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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2007, 05:02 PM
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Rassonil

Hi OldRed, I agree with you completely. I was just wondering if this stuff called RASSONIL had been used by anyone? I'm always trying to find out about any of these covering type products because I don't believe in covering rust up. I was thinking that Rassonil was a product that bonded to the metal itself, but I've never used any of it and haven't ever heard of anyone locally that has ever heard of it. I think it is sold only through THE AUTOBODYSTORE but I may have the wrong place. I'll try to find that article I read a couple of years ago and post it or where you can find out about Rassonil. It's funny how each of these kinds of coatings claim to be different and work better than the other guys stuff. Then, you hear a few success stories. That's why I'm always asking about results. Haven't heard much about Rust Bullet either. Seems like POR-15 advertises the most, so it's used the most I guess. The elusive magic bullet is still elusive IMHO.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2007, 06:39 PM
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Rassonil

Here's the website for Rassonil. Wondering if anyone has used it and with what results?
http://www.royresearch.com/rassonil/index.htm
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Old 12-25-2007, 10:18 PM
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Lots of good info here...thanks all for the opinions.

Converting areas that need to be welded makes welding impossible? That's good to know!...

The ceiling of my 69' El Camino was COVERED in rust, it would hold condensation from the air to the point that I could see beads of water on the ceiling at all times. So, I scaped, sanded, and converted it twice. Immediately the metal stayed dry...so that's gotta be a good thing. It looks great after epoxy primer and does not hold any moisture anymore.

Oddly enough, the exterior top of the roof has no rust damage at all. It's very damp where I live, I'm thinking that condesation gets trapped inside the car, and cannot escape. I'm gonna need a garage!
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:40 AM
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how many wonder rust killers does this make red ? at least a dozen by my count. i want to see them put insulators in a can.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 07:00 AM
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I'm not to good at body work but what I did with my malibu was cut out the rusty floors and replace em. I figured the floors were cheaper now than rust convertor now and floors later.
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Old 05-24-2008, 07:10 AM
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smart move
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Old 05-24-2008, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy from Rass-O'-Nil
Rass-O'-Nil forms an organo-metallic deposit and hence prevents the metal from coming into contact with metal. Thanks







Shine, at least a dozen out there now but I wonder what became of the others like Eastwood's "Corroless" that was was supposed to be the rust cure to end all rust cures? I love the way these guys throw around all that techno mumbo jumbo to make this stuff look like it was developed by NASA scientists to use on the the space shuttle. There are few places on a car body (I can't think of any that I have found) that have damaging rust that don't involve seams or other overlapping panels and/or places that are inaccessible to spraying/brushing so what happens to those areas even if some of this stuff did work? I have said it before and I still maintain that NO rust converter/killer/hider will somehow magically creep into these areas and do a damn thing for the rust hiding there! If rusting on an accessible part is so bad that it can't be removed by any means then that part is already destroyed and needs to be replaced! My hobby is old Mustangs but these are well known for rusting and I see guys all the time who want to use, or have already used, POR and the like to "repair" rusty sheetmetal because of these wild claims of "easy" rust repair. But covering up rust is no different than filling a large dent with bondo, the part is seriously damaged and no matter how good the filler looks now it is still just as damaged. Likewise if a part is rust damaged it will STILL be just as damaged no matter what it is covered with and this does not even take into account the rust that WILL still be in those seams! If a part is lightly rusted then it is usually fairly easy to remove the rust so why cover it up? But if the rust is so bad it can't be removed then the part is already destroyed just the same as if it were bent beyond repair. An example was a couple of years ago I had a fellow with a 68 Mustang that had the commonly rusted floor completely coated with POR 15 top and bottom, when I asked why he did not sandblast it the reply was "If I had of sandblasted all the rust off there would not have been any floor left"! So now he has a flloor? I think that is kind of like covering a hole in the floor with a rug but it is done all the time and I remember almost the same being said here some time back. The bottom line is if it is rusty it will STILL be rusty no matter what you cover it up with and if you cover the rust you can get to then you are covering only the tip of the iceberg and those seams and hidden areas will get you even if what you cover up manages to stay covered.
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Old 05-24-2008, 01:00 PM
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I really love it when one of these oldies pops up and starts the ball rolling all over again

None of that 'magic crap' works as far as I'm concerned. "Rust never sleeps". If there is any O2 plus any H2O(humidity) - then there is rust on steel. Rusted steel, FeO2 + O2 = red crumbly stuff. If the magic encapsulator has any O2 and H2O beneath it - then it will continue to rust. And since we don't live in a vacuum.........

I know several pretty good amateur body folks that swear by this 'magic crap' !!!!

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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2008, 07:01 AM
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People don't understand that they are better off to leave the rust uncovered. That way they can look and see how bad it has gotten.

Aaron
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2008, 07:06 AM
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snake oil
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Old 05-25-2008, 07:37 AM
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Think about this and see if this makes any sense to you at all, try to remember economics 101.

Walk into any auto parts store and look at all the gas and oil treatments for sale, a billion dollar a year industry.
Ever notice there are none made by Shell, Exxon, or Chevron but yet "90+%" of these are made for companies by the major oil companies and a lot of the items are the same thing under a different label with a dye or aroma additive, or viscosity modifier and may sell for $3 with one company and same thing may sell for $15 with another.
SOOOO why do you not think the oil companies would not have one with their name on it, cut out the middle man and still make 1000% profit on some of this crap?

With that to keep in mind, would you not think some of the biggest paint companies in the world would also make some of this miracle stuff and run the small guy right out?

Could it be the oil companies and the paint companies don't want there name on this stuff no matter what the profit could be? That would be my bet!

A slow call day for me is in the area of 35-60 calls and most days are over a 100, I wish you could all hear me for just one week. Weekly there are calls from shops that the major paint company rep just left and all they said is prep must be wrong and how they get my name I don't know but we go through how it was done from start to finish and I advise I can't speak for your paint company but what you say happened, cannot because everything was done perfect. Then they without fail, they will say, what if the metal was cleaned with Lacquer thinner or I was told by customer to use so and so of a treatment first that he supplied? Bingo, we could have save 30 minutes of me questioning you to death about every little thing to figure out the problem.

I have given the following advice to at least 20 people on here that have called and asked this year alone. "The best money you can spend is take the quart or gallon of stuff you have and throw it away or give it to someone you don't like."
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2008, 07:50 AM
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best thing for rust is to coat it with lacquer paint followed with a thick coat of mayonnaise.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2008, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
best thing for rust is to coat it with lacquer paint followed with a thick coat of mayonnaise.
Now Shine, with testing I would bet the mayo would work better then the lacquer.

However, if you have a rusted panel laying around, take a wire brush and knock off the scale part and take house paint (latex) and brush a coat, let set for 24 hours and brush a second coat do the same for coat three and four. Might shock you at what you will have in 30 days, works good.
Latex is a pretty durable coating and used for architectural coatings a lot of the times.
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:45 AM
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I first got into this argument about rust hiders, oops converters, about three or four years ago and since then I have done some testing on my own. Without going into detail and pointing at any particular product I took what was left of the only "magical cure" I ever bought and coated some lightly rusted test panels along with some identical items coated with epoxy and epoxy plus paint and left them outside as a test. The "magic cure" seemed to work but the funny part is the epoxied panel and the one with epoxy plus paint did just as well! I recently (about 6 months ago) added one with Rustoluem paint and one with Rustoleum primer for rusty metal topped with Rustoleum paint, so far both of these seem to be doing OK also but it really has not been long enough to say much one way or the other. The point is, at least it seems to me, that just about anything you put on it will slow down the rust as long as it blocks Oxygen and water which I think epoxy would do as good or better than any "magic cure" out there. The Rustoleum test came about because of a discussion on a Mustang forum about it's durability for use as a finish paint, ala the $100 paint job non-sense. It is simply amazing how many of those guys at that forum are falling for that $100 Rustoleum BS and if anyone dares to try to point it out for the non-sense it is they get clobbered! That however is a different subject but it does show there are many gullible people out there who will believe just about anything!
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2008, 05:27 PM
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These threads seem to be multiplying. I think a lot of it is people have been watching so many of those cars go thru Barrett-Jackson at big bucks and they thing they can make theirs worth that kind of money, even though they never did that kind of work before. They immediatly look for short-cuts because they know that they are not capable of doing the work properly. I keep seeing more and more of those cars later, when they have new owners, wondering why they have paint flying off. When I get into them I find that they are eaten up with rust and are 1/2 bondo. These are the cars that were "recently restored".

Eventyally there will be a product on the market that you simply roll onto the rusted out car and it makes it look like new. The manufacturer will make millions before people figure out that it is a scam.

Aaron
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