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Old 11-03-2002, 05:40 PM
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Ok I replaced the vaccum advance on the dist. and now timing is working the way it should. Although the popping up thru carb is still there. Car is running good now except for this popping in carb and it only happens on acceleration. Could this be in the carb???
Breakin was at 2000 rpm for 20 min. as soon as it fired up and engine is brand new.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2002, 07:05 PM
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Is it a one time hesitation/pop each time you accellerate? Does it vary or change if you lightly accellerate or stand on her? Now that your distributor is working properly what is your base timing set at?
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Old 11-03-2002, 09:14 PM
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Is it at all possible that the accelerator pump on his carb isn’t working correctly and when he jumps on it its creating a lean condition?? Just a thought…
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Old 11-04-2002, 07:06 AM
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Is the popping occurring all the time while revving the motor or just while under a load? If it's just under a load than I would guess it's something in the secondary ignition. Maybe a bad plug wire or cracked or incorrectly gapped spark plug. Just to add some clarity. I had a customers car once with new plugs and wires that had this very same condition. Went nuts looking at everything. Ended up being a small crack in the insulator on one of the new plugs.

[ November 04, 2002: Message edited by: engineczar ]</p>
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Old 11-04-2002, 11:45 AM
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Try changing the entire distributor out and make sure you have a good cap and rotor on it.
I had one that would pop and cut up, come to find out it had a bad wire in the distributor. I got one at auto zone for about $90 plus the old one..
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Old 11-04-2002, 03:02 PM
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Ok,think I might be another step closer to the popping up thru carb. The car was 180hp I took it to 330hp 9.5:1 comp.by using dart iron eagle heads 64cc,flat top pistons,rv cam & alum.intake. The car still had 87 octane gas in it. Just for ****s & giggles I dumped a can of Out Law octane boost in tank and drove car up the road and back and it seems 98% better. Could this have been my problem all a long????
PS: timing is set at 12 btdc.
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Old 11-04-2002, 03:45 PM
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More than likely, you're lean on acceleration...

Steve & the Rockette...
Too many to list...
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Old 11-04-2002, 06:40 PM
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For Q-jet set up go here...
http://www.geocities.com/gtopercy/Pi...rajetTech.html

no affiliation, etc...

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Old 11-08-2002, 04:52 PM
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I agree with BOBCRMAN Canzus & Harlequin you have a lean condition.
Hesitation, stalling, stumbling, flatspot, or deadspot during acceleration: Backfiring or spitback up through carb.
1) Vacuum leak. 1) Check for vacuum leak & fix it.
2) Ignition timing retarded too far. 2) Reset timing.
3) Accelerator pump nozzle has dirt in it. 3) Clean out the nozzle tip.
4) Accelerator pump cup swollen up from contact with bad gas or chemicals. 4) Replace the pump cup.
5) Economizer jet too small or partly blocked. 5) Clean out economizer jet & check the size.
6) Choke pull-off open too far. 6) Adjust the pull-off tighter.
7) Secondary throttle plates not closing all the way. 7) Fix it.
8) Vacuum hoses hooked up wrong. 8) Connect up right. Be especially careful of the EGR & Dist. connections: sometimes the pipe locations are reversed on Rochesters.
9) Idle jet partly blocked with dirt. 9) Clean out the jet & any other dirt that is in there.
10) Distributor timing not advancing properly. (worn breaker plate, worn shaft, pin hole in diaphram, crack in hose, etc.) 10) Check distributor and all related systems carefully. Replace defective parts.
Hesitation, deadspot or stalling that only seems to occur after the first mile of warmup. 1) Defective electric assist on choke 1) Replace it.
2) Defective accelerator pump (low output). 2) Replace it.
3) Float level setting very low. 3) Adjust to factory specs.
4) Bad ignition condenser. 4) Replace it.
5) Plugged heat crossever system in manifold. 5) Inspect and clean passages in the intake manifold and heads. Test heat riser valve, replace if defective.
6) Defective source of hot air up to the carburetor. 6) Check and replace as necessary: heat shroud duct, temperature sensor, vacuum door moter, manifold vacuum supply.
7) Defective thermal switch. 7) Check all thermal switches, especially those connected with the distributor, EGR, & vacuum motors in the air cleaner housing.

[ November 11, 2002: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
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