por 15 question - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 08:42 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: thunder bay
Posts: 235
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
por 15 question

Painting a couple of bumpers and the door steps from a freinds jeep. Now i sandblasted them and im going to apply por 15 on them then i want to gravel gaurd them and put a topcoat on them. My question is do i need to put primer over the por15 then gravel gaurd and applpy primer again over the gravelgaurd then the topcoat? Or can i put gravel gaurd directly over the por15 then primer and add my topcoat? Thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: CT
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have used POR15 on several occasions and find it a great product to accept most paints/ primers. I would bet that the POR15 would be stronger than the gravel guard as long it is not exposed to UV light (sunlight), which you should then prime and topcoat. When using the POR15, follow the direction for the 3 steps needed (clean, etch, coat). Try a small area to see if the gravel guard "sticks" to the POR15 directly after it dries.

I starting using this about six years ago and I had to park my '62 in the back due to family health issues and pulled it out this past August and found no rust on the frame which I sealed with this product. Great stuff ...others tho will have different opinions.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:09 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: thunder bay
Posts: 235
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks kbawi. With the etching step do you need to rinse it off after applying it just like the marine cleaner you put on in the first step? doesent really tell me on the can if i need to rinse it off or not? Thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:14 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: CT
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have always rinsed it off ...I think I read that somewhere in the instruction years ago. I sometime get impatient and the product did stick to those areas that were not rinsed. Good luck!

Gary
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: CT
Posts: 24
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Leave the Metal Ready on for 15 or 30 minutes and keep it "wet", then rinse it off. Had to look at the directions again ...wow, thought I didn't need them again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:39 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: thunder bay
Posts: 235
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks again kbawi i will follow those directions.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 11:10 PM
cucumber1949's Avatar
T-Bucket, Corvette, Mustang
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Cleveland, OH
Age: 65
Posts: 507
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Apply Marine Clean, rinse, let dry thoroughly. Then apply the etch, rinse, let dry thoroughly before applying POR-15 rust preventive paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2006, 08:50 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,913
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
I am not a big fan of POR 15 however I did use it on the underside of one of my Mustangs a couple of years ago (good results) and in researching the stuff I found that if the parts are sandblasted then the etch is not only not necessary but not recommended! A sandblasted part offers the best possible surface and no other prep is needed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2006, 10:19 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: thunder bay
Posts: 235
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ya there seems to be a lot of different opinions i got locally here too about putting metal prep on a sandblasted surface. I cant see them using metal prep in a industrial application such as a bridge as por 15 claims it is used on applications such as that. Afterall time is money and going through all the steps in a major application such as that would be very time consumming. I'm going to follow the three steps anyway and see how it works out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2006, 11:06 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: tennessee
Posts: 5,913
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
If you will go to POR's web site you will find in the Q@As that metal ready is not always required. As I understand it you should not use Metal Ready on a sandblasted surface for the same reason you would not acid etch a blasted surface prior to priming. With a sandblasted surface the metal is already prepped and offers an excellent surface for adhesion so why would you want to etch? It seems that acid can be trapped in the rough surface and cause harm later so it may be that not only is it unnecessary but could actually cause problems later.

http://www.marine-paint.com/por-15-metal-ready.htm

Last edited by oldred; 10-27-2006 at 11:12 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
383 stroker 73monte Engine 11 05-07-2014 09:08 AM
Question about vehical weight and engine question Thuggishruggish3000 Engine 12 03-24-2011 06:22 AM
question about a previouse question elrod1030 Engine 6 03-10-2010 08:35 AM
Switching to 200R Tranny question Gundarak Transmission - Rearend 4 12-05-2003 09:00 PM
nitrous 69BiRd Engine 2 11-28-2003 11:33 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.