Poor performance, gas smell, black smoke... - Page 5 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #61 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:45 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks again!

I will make one more attempt at this today, my wife gets out of work in 45 minutes and i have to pick her up.

Could you by chance, tell me what the assembly with the red/pink spring is/does? It is considerably looser (more play) than before i took the carb off and replaced the float bowl gaskets today. Its in the last pic.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #62 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:56 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
That is the accelerator pump adjuster. In that picture it looks like it is a little tight. This will be pumping fuel in too fast.

In your earlier pictures, you could see a few threads showing on the top of it. Now it looks like the nut is even with the top of the threads.

Keep in mind, making any adjustments to the idle speed screw, changes this adjustment.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #63 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 04:57 PM
ericnova72's Avatar
More for Less Racer
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: S.W. Lower Michigan
Age: 47
Posts: 8,914
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 19
Thanked 364 Times in 334 Posts
Spring is accelerator pump override spring. It should be adjusted so that there is no slop between its head (plus 1/4 turn preload )and the pump lever it pushes against. You did put the spring(different spring) back inside the pump diaphram housing, correct??
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #64 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:01 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I got as far as 2.5 turns out on each one, but it never fired. I am beginning to get a gas smell as well, flooded maybe?

The throttle plate looks like it has about 1/8" opening, but its hard to say. I am judging that based on the angel of the butterfly's, i cant actually see below the throttle plate.

I will adjust the accel pump to match what you are describing if i get time tonight/the next day i get time.

Anything i should be thinking about while i have some down time?

I just realized that i forgot to check the fuel levels in the bowls...something else to look at.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #65 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:03 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Spring is accelerator pump override spring. It should be adjusted so that there is no slop between its head (plus 1/4 turn preload )and the pump lever it pushes against. You did put the spring(different spring) back inside the pump diaphram housing, correct??
I didnt pull the housing apart, i was a little leary looking at the diagram. Sounds like maybe i am due to pull the carb again, and try and do a full rebuild this time instead of just the fuel valves/float bowl gaskets?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #66 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 05:12 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Did you install the new power valve from your kit?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #67 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
Did you install the new power valve from your kit?
No i did not, another cause of this?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #68 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I was just going back and looking at the carb before i removed it and noticed i hooked up the linkage differently. So yet another thing that could be causing problems.

This is the before:





This is the after:

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #69 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:25 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
I did set the fuel valves like cook explained in this thread @ 3.5 threads out.

Anyone have a next step for me?
Set the float level by removing the sight plugs (one at a time) and adjust the float level to where there is just a trickle of fuel coming from the open hole at idle.

A bench adjustment should have been made w/the floats assembled into the float bowl, the float bowl is then carefully inverted and the float level is adjusted by setting the float to be parallel w/the bottom (what is now the bottom, w/the float bowl inverted) of the float bowl.

More from Holley HERE.

And a decent page on the Holley, w/details and adjustments HERE.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #70 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 06:38 PM
carsavvycook's Avatar
My 2 cents worth
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Lakeside, CA
Age: 57
Posts: 2,855
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 2
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgs240
No i did not, another cause of this?

Yes, One 'fart' or 'backfire' back through the carb, can cause it's diagram to rupture. This will really make them run rich. They do make a kit you can buy, that will solve this problem on the older Holley carbs. It consists of a drill, a tap, and a plug with instructions.

Switching your linkage back to the correct hole will help. LOL I have done this same thing myself.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #71 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 07:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Set the float level by removing the sight plugs (one at a time) and adjust the float level to where there is just a trickle of fuel coming from the open hole at idle.

A bench adjustment should have been made w/the floats assembled into the float bowl, the float bowl is then carefully inverted and the float level is adjusted by setting the float to be parallel w/the bottom (what is now the bottom, w/the float bowl inverted) of the float bowl.

More from Holley HERE.

And a decent page on the Holley, w/details and adjustments HERE.
Thanks cobalt, ill be reading plenty tonight.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #72 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 07:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SE MI
Posts: 42
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carsavvycook
Yes, One 'fart' or 'backfire' back through the carb, can cause it's diagram to rupture. This will really make them run rich. They do make a kit you can buy, that will solve this problem on the older Holley carbs. It consists of a drill, a tap, and a plug with instructions.

Switching your linkage back to the correct hole will help. LOL I have done this same thing myself.
I had a pretty decent backfire two days ago while i was trying to start it just before i took the carb off...but then again it was running pretty bad before that as well.

Either way, it looks like i will be getting pretty familiar with this carb
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HI!!!! smell that smoke? kik_start Introduce Yourself 2 12-02-2008 08:01 PM
strong exhaust smell and smoke after idling??? 69elcaminoss Engine 6 04-08-2004 03:12 PM
black Smoke and Stalling jrm123180 Engine 11 03-09-2004 11:41 PM
Motel 6: Would you like your room to smell like smoke, or just cat pee? bullheimer Hotrodders' Lounge 8 01-02-2004 05:11 PM
Black Engine Smoke when put to the Floor 91formula Engine 12 03-18-2003 08:01 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.