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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:03 PM
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Are they the numbers in my first post? Ive been looking all over the carb...

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
At this point, I would pull the bowls, and metering plates off and blow out the jets, and passages.

Those o'rings were flooding your float bowls, and it does sound like your jet's are flowing good, as it is running very rich, though.

You might just get lucky, like finding a 'heads up penny', or a '4 leaf clover', and just need a quick o'ring change.

I would also suspect the power valve diaphragm being ruptured also.
Thanks, any chance you could tell me what model holley this is that i am working with?

I store the vehicle at my parents and its going to rain this coming monday here, is this something i might be able to finish today and tomorrow before it starts raining?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Are they the numbers in my first post? Ive been looking all over the carb...
It is the numbers stamped in the front of the air horn. IIRC 1850-?
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:11 PM
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send it to me, Rochester MN, Ive done this for 28 years and would be glad to help, you can send it to my Buisness if you like. I figure 100$ after parts, you send the kit, and carb, Ill do it. I don't know if I can offer this kind of stuff on this sight, guess I will find out. If you are interested we may have to go private for other details.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Thanks, any chance you could tell me what model holley this is that i am working with?

I store the vehicle at my parents and its going to rain this coming monday here, is this something i might be able to finish today and tomorrow before it starts raining?
If you have a air compressor and blow nozzle, and a way to clean the carb up, it can be done in a few hours. Carb spray may just work fine for you to clean it, but you will still need some compressed air.

Personally, I would get a Holley brand made kit, with new floats.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:26 PM
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You don't need holly original parts, call a parts store, usually they can give a clue at the numbers , Like beginning with#?................... gaskets are gaskets, and seals are seals, any part store is not going to sell you junk, Althuogh, Electronics, and other crap beware with aftermarket. They don't even know till its too late.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:52 PM
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saitek5678

the numbers are on the vertical plate which is about 7/16 wide,maybe more, between the throttle body and th float bowl , the numbers are stamped vertical, I'm thinking about 12 digits?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
It is the numbers stamped in the front of the air horn. IIRC 1850-?
Mine are:

1850-4
2496

Thanks for helping with the id.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Thanks, any chance you could tell me what model holley this is that i am working with?
You have a Model Number 4160. The Part number (p/n) is 1850-4. The Holley renew kit is p/n 37-119.

It came w/66 jets in the primary side, the secondary side is metered through a "plate" not jets like a 4150-type carb uses.

The power valve is a p/n 125-65. Some repair kits include the power valve, others might not. If you get a kit for your carb that does not contain a power valve, ask for a "#65 Holley power valve".

An exploded view of your carb is HERE.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
If you have a air compressor and blow nozzle, and a way to clean the carb up, it can be done in a few hours. Carb spray may just work fine for you to clean it, but you will still need some compressed air.

Personally, I would get a Holley brand made kit, with new floats.

I have already begun tearing it down. I removed the carb, removed the float bowls and started on removing the gaskets (they are oooooooolllllllddddddd). I stopped for today so i can go to town, clean up and start fresh tomorrow after doing as much research as possible tonight on how to rebuild this.

1) There is a nickel colored plate of metal that was inside one of the float bowls. It has a very odd fastener head (in-law called it a "figure 8" fastener). What is this called? And what is behind it? Anything that i shouldn't be messing with?

2) Anyone see a good link/writeup on rebuilding these? I see borders has a Holley Model XXXX rebuild manual, but id rather not make the 40 minute drive tonight to get that. Or any tips for me? Anything helps when its your first time
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
I have already begun tearing it down. I removed the carb, removed the float bowls and started on removing the gaskets (they are oooooooolllllllddddddd). I stopped for today so i can go to town, clean up and start fresh tomorrow after doing as much research as possible tonight on how to rebuild this.

1) There is a nickel colored plate of metal that was inside one of the float bowls. It has a very odd fastener head (in-law called it a "figure 8" fastener). What is this called? And what is behind it? Anything that i shouldn't be messing with?

2) Anyone see a good link/writeup on rebuilding these? I see borders has a Holley Model XXXX rebuild manual, but id rather not make the 40 minute drive tonight to get that. Or any tips for me? Anything helps when its your first time

Can you post a pic of this?

Be sure to keep the old gaskets to match up with the new ones in the kit.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 05:04 PM
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"Nickle-colored plate" fastened to the rear of the main body(inside the float bowl) is the rear metering plate, and those are "clutch head" screws that are holding it to the main body. You will need to remove this plate in order to clean the old metering plate gasket off the main body, this gasket also serves as the float bowl to main body gasket at its outside perimeter. There will also be a thin steel plate and thin gasket the same shape as the "nickle-colored" plate, stacked together on the larger metering plate/main body gasket. The metering plate, thin gasket, and thin steel plate can be left together if they look intact, these rarely go bad, but you have to remove this assembly to remove the main metering gasket/combo bowl gasket.

If you don't have a clutch head screwdriver, find an old small phillips head screwdriver that will fit fairly snug after you have "flattened" the point with a file or bench grinder. It will get you by in a pinch.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 06:12 PM
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Thats its 'ericnova'. I took a pic, but i googled metering plate and i see exactly what was asking about. I think the home depot near me carries a clutch head screwdriver, so i may be in luck. Otherwise, thanks for the tip on the phillips
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
Can you post a pic of this?

Be sure to keep the old gaskets to match up with the new ones in the kit.
Ill try to do this from here out. The gaskets holding the float bowls on are beyond toast. They bowls must have been pretty dry for awhile, because these gaskets are not coming off easily.

Is their a trick to getting these off more easily?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Ill try to do this from here out. The gaskets holding the float bowls on are beyond toast. They bowls must have been pretty dry for awhile, because these gaskets are not coming off easily.

Is their a trick to getting these off more easily?
Spray them with a little carb spray, and while they are still wet, they come off real easy.

The gaskets I was referring to are the metering plate to the body gaskets. You will need to match up the holes, and slots.
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