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-   -   POR-15 or Powder coat (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/por-15-powder-coat-45431.html)

Decho 08-11-2004 07:05 PM

POR-15 or Powder coat
 
I'm prepping the frame of my '50 chevy coupe and I'm at the cross road of what to use for a coating. Of course I could paint it but paint is not as durable as I'd like because this is going to be a driver.
So my question is: should I use POR-15 or Powder coat??

Kustomizer 08-11-2004 07:59 PM

POR-15???
 
Hi- I've now done two complete frame-ups using POR-15, and I've got some very interesting results that they don't want you to know...<br>&nbsp;<br>

First, let me tell you, I've read a report from some company that Eastwood carries, that supposedly outperforms POR-15, and I'd believe it (couldn't be much worse). I don't recall the name of the product, but I'd think about checking out http://www.eastwood.com and look for the technote on rustproofing (I have NOT tried this stuff yet). See: http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?ite...ORY&itemID=372
<br>&nbsp;<br>

Now, my results show decent performance on metals that have been blasted (I use aluminum-oxide), especially THICK metals like frames or wheel drums. But it really blows on anything sheet-metal related (shrinkage over time). I found that completely following their application recommendation (descale, then use Marine-Clean degreaser, then use Metal-Ready etcher, then cover with POR-15) does no better long-term than if you skipped all that to begin with!<br>&nbsp;<br>

I've tried "pouring" POR-15 into places like blind frame joints or in-between inner and outer fenders. It doesn't work, in-fact it probably causes the metal to rust underneath the paint quicker from trapped moisture. I've also tried their recommendation, "use POR-15 as resin... mix your fiberglass cloth in it." The "resin" method does work, but it's nothing I'd ever admit in public to.<br>&nbsp;<br>

Finally, I recommend one of the following:<br>
Try the eastwood stuff yourself<br>
Use a high-quality epoxy primer from Dupont or PPG (I'm certified as a Dupont Chroma Refinisher, so I'm partial to Dupont)<br>
You completely sandblast the metal (increasing the metal's surface-area), use the Metal-Ready etcher, wash-off the etcher, then BRUSH (don't spray, it has to be thinned to spray, causing even more shrinkage 3-months from now) on the POR-15.<br>&nbsp;<br>

For the record, I've sprayed it, don't even think about it (shrinkage, plus the fumes are unbelievable), because it's no-where near as durable as a brush. Lastly, keep in mind that you'll have to "paint the paint" if the POR-15 is ever to be exposed to sunlight. I did a front radiator support on a '90 Chevy pickup with it, and I had white-chalk instead of the black POR-15 within 3-months (and the radiator support never saw direct sunlight).<br>&nbsp;<br>

Ooooh, almost forgot... I've used the POR15 engine paint on two engines now... THAT stuff is actually pretty good, and bullet-proof. I did some accessories (like pulleys and accessory-holders plus heads and intake. That stuff did real well.<br>&nbsp;<br>

Hope it helps! -Kustomizer

Centerline 08-12-2004 06:47 AM

My experience with POR 15 is just the opposite. I've used it on frames and engines and find it to be durable and tough. Sprayed the frame on my pickup last year and there is no shrinkage and no chips. I can't even chip it when I hit it with a hammer.

All that said, that doesn't mean its the best stuff out there. POR is not the latest technology and does have some problems when exposed to direct sunlight (doesn't hurt it's rust inhibiting capabilities but just chalks the color) and it does not hold up well when exposed to salt over long periods of time. Other than that it works very well.

Centerline

EBlack36 08-12-2004 07:09 AM

I have about the same experience as centerline with por 15, I sprayed it on my frame about 15 or 16 years ago and find that it seems to be very durable. If I had my choice, I would have powder coated the frame, but at the time I did not have the money to do that and this seemed to be a good alternative.

bigbird 08-12-2004 08:27 AM

I blasted my frame and then painted Por-15 and when it came time to weld the new front end on, I had to GRIND the paint off.

To get into those hidden areas I used a small pump/spray plastic bottle (disposable) and it worked great.

I'm going to top coat the frame later with orange to match the body.

I've used Por-15 on lots of other stuff including a homemade trailor I haul wood with. The trailor sits outside all year in the woods and it still looks great.

willys36@aol.com 08-12-2004 09:04 AM

I powder coat everything except body sheet metal - frames, suspension, fender wells, engine blocks & heads, clear powder coat all my polished aluminum like tranny cases, valve covers, etc. Impervious to virtually every chemical (including brake fluid, great for master cylinders) except paint stripper which takes it off easily. Infinite color selection including candies, no UV problems, penetrates inside tubulars due to the electrostatic charged powder. And is about as tough as you can get.

dinger 08-12-2004 10:49 AM

I'm with Willys on this one, I had the frame, crossmembers, almost everything that is bolted to my frame powdercoated. I've dropped tools, parts, banged against, (I'm a klutz sometimes)no chips. There's so many colors available you should be able to find just about any color to match your needs. Dan

Dep ME 08-18-2004 02:18 AM

About the only thing I use on frames is Zero Rust. It stops rust dead, is a 1-part paint, available in gallons, quarts, and rattle can. The best part is that it is inexpensive (about $50/gallon). There is so many pluses that I don't even consider POR15 anymore.

It dries to a semi-gloss. For those areas where I want a gloss, I coat it with their Crystal Cote.

Dennis

sodas38 08-18-2004 10:27 AM

I'm a fan of POR15. I've used it on 2 frames now and it seemed to work out great. For gosh sakes wear gloves when you paint this stuff on because you'll have to take the skin with you if you get it on your hands, etc. It seems to work best on thicker metals, frames, rear end, brak drums, etc. I did use it on a gas tank however, and it seemed to work out fine, looked nice too. I will be using it on my 38 Chevy when it comes time to paint the frame. Again, I have applied it only with a brush, and I would recommend using a decent brush. I used cheap brushes and I was constantly picking out brush hairs.

53LEDSLED 08-20-2004 12:55 PM

i liked the way POR-15 worked out with my frame but then again its my first frame, i never tried enything else, and i its only been a coulple of weeks sence i painted it so i dont know how its gona hold up? but besides that it looks good.

oldfard 08-21-2004 08:14 AM

About ten years ago I tried POR-15 on my frame. Blasted it and prepped it as per directions. Sprayed it from a gun thinning with inexpensive lacquer thinner. (This was before POR-15 offered their own thinner. At that time they recommended lacquer thinner, but now they recommend their own proprietary thinner for spraying.) Top coated with enamel. And note that you MUST apply the top coat during the POR-15 cure time period or the top coat will eventually peel off as it does not get good adhesion over cured POR-15. The results were excellent and the frame looks as good today as it did when first applied. That said, there were a few problems. First, I ran out of time and could not finish the job the first day. I let some POR paint mixed with thinner sit in the gun overnight and finished spraying the next day. I thought it would be OK but after several days the area which I painted on the second day was still tacky and remains so today. So I would recommend that if you thin the paint then use it immediately of discard it. Second, it is a bear to clean up the spray gun, your hands, and anything else which gets messy, so follow the directions carefully and clean up any spills, your spray gun, your hands, etc., BEFORE the POR-15 cures. Third, it should be emphasized that POR-15 is not something which should be used as a temporary coating on parts which you plan on doing more work on later. You cannot sand it and touch it up as you would in the case where for example you wanted to do some more welding on the part later. It just won't work. For example, one time my car broke down and I had to call a ramp truck. The operator hooked his loading chain onto one of the shock moounting brackets. After he finished unloading and removed the hook, the POR-15 coating was torn. I touched it up but could never blend it in as could be done with a regular paint. I would have liked to try powder coating but the equipment was too expensive at that time. Now I will probably try powder coat on my next frame job as the tools and equipment are now available to do powder coating at home.

mitmaks 08-22-2004 12:25 AM

on frame id go with powdercoat

Dep ME 08-22-2004 05:14 PM

Just a warning, if you decide on POR15 and spray it, you need to be concerned about isocyanate issues. As you are probably aware, isocyanates aren't to be taken lighty. Guard you lungs.

woodz428 08-22-2004 05:58 PM

I've used POR15& Rust-Magnet paints and thought they performed pretty well. They do say that it isn't supposed to be used as a top coat because of the UV affects, but it works great as a primer for a topcoat. I have also powdercoated as well. I would go with the powder coating for the best results and less effort on your part. To use any of the rust treatment type paints requires good prep as well as a lot of time to cover it well. Although the cost will be a little higher (remember that those rust treatment paints aren't cheap) the time saved can be used on lots of other areas.

81blownz28 08-22-2004 07:47 PM

my 81 z28's front clip was sand blasted then epoxy painted
semi gloss black last year. it's still looking good
my friend had his import valve cover powder coated
around the same time as me and it looks like crap.

the sand blaster said i could get the clip painted
any color i wanted and it would hold up to all
fluid's and chemicals

my 81 z28's front clip was sand blasted then epoxy painted
semi gloss black last year. it's still looking good
my friend had his import valve cover powder coated
around the same time as me and it looks like crap.

the sand blaster said i could get the clip painted
any color i wanted and it would hold up to all
fluid's and chemicals


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