motor will be setting for a few months, use assembly grease. oils will run down off the parts in a few days. put grease on the ball before installing them and I dip the roller tip into a thick gear oil.

to to set the lash you, turn the push rod with your fingers while turning the nut. once you feel the presser on the rod stop (this is zero lash)

once there turn the nut a 1/2 turn to set a positive lash. I put the ratchet on facing south and turn it straight north , 1/2 turn and your done.

now to do the others you need to bring the #6 to TDC , turn the crank 1 time to bring the timing mark back to zero. now your rotor should be on the #6 plug wire.
repeat the steps above for the #'s 3,4,6,8 intake valves and #'s 2,5,6,7 Exhaust valves.
then your done

if you use a poly lock nuts you do this the same except the poly nut will have a allen set screw on the end that is tightened to the stud to lock it in place. I used bbc studs and nuts so I can use my stock valve covers. with poly locks you will need a taller cover.
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