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Old 01-02-2003, 02:59 PM
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Question possible 350 block purchase - comments please

I found a 350 SBC for sale and I am considering purchasing it. It is a 350 2-bolt that came out of a 69-72 Chevelle.

Here is what I have determined so far.

block
CASTING#...SIZE...YEAR...MAIN CAP BOLTS....NOTES
3932388....350.....69....2 or 4

heads
CASTING#...YEAR....SIZE.........NOTES
3932441....69-70...350..........76cc chambers

crank - #2363 - I can't decode this casting number. It appears these are the numbers from the main caps instead of the crank itself.

The seller tells me..
a) one of the main cap bolts came off and went through the pan. He has sent me pictures of the main caps and crank - no large damage is apparant. It also appears one of the main caps is completely missing. I am seeking clarification if that was removed or if it came off as well.
b) the engine was running he bought the Chevelle. He ran it long enough to get it off the trailer and into the garage and he said there was a slight knock.

Here are a couple pictures of the engine.

<a href="http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL76/707995/1249068/17833740.jpg" target="_blank">http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL76/707995/1249068/17833740.jpg</a>

<a href="http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL76/707995/1249068/17833755.jpg" target="_blank">http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL76/707995/1249068/17833755.jpg</a>

My goal is to build a 350 for my daily driver 55 chevy - probably 275-300hp would be fine. I currently have a 305 and that is of unknown mileage or shape. The tranny is a 700R4 with a newly rebuilt GM 12-bolt posi with 3.73 gears.

I haven't seen the engine personally yet. If/when I do - what should I look for at this point? What could I do or look for to determine if the mounting surface/area for those caps have not been damaged beyond repair?

I am trying to determine if $200 for this engine is a good deal or should I just look for another deal.

--Jeff

[ January 02, 2003: Message edited by: idrva55 ]</p>

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Old 01-02-2003, 05:05 PM
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hmm the guy pulled the threads for your oil filter... happened to me too.. oh well you can just grab out out of another sbc


anyways... see if the guy will let you pull a con rod cap off... look for scoring on the crank journals... scoring on the cylinder walls... check the wear (would really help if you had a micrometer) Look for discoloring due to heat...

around here 200 bucks canadian is a bit high but still normal 200 bucks american could get you something better... so you choose
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Old 01-02-2003, 05:32 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by idrva55:
<strong>

The seller tells me..
a) It also appears one of the main caps is completely missing. I am seeking clarification if that was removed or if it came off as well.
I am trying to determine if $200 for this engine is a good deal or should I just look for another deal.

--Jeff

[ January 02, 2003: Message edited by: idrva55 ]</strong><hr></blockquote>



PASS...... <img src="graemlins/sweat.gif" border="0" alt="[sweat]" /> <img src="graemlins/sweat.gif" border="0" alt="[sweat]" />

You will need to align bore the block to use it with 1 cap completely missing. It is NOT all that good a deal with a matching set correct set of caps.
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Old 01-02-2003, 05:50 PM
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#2rod looks discolored.PASS
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Old 01-02-2003, 05:57 PM
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ALL MOST JUNK !!
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:40 PM
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Junk. There are plenty of 350 SBC cores available, that's all it is, even with the nice shiny paint.
#5 & #6 rods look fishy too. My question would be how would a main bolt go through the pan without causing some damage to the rotating assembly too?
By the time you line bore the mains (with new caps and bolts, which aren't cheap) Re-size the rods, turn the crank, new rod bolts just as a start. Then figure those 76cc heads won't breathe well, or make much compression without new pistons, so add the rings, bearings, oil pump and screen, yadda,yadda,yadda. For $200 you should at least get all of the parts.
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:54 PM
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send it to the junk yard if the main went through the pan then the crank had to have hit it now the motor is unbalanced you can find something else.
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:55 PM
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Just to clarify - the $200 is for all the parts not just the block - basically everything that you see in the one pic.

Based on the comments here and comments I received on Chevy Talk I am going to pass. Thanks everyone for the advise. I am not in a hurry so I can take some time to get a good block as a starting point.

I have checked with a local machine shop here in Orlando - they supposedly a well respected shop here in the Orlando metro area. They said to check with them after the holidays and they might have a 2-bolt they could sell me that has already been tanked and fluxed and known to be good. I will see how far that gets me.

Some other options I am considering for sourcing a 350 block:
1. Find a local junker car/truck/van that is still running with a running 350.

2. Buy a used block from a local junk yard. That appears to be like playing roulette. You buy a block for $100 or $150 and then have it tanked and fluxed ($100) only to find out it is cracked. The one yard I checked with said he would give me a new block if that happened but I am still out the $100 with the engine shop.

3. There are some local swap meets coming up. Based on what I have seen so far at other swap meets this is roulette as well.

I don't have $3k to drop into a new motor all at once and I don't have to - my 305 is running fine at the moment. A buddy and I have this life goal of building a motor from scratch. We have some books that others here and on CT have recommended.

Anyway, I am patient (most of the times) and will keep looking.

--Jeff
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:57 PM
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JUNK JUNK JUNK.
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Old 01-02-2003, 07:44 PM
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Hold on one sec, if you gentleman will look hard at the crank, it appears to be forged, hard to tell, but the parting line looks wide, may want to see if you can just get the crank from him if it`s any good, forged cranks are hard to come by.
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Old 01-02-2003, 07:50 PM
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A lot of the time......you can buy blocks from the machine shop for a fraction of the bill $$$. You will not get a rare DZ block or something like that, but I have gotten 010 4 bolt Chevrolet block for $250. Vatted, bored .030 w/head plates, cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. The works.


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Old 01-03-2003, 05:07 AM
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idrva55, down in my part of florida, (SW coast) a running smallblock vehicle can be purchased for 200-400. (I just bought a running but tired 454 for $400) It may be a bit higher in Orlando. Try Leesburg, there are a bunch of rodders there and a lot of good deals on parts. There is a great junkyard on 441 heading North toward Ocala, I can't remember the name, but they have got acres and acres of stuff.
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Old 01-03-2003, 05:39 AM
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I am going to go against the grain here. Yes, it will have to be line bored, but if everything else is like new and the crank is not hurt I would try to pick it up. Of course I never pay what they are asking. I bet you could get it for $150. If the heads and everything were recently rebuilt, you might could have a good running engine for under $500. You will have to check it all over very well though. I would only be interested if everything is like new. But, be very careful and if you dont know what to look for find someone who does.

Chris
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Old 01-03-2003, 08:16 AM
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Look under the timing chain cover, in that year block you may see 010, and a 020 under there, that means that the block was made with good nickle content which will help the engine cool and wear better, which makes that block much more valuable, It probably has smog heads, so i would redo the bottom end but keep the block if it is a 010, 020
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Old 12-20-2005, 01:49 AM
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don't do it

I don't know much, but everyone else is right. There are a whole lot more motors out there that are in twice as good of shape. I know where a 350 (might be 4 bolt) is at and she wants 200 for the whole truck. it needs an intake and carb, but thats it. Let me know and I will check into it.
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