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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 08:09 PM
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The gasket between the throttle plate and the main body has to match up exactly, as do all the gaskets.

There are often several similar, but not identical, gaskets included in the rebuild kit. This is so the same kit (and part number) can service multiple carbs. It's cheaper to include a couple extra gaskets than stock a hundred different kits.

There is a link to an exploded view in post #39.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You have a Model Number 4160. The Part number (p/n) is 1850-4. The Holley renew kit is p/n 37-119.

It came w/66 jets in the primary side, the secondary side is metered through a "plate" not jets like a 4150-type carb uses.

The power valve is a p/n 125-65. Some repair kits include the power valve, others might not. If you get a kit for your carb that does not contain a power valve, ask for a "#65 Holley power valve".

An exploded view of your carb is HERE.
Awesome post!

That just about wraps up any question i might have on this.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
Spray them with a little carb spray, and while they are still wet, they come off real easy.

The gaskets I was referring to are the metering plate to the body gaskets. You will need to match up the holes, and slots.
Thanks again, i hope to have this running this afternoon so long as everything goes to plan.

How far into the carb will i be going with the rebuild kit?
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Thanks again, i hope to have this running this afternoon so long as everything goes to plan.

How far into the carb will i be going with the rebuild kit?

just as far, as you think, you need to.
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:57 AM
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So far i have removed all the gaskets from both the float bowls, and their mated surface on the body. I have also cleaned up the metering body gasket, and its mated surface. I started cleaning the fuel valve and seat assembly, but then realized i got new ones in my rebuild kit

Im stuck though, i have gotten as far as re-assembling the fuel valve and seat assembly into the float bowls but i cant figure out where the "fuel valve seat 'o' ring seal" goes since when i removed mine they were rotted out. Its item 13 in the diagram here:

http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ded%20View.pdf

It does not mount inside the shaft where the fuel valve goes (i dont think anyways, as their are no grooves where it would fit). Also i put it on the bottom of the fuel valve after i installed it, but it just looks goofy and blocks most of the valves outlet area.

I can get pics if you need them, i just didnt get any because im covered in gas and the camera is $$$.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:35 PM
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#13 is a little "C"-clip. Are you talking about the O-ring that go onto the outside of the needle and seat assembly (#137)?

If so, here's an image of a needle and seat assembly w/the O-ring installed.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:37 PM
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Ahh...i didnt look closely at the schematic posted online by holley and the one they have in the kit. Opps, i screwed that up.

#13 in my kit is #137 on this schematic. And the picture you posted is exactly what i have, and how things are assembled.

Just to be certain, their are no other o-rings that go with the assembly correct?
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
Just to be certain, their are no other o-rings that go with the assembly correct?
Correct.

There are, however, thin gaskets (#133 & #135) that go under the lock screw #132 and the adjustment nut #134. Note there are differences in their diameters. See the exploded view.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Correct.

There are, however, thin gaskets (#133 & #135) that go under the lock screw #132 and the adjustment nut #134. Note there are differences in their diameters. See the exploded view.
Thanks for the fyi, i was able to get those as well

The good news:

Its back on the bel-air and it runs again!

The bad news:

It runs just like it did before hand (maybe a little better...or it could be my brain tricking me).

In all fairness, i have not done anything to tune it since i have no idea what to begin with. I did set the fuel valves like cook explained in this thread @ 3.5 threads out.

Anyone have a next step for me?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 02:58 PM
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Check your accelerator pump adjustment. It should be set with a .010 feeler gauge, between the pump lever, and the adjuster. This clearance should be checked each time you make an idle speed adjustment.

How far out are your idle mixture screws? Turn them all the way back in, and then back out 1 full turn.
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Old 08-16-2009, 03:25 PM
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I put the idle screws all the way in, then backed them out one full turn.

I am not able to check the clearance today on the accel pump since i do not have feeler gauges.

Now that i have made those adjustments however, it wont fire. Just cranks and every now and then chugs a few times but nothing more.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:05 PM
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How far open are your throttle plates, the adjustment is made with the idle speed screw. It maybe open too far, or closed all of the way.

What happens when you push the throttle a little bit while cranking?
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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Well then i dont think i adjusted the right screw(s)....let me take a pic of what i turned.
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Old 08-16-2009, 04:17 PM
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Alright first pic is drivers side. These screws are near the front of the carb, about a 1/2" from the throttle plate.





Those are the screws i turned all the way in, then back out one full turn.


After reading what you typed above, i kind of felt dumb...because now i think you mean i should be turning this screw right?



It is on the throttle linkage.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:37 PM
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The first 2 screws were the ones I said to set at 1 turn out, those are the idle mixture screws. Back these out 1/4 of a turn, at a time, and try starting it.

The last adjustment check was for the screw you are pointing at.

Simply look down through the carb, and look to see how wide the gap is at the throttle plate.

Take the fuel level sight screws out, and see where the fuel level is.
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