[the dan]

ok so heres my conclusion on the tw0


Por 15
I sand blasted my whole frame on an old chevy pick up about a year ago and por 15'ed the whole thing, taking every cleaning measure they told me to take, at this time we did it on another chevy with a very rusty frame and did it on top of the rust. neither held up to well, and the por 15 comes off the metal in a sheet type of flake, 1 year later there is barely any left on the rusty frame chevy, and rust is coming threw on the bare metal frame
when applying por 15 it goes on thick, and when dry it is almost like a plastic cover over the metal amd imder UV light, it turns different colors

Rustbullet
By far the best rust penitrator/gaurd i have used, and seen, i welded a few patches on the floor of my pickup last february, and applyed the paint, and you can literally watch it penitrate into the rust, it seeps into all of the pits and forms a sandable nice surface, after 5 months of daily driving with sand all over it and a leaking door gasket, the rust buller is still all there and hasnt come off or rust has not formed underneed it. I am very impressed with the job that rust bullet gave me

in conclusion i talked to the por 15 booth at a swap meet i went to, i guess we had to by another $100 of prep solvents and whatnot to give us what they claim is a rust protector, where as you can buy another gallon of rustbullet and be more then happy with the amount of life you saved your body

[454 Rattler]

Great info. Anyone else compare these two products ? You left out a couple of things.
1. Where can I get Rust Bullet ?
2. What is the cost ?
3. Are there any drawbacks in your opinion ?
4. Does it get brushed on or sprayed on ?

THANKS !

454 RATTLER

[Rambo_The_Dog]

POR 15 does not contain UV protectants and cannot be left outside or used as a topcoat which is more than likely why it failed.

[YJ 383]

i have used both and will never use por 15 again for the same reasons.
i used RB after welding so it would not rust till i primed it and i tell you what the factory paint was easer to get off!!!

www.RustBullet.com
thats where i ordered from.

can be brushed or sprayed. only draw back i know is i can buy it locally.

oh about $38.00 a quart if i remember correctly

[stangerman]

I agree that POR-15 is overpriced crap, but I've used RB too and it's not the miracle stuff you make it out to be. You must be leaving out a whole bunch of information here. Stuff like what prepping you did, how many coats of each did you apply? How heavy? RB claims you need not do any prep, but common sense tells you you have to. They just are trying to appeal to the lazy skip any step I can kind of guy. Dude, if a piece of steel is rusted, and you rub your fingers across it and you come up with orange fingertips, what makes anyone think they can paint over that? If that's OK, than should we sprinkle baby powder on a piece of metal and expect that to stick too? I've used a product call KBS Rustseal (similar system to por) with very good results. They have a silver like RB and por, and black, grey, red, green, white too. It costs a little less than both of the others, which allowed me to clean, prep, and paint for much less than por, and about the same as RB (but without the common sense prepping).
I'll let you know how it does, but it's been down about 10 months now on a trailer that sits out all year long and it looks like day one. It too needs a topcoat like the por, but I wouldn't want that RB silver look either.

Just my thoughts.

www.kbs-coatings.com

[YJ 383]

Originally Posted by stangerman

I agree that POR-15 is overpriced crap, but I've used RB too and it's not the miracle stuff you make it out to be. You must be leaving out a whole bunch of information here. Stuff like what prepping you did, how many coats of each did you apply? How heavy? RB claims you need not do any prep, but common sense tells you you have to. They just are trying to appeal to the lazy skip any step I can kind of guy. Dude, if a piece of steel is rusted, and you rub your fingers across it and you come up with orange fingertips, what makes anyone think they can paint over that? If that's OK, than should we sprinkle baby powder on a piece of metal and expect that to stick too? I've used a product call KBS Rustseal (similar system to por) with very good results. They have a silver like RB and por, and black, grey, red, green, white too. It costs a little less than both of the others, which allowed me to clean, prep, and paint for much less than por, and about the same as RB (but without the common sense prepping).
I'll let you know how it does, but it's been down about 10 months now on a trailer that sits out all year long and it looks like day one. It too needs a topcoat like the por, but I wouldn't want that RB silver look either.

Just my thoughts.

www.kbs-coatings.com

appeal to the lazy skip any step I can kind of guy. you dont know me and if you did you wouldnt keep up! now take your first post to something you know/use before. i dont care about your thoughts, everything has prep of some kind.

[SSTuner]

I sprayed front frame rails on a 87 Monte Carlo SS with RB Black Shell and left the rails exposed to the sun as it dried and it faded. Preperation was per directions. Not sure if I did something wrong. Not very happy.

[the dan]

Originally Posted by stangerman

I agree that POR-15 is overpriced crap, but I've used RB too and it's not the miracle stuff you make it out to be. You must be leaving out a whole bunch of information here. Stuff like what prepping you did, how many coats of each did you apply? How heavy? RB claims you need not do any prep, but common sense tells you you have to. They just are trying to appeal to the lazy skip any step I can kind of guy. Dude, if a piece of steel is rusted, and you rub your fingers across it and you come up with orange fingertips, what makes anyone think they can paint over that? If that's OK, than should we sprinkle baby powder on a piece of metal and expect that to stick too? I've used a product call KBS Rustseal (similar system to por) with very good results. They have a silver like RB and por, and black, grey, red, green, white too. It costs a little less than both of the others, which allowed me to clean, prep, and paint for much less than por, and about the same as RB (but without the common sense prepping).
I'll let you know how it does, but it's been down about 10 months now on a trailer that sits out all year long and it looks like day one. It too needs a topcoat like the por, but I wouldn't want that RB silver look either.

Just my thoughts.

www.kbs-coatings.com

I did quick prep like it said on the container, removed flakes and wire brushed the area then cleaned up the dust, a little prep work is obvious though

2 coats of it, when you apply it you will realize the thickness that you will have to use, because you cant use to little or else it doesnt cover the area

and on the can they explain that you can sprey it on with a gun and a little thinner but i havent tried that

[shine]

there is no substitute for removing rust. there is no such thing as rust stop. you can coat it, hide it, whatever but it will continue to live. there are no insulators in that can to stop electrolysis . i've been at this for 35 years and have seen every kind of cure all that has come down the pike. none work for very long. metal exposed to the elements has a better chance than metal coated with some thick cure all. thats why old field cars have only surface rust except where the metal is covered by dirt . cars of the 50's 60's that were undercoated literally feel apart later on because of trapped moisture under it. remove it and be done with it.

[TheCiscoKid]

I have a 38 Chev, pretty decent shape to start with.I took it to a hot rod builders shop.He told me about POR15,I didn't believe it.I wanted any rust removed.I was stripping my rear axle and shop said they'd sand blast it and paint it, yeah just put POR15 on it.It's rusting thru and car has been inside only.I tried a bit of POR on inside floor but when I was sandblasting an area of the floor the POR just blew off in a sheet.Unfortunately all my suspension stuff has been sprayed with POR instead of the epoxy and polyU we agreed on.It chips/peels.BTW brought my car home as workmanship was too slow and poor.
My opinion of POR 15 is PIS 15. What a load of crap,paint over rust and that fixes it?????. Cisco

[techron]

i am working on a frame right now ( sandblasting, welding seams, etc) what do you all suggest for a procedure and products to paint it and suspension parts??? i want gloss or semigloss black. i was looking at the kbs websight listed above and kind of like the kbs blacktop at the bottom of the page. anybody used it?? opinions?? Shine how would you finish a frame???

[shine]

bare metal is best protected by epoxy. i would clean it and use 2 coats of black epoxy . if you want gloss just use a good single stage . i prefer spi for my epoxy. they also have a good single stage black.

[46chevyfleetline]

Exactly what Shine said. I had did my frame with POR15 about 4 years ago. It was left inside. I seen a few spots of rust so i started to dig into the POR.Even where it looked good it was still rusting underneath. I ended up blasting it off and using SPI epoxy and their S.S. Black. Its been inside outside, rain ,winter etc etc. It still looks like the day I painted it. I know of no bodyshop that restores high end cars that use anything but epoxy on their customers cars. And three of them have restored some of the most expensive cars ever auctioned or sold. This should tell you something. Take the time and do it right the first time. You won't have to do it again like me. There is no quick way. Just the right way.

Cheers!!

[oldred]

About three years ago I decided to test POR 15 against epoxy primer and epoxy plus paint. Then a couple of years later at the mention of this test the argument was on about POR so I quickly dropped it and let it go until now and I will not go into detail this time nor will I get into an argument about anything. Here is basically what I found everyone be their own judge-On lightly rusted (surface rust and some tiny speck type pits) sheetmetal test panels laying on my shed roof for three years the POR has held up pretty good and the rust so far has not resurfaced and seems to be in check with no further rusting in areas where the POR was removed to check the surface. While this may seem like good testimonial for the POR the fact is that the other panels (epoxy and epoxy plus paint) have held up just as well and there was no further rusting on them either. My point is that, at least in the testing I did, the epoxy seems to work as good as POR and is a lot less hassle but none of these panels had heavy rusting which IMO should never be covered with anything anyway. My thinking is that POR works by sealing the rust from Oxygen and moisture thus depriving it from a necessary link in the chain and apparently epoxy does the same. I will not use POR on anything anymore as I was not impressed at all with it nor do I really have any need since I am of the opinion that rust needs to be removed instead of covered up and that's the way I do it now.

As an added note this has nothing to do with Rust Bullet and I have no idea how well, if at all, it works.

[Ranchero_65]

I'll never use por15 but I have had good success with Zero Rust tho and you can get it in different colors.

Take Care
Earl
www.ranchero65.com