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Old 05-27-2013, 03:18 PM
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Por 15 Engine paint

Found myself trying this paint by advise from you guessed it a body shop supply. It's the best on the market,,but they never mentioned how thick it is or how bad the Chevy orange looked. I've always used high heat spray bombs with decent results as far as lasting and the vibrant orange has always been great. So I clean the completed motor, debured(smoothed out)much of the heads and block, rid all assembly oil and dirt with a good hot soapy wash followed by using the prep solution Pro 15 sells and it leaves the casting coated with white powder or suface rust, this was after blowing down the block after a good hot water rinse to remove the Pro 15 prep solution(using lots of clean filtered high pressure air)to dry the casting. Me thinks to myself-this surface sucks with all this white crap and that rust(flash rust no biggy), so out comes the air tool with a curly bristle(small)wire brush and we rid the casting of said powder and surface rust, smile and open said can of Pro 15 high heat engine paint only to find sparying it was out of the question as it is too thick without thinning and I'm a night owl so no thinner, and not instructions as to what thinner is compatable on the can(stupid eh?). So I brush the stuff on and I would never brush an engine when modern tec has the spray can but I'm in all the way now. Next day second coat as it requires 8hrs.beteen coats but what's this color the ugliest Chevy orange I've ever seen. Sorry it sucks and my question is can I spary another orange onto this base of Pro 15 high heat or will it go the hell in a hand bag?? It sugests 4-7days cure time before starting the engine and time is not really my issue but this is a real nice 327 that deserves a better color than that.

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Last edited by old guy; 05-27-2013 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:49 AM
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OK so I put a second coat on and my advice to anyone interested in using the Pro 15 engine enamel is to brush it on sparingly on the first coat and do a thorought second coat covering any bare metal that you may have missed. A third touch up coat may be your best bet, even though this paint is too thick to spray paint on with out thinning it runs from any spots that are applied too heavily and from any cavity that holds the exess paint(around bolts or ridges). Thinning this paint for spraying would probably increase the runs as the tack time is quite slow to come unthinned and thinning is anyones guess. This paint color(Chevy orange)reminds me of an implement or farm tractor paint color and maybe this product was originally formulated from this segment of paints(tough, not pretty). I used a 3/4" brush with an angle cut and natural bristles, a good quality brush from a craft store(Micheal's has them)and don't take too much paint in your holder at one time as it gets gummy when exposed to the open air, let it gets runny on the substaight when you least expect it to . Cover the can as soon as you mix and pour the paint into your cup holder. One pint will be lots of paint for one motor. Personaly a good quality rattle can is a much better choice for the job and the color for Chevy orange is more vibrant but Pro 15 high heat engine enamel may adhere better and last longer, so time will tell on that story.

Last edited by old guy; 05-28-2013 at 02:01 AM.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:42 AM
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More por-15 woes. I personally have had it with por-15. For similar issues as you mentioned.

I'm currently using their caliper paint. As you described, it is hard to brush it on without runs and get coverage. If you follow the directions to a T, you need to apply each coat within 3-4 hours. In the case of my calipers, that would be to apply 1st coat of por-15 rust prot..wait 3-4 hours, apply 2nd coat, wait 3-4 hours, apply 1st coat of caliper paint, wait 3-4 hours, apply 2nd coat, wait 3-4 hours...... I'm sorry but I don't believe I could ever follow that guideline. Especially that it takes about 30-45 minutes to brush on a single coat effectively.

So after each coat fully dries (ie the next night), I have to scuff it up with red scotchbrite and reclean with metal clean before the next coat. It is very laborsome.

Plus, I have yet to get any of their silver colors to lay smooth with no brush-strokes. Black is not an issue, silver is! Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Tried mixing it forever, laying it smooth, laying it thick, etc etc.

Sorry this was a vent for me.

Kevin
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:30 AM
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This is all good info, thanks for sharing your troubles. Did you get any/many brush strokes in the paint or did it smooth?

I painted my engine with single stage urethane about 10 years ago. It's held up wll.o flaking. I have found with most high heat paints that they are soft, easy to scratch.
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:57 PM
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Here's some directions I found on their site. Personally I'd spray it as brushing would leave brush marks imo and just make it look like crap.
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/e...directions.pdf
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:20 AM
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Thanks for the intrest in this thread, of course after posting the first segment the related topics at the bottom of the screen gave me more insight and was helpful and I did read another thread that the experienced painters had about mixing paint products so toping this Pro 15 with another brand would surely be the worst. Not that the thread was talking about this type of paint but after using this Pro 15 you know that it's a different animal so keep it simple.

I'm sure spraying this paint would definetly be different than brushing it but the company is more than vague about spraying(had read the Pro 15 sight when I was trying to get info on thinning)that's why the brushing was my only option and you use so little of it on each coat you'd be forever cleaning your gun, maybe the thinner would dry(flash off)quicker but I've got my doubts.

As far as brush marks that seems to be no issue(main selling feature)but watch for cheap brushes loosing hair(it wil keep you buisy). The major problem is runs, go back 10 times and another run, finish the coat leave it for the specified 8 hrs.for the next coat and crap runs from no where. Too thick to spray and yet the lack of flash off is trouble x 2. I'd change the name from "Chevy orange" to "Runny orange". I'll add some pictures soon, as it turned out fine just too much work. The post about the one part eurothane is something I'd try on a show motor, after smoothing the motor castings if there was a high heat clear I'd cover the shiny casting just to be different(just a thought).

Sorry for the long post but every engine need paint. Last point the acid prep works good but DO NOT get it on any aluminum parts or plated finishes they will be toast, that info is in the instructions so take notice.
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:04 AM
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Old guy,
Painting an engine does not require engine paint, if this will make your life easier.

Be it an aluminum block or cast, I do them the same each way.

No Need to sand.
No need for any acid.

!) Clean and clean and clean again and then clean again, it is the most important thing you can do.
2) Let engine set for an hour after it is dry and you have also taken a air blower to it.
3) Spray one or two coats of epoxy and let set 4-12 hours (very important on the set time and plenty of reasons to do so but no need to get into that here)
4) Tack and spray your choice, base, SS or aerosol can.

Personally, I only do base clear, as most jobbers can mix the Chev or Ford and Pontiac (2) blue colors.
I did one time use an aerosol can on a GTO that I restored and after install, the car deserved better, so I pulled the engine back out and based cleared.
If your engine gets hot enough to burn off the epoxy and base clear, the engine will be shot, so it don't matter, anyways.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK View Post
Old guy,
Painting an engine does not require engine paint, if this will make your life easier.

Be it an aluminum block or cast, I do them the same each way.

No Need to sand.
No need for any acid.

!) Clean and clean and clean again and then clean again, it is the most important thing you can do.
2) Let engine set for an hour after it is dry and you have also taken a air blower to it.
3) Spray one or two coats of epoxy and let set 4-12 hours (very important on the set time and plenty of reasons to do so but no need to get into that here)
4) Tack and spray your choice, base, SS or aerosol can.

Personally, I only do base clear, as most jobbers can mix the Chev or Ford and Pontiac (2) blue colors.
I did one time use an aerosol can on a GTO that I restored and after install, the car deserved better, so I pulled the engine back out and based cleared.
If your engine gets hot enough to burn off the epoxy and base clear, the engine will be shot, so it don't matter, anyways.
Bang on Barry...the last 2 major builds I did the engines where both painted body color....tri coat base/clear....no need for any High heat paint on blocks or intake manifolds. If you want to paint headers or exhaust manifolds...totally different story.

Ray
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:22 PM
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Woulda Coulda Shoulda

Thanks Barry you confirmed my thinking 100%. You walk into the body supply once in a blue one, ask a dumb question and walk out with the best engine paint sold.

Did the work as labeld, it turned out fine but for me the epoxy on a small job like this seemed too difficult, the one component Pro15 seemed the ticket & I was going to spray it. When you paint all the time the tools are in your hands before you think about it. For me painting is a mountain of effort, mechanical or welding not so much.

I posted with the hope someone won't take the same rought. For a quick job-rattle can works,,for the best job use Barry's method. These pictures are: 1st.&2nd. w/one coat, 3rd.w/two coats, 4th.& 5th.finished. There are better methods for sure, next time your way. In the end it would have been the same amout of work even for me.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:21 PM
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Old Guy,
The main thing is it looks like the engine turned out good!

Sometimes its not how you get there but just getting there!
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:03 PM
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I'm with BarryK too. I only use auto paint. Holds up to UV (street rods with engine exposed) and cleans easier too. I have not used epoxy one yet, but see not reason not too. I start with a clean bare surface and shoot a little etching primer on and paint it. I get very good results for years to come.
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:40 AM
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POR 15 Engine Pain

This is all fine for a trailer queens. Layering all that primer and paint seals the block and if it was running hot it's going to run even hotter. I would acid wash the block, then apply color, base coat, ss, engine paint and then clear it with the AG 111. This industrial clear has much more chemical and acid resistance. It looks a foot deep, and allows the engine to breathe.

Last edited by Yossarian; 05-30-2013 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:50 PM
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I have seen some good advice but would like to find someone that has used POR-15 10+ years ago and find out how it lasts. We are all in the job long term. I don’t want to pull the engine out and do all that prep every time it starts to look bad. Also my machine shop put a base primer on the block and I heard that if you use a different companies paint then the two have a good chance of interacting and cause flaking etc.

As far as cleaning, years ago I started using Gumout, I live by it. It cleans grease, oil, tar, paint and a lot more. Has anybody every used it on carb, it takes off the varnish and also evaporates fast and leaves no residue.
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:19 PM
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Trailer queens? I have a very nice car, but it is not a trailer queen and my engine (and past engines) runs just fine without any heating issues.

Amxrick: I have also used Shafers citrol cleaner on carbs - makes them look new again. Also works well on raw porous aluminum (such as intakes).

I have used Por 15 engine paint, but stopped because it didn't last and looked bad after a year or 2. It dulls out and will has flaked (not sure of the cause).
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:34 PM
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Welcome to the forum Yossarian and amxrick...it's always good to see new members here.

All I can say in response to both of your posts is that back in the day, GM, Ford, Chrysler...all the manufacturers painted their engines. The paint eventually, (after many years and miles of driving and hot and cold conditions...over and over again) did flake off. The technology of the paint industry today is much more advanced than what it was in the days gone by and using today's paint technology properly on an engine will ensure that it will last. Not just for "Trailer Queen's" but for vehicles that are driven on a regular basis. If you all want tried, tested and true results, read what has been posted by BarryK...If anyone on this forum knows, it would be Barry, he builds the paint. If you have a better system, I'm always happy to listen and will keep an open mind.

Best Regards
Ray
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