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Old 02-18-2013, 04:46 PM
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Possible 383 build, need a little Insight /Advice

I've been doing my research over the last month or so now, specs, and what not, and been waiting to post this on here. I've seen all the other .383 Threads, and none of them seem to know exactly what they want, or are on some sort of ridiculous budget/using cheaper options. However, I know what I want, and I won't settle for less

I Picked up a 350 motor, already been machined and bored .030 over from a local machine shop, still bagged and tagged, along with a 350r and 400r(gonna end up selling both trans eventually) for a HELLLL of a deal from a friend who picked up all this stuff in a recent trade for a vehicle. Really, he just had no idea wtf he had, doesn't have the skills or knowledge to do anything with any of it, and offered me all of the above for 200$, so needless to say, I jumped all over it.

I'm shooting for right around 500hp and anything over 425tq I'll be happy with, but I'd realllyyyy like to break the 500 plane, Hp wise. I want a Snappy Throttle with a good Decel. I also am looking for 6500rpm revs., Nothing Less.

I work at a Local Performance shop part time, and I've been with them since long before they even became a business. We are Dealers for, and get RIDICULOUS deals on all the products and parts I plan on using for this build. Everything except the Holley Carb.

I WILL NOT BE ORDERING FROM ANY OF THE WEBSITE LINKS I HAVE LISTED. THEY'RE ALL LISTED JUST AS A REFERENCE FOR THOSE OF YOU INTERESTED/WHO CARE TO LOOK AT THE SPECS. Everthing ordered will be Direct from the Products Companies themselves.

Rotating Assembly- Scat # 942-1-91100BIE
Scat 1-91100BIE Scat Series 9000 Cast Crank Street Performance Rotating Assemblies

Cylinder Heads- AFR #1040- Eliminator Street, L98 Angle Plug W/ Heat Riser
-AFR Hydra Rev Kit #9150
-Valve Covers AFR # 6705- Tall PC’d Black

Air Flow Research
Air Flow Research
Air Flow Research

Intake- Edelbrock #350-2925- Super Victor
-Carb Spacer: Brodix # 158-HVSS4150-1AL

Edelbrock 2925 Edelbrock Victor Series Intake Manifolds for Small Block Chevy
Brodix HVSS4150-1AL Brodix Carburetor Adapters & Spacers

Carb- Holley # 510-0-82751- Street HP carb/750cfm.
Holley 0-82751 Holley 4150 Street HP Carburetors

Ignition- MSD Digital 6AL Ignition Controller #6425
-GM HEI Billet Distributor # 8365
-HEI Coil # 8225
-DYNAForce Starter # 5095

Digital 6AL Ignition Control - 6425
MSD Ignition 8225 MSD Blaster Replacement Coils
DynaForce Starter, Chevy/GM Small and Big Block V8 - 5095

Cam- Comp Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit # K12-772-8 <3k-7k range
Comp Cams K12-772-8 Comp Cams 'Xtreme Energy' Mechanical Roller Camshafts

Also, The motor will get getting ARP EVERYTHINGGGGG, so no need to worry there.

Only thing I’m really unsure of is the Cam. Honestly, Cam specs. confuse the **** out of me, I don't even know if this cam'll work.

I Want an Aggressive cam, Car’s only going to be driven every weekend/ sometimes week day. I'm really not concerned with It being a rough or smooth idle, I'm shooting for strictly performance. Would I end up being better off asking AFR when I order the Heads what they're opinion on the best Cam for their heads are?

As far as the Hydra Rev Kit goes, I'm honestly just getting it for added surety of not having issues with Valve Float. This car's gonna end up getting Ran hard every weekend, and with the RPM Range I'm shooting For, I'd rather be "safe".

As far as Wiring and Electrical goes, Any Tips or Tricks? I'm gonna end up getting our wiring guy at the shop to do a custom "harness" for me, due to the car this motor and trans is going in.

I'm Really Trying to keep with companies I have posted becuase of the Deals we can get through them. We're Dealers for about 40/50 other companies as well, so if you have another Company in mind, post it and I'll reference it and check it out.

Also, Oil pumps, I see nothing but 50/50 on going with an HV pump. though, I'm thinking about going with it anyway, due to this car going to be ran so much on the weekends. Due to Possible drift events, Should I look Into Baffles as well?

What Size Radiator and Companies should I look into or that I WILLL end up needing to keep this thing Cool?

The Head and Rotating Assembly should have me just under 10:1. After Reading everything, I'll probably end up using 100 octane most of the time, (due to planned running so often), but I want to be able to still use 93 if I want to, So I don't want to bring the Compression any further than it is.

This car WILLL be running a Manual Trans. The car's not going to be only a "drag" car, but drift also, so I want Gear Selection when I want it. So, with that being said, what are some of the Best Manual's for the Power range I'm aiming for?

Due to the Car I'm putting this in, I know I'm going to run into Clearence issues with MOST headers that I can just Order, So we're more than likely just going to end up Custom making the Headers here at the shop. Exhaust wise It Will end up being whatever the Header tubing thickness is at the Flange, going to a Y-pipe to a Single 3" to Dual 4” tips


The Car's probably not even gonna be brought out too often even when the motor is done, I want suspension, Interior, body, paint, wheels, etc. to be 100% what I want it to be before I start bringing it everywhere and people see it.

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Old 02-18-2013, 07:34 PM
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next size bigger cam/heads and carb. smaller intake,vic jr,headers need 1 3/4 primaries,maybe stepped
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
next size bigger cam/heads and carb. smaller intake,vic jr,headers need 1 3/4 primaries,maybe stepped
I had already been Looking into the 210cc Heads, Victor Jr Intake, and an 800cfm Holly Carb, so I'm fine with having to go bigger. Now, as far as cam goes, Like I said, I Understand what all the numbers "mean", lobe seperation, duration, lift, etc., but not what's actually GOOD or 'perfect' for what I'm trying to run.

It's not gonna cost me much, (if anything), more to go up to the next size for any part needed as long as I stick with the companies I get deals from. I have no intention of throwing this thing together and hoping for the best, I'd rather buy and have everything I need and KNOW will work and do it right the first time, than throw it on the dyno after slapping it together and being completely dissapointed, lol.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:52 PM
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For what you are doing with it I would use a Forged Rotating assy. nothing less Scat is fine as long as you check everything
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:00 PM
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Go the Howards forged crank.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:38 PM
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re cams: there are many many cams that will get the job done.
Myself,I tend to use bigger cams with a lower icl for smaller engines and as the engines get bigger I go to a higher ICL. The RPM range that I want to use the engine in,I choose by engine size,car and use. If you were running a big displacement engine and wanted high RPM and big top end power,then use a wider LDA and a higher ICL.
Of course lift/heads/bore/stroke/CR,duration all influence the final figures too,so there is a lot of math/experience or luck involved
You need to know exactly the purpose to pick the cam exactly correct. a little smaller is a better way to error
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by dougj169 View Post
For what you are doing with it I would use a Forged Rotating assy. nothing less Scat is fine as long as you check everything
I was also looking at the Forged Rotating Assembly from Scat, the only Reason I had steered away from it was because it jumps the compression up to 12:1-13:1.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:57 AM
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Cr

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I was also looking at the Forged Rotating Assembly from Scat, the only Reason I had steered away from it was because it jumps the compression up to 12:1-13:1.
pistons can be ordered in any configuration,especially for a 383.
If you get super deals on parts,,,,look at Callies cranks,,,crower rods,wiseco pistons or other premium parts.
why not see about shp/little m blocks
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
pistons can be ordered in any configuration,especially for a 383.
If you get super deals on parts,,,,look at Callies cranks,,,crower rods,wiseco pistons or other premium parts.
why not see about shp/little m blocks
After just looking at our list of Companies, Callies, crower, and Wiseco are all on the list, I'll look into them a little later on today after we close for the day.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:54 AM
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"I'm shooting for right around 500hp and anything over 425tq I'll be happy with, but I'd realllyyyy like to break the 500 plane"

Flywheel or rear wheel HP?

"I Picked up a 350 motor, already been machined and bored .030"

Is the block clearanced for the stroker Build depending on the procedure and parts used, or just a stock Block over bored? And do you have the knowledge to clearance it yourself during the build if its needed! Or will someone else help you?


I have a question and don't want to offend you!!!! I take it your on here because you have no confidence in the Performance shop you work in or you don't like their advice???

My curiosity is making me ask that !!!!

A lot of us on here work in and or own Performance shops and our workers come to us for advice, others on here grew up in racing with dirty engine oil and gas for blood, and you are coming to us nowIs your boss's business mainly a parts changer and parts dealer? Or do they do ground up blue print builds on race engines that your asking about?

I hope my curiosity doesn't kill the neighbor lady's cat LOL


Jester
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
"I'm shooting for right around 500hp and anything over 425tq I'll be happy with, but I'd realllyyyy like to break the 500 plane"

Flywheel or rear wheel HP?

"I Picked up a 350 motor, already been machined and bored .030"

Is the block clearanced for the stroker Build depending on the procedure and parts used, or just a stock Block over bored? And do you have the knowledge to clearance it yourself during the build if its needed! Or will someone else help you?


I have a question and don't want to offend you!!!! I take it your on here because you have no confidence in the Performance shop you work in or you don't like their advice???

My curiosity is making me ask that !!!!

A lot of us on here work in and or own Performance shops and our workers come to us for advice, others on here grew up in racing with dirty engine oil and gas for blood, and you are coming to us nowIs your boss's business mainly a parts changer and parts dealer? Or do they do ground up blue print builds on race engines that your asking about?

I hope my curiosity doesn't kill the neighbor lady's cat LOL


Jester
I have TONS of Confidence in the shop I work for, and No, we are not just a "parts changer/parts dealer" shop, we do Full Builds as well, only thing is, we are a 98% IMPORT shop. Most import engines can make 6/700hp at the wheel with simple machine work, forged internals, and a tune. Alot of the needed work and procedures for a build like I'm trying to do, is lost amongst them. That's why I came here.

As far as if it's Clearenced for what I want, I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm going to call the machine shop this month with the serial number on the tag and see what all exactlyy they did. But, yes, I will be getting help during this build, from a few Local v-8 friends, being as it's my first FULL v-8 build.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:34 PM
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continuing on the lines of what Painted posted.If you plan to race against these imports,have you considered stealing some of their technology? toss a couple turbos on your V-8 and your tune will net over 800 HP and torque and smiles per mile.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:38 PM
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You should be able to buy your rotating assembly in what ever flavor you need.

I would go with everything from the same company and have them balance the entire assembly before its shipped. Helps in the long run. But with your rpm level you may need to have the balance checked to make sure they got it close enough for your needs.

210 cc heads at least if you want 500hp. 195 might work but not sure if they wil hit the 500 mark easily. 220cc or larger may not be bad either.

I like this cam for bigger power builds. Its a solid roller but that is what you will need to run past 6500.

12-705-8 - Magnum
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all4sr's View Post
I have TONS of Confidence in the shop I work for, and No, we are not just a "parts changer/parts dealer" shop, we do Full Builds as well, only thing is, we are a 98% IMPORT shop. Most import engines can make 6/700hp at the wheel with simple machine work, forged internals, and a tune. Alot of the needed work and procedures for a build like I'm trying to do, is lost amongst them. That's why I came here.

As far as if it's Clearenced for what I want, I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm going to call the machine shop this month with the serial number on the tag and see what all exactlyy they did. But, yes, I will be getting help during this build, from a few Local v-8 friends, being as it's my first FULL v-8 build.
The stroked small blocks depending on kit or your crank and rod choices interferences are encountered Like rods contacting cam lobes ETC, Plan your build very carefully! LOL Did you contemplate building the 350 for high RPM or do you need the extra torque of the 383 for your application?

Jester
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all4sr's View Post
I have TONS of Confidence in the shop I work for, and No, we are not just a "parts changer/parts dealer" shop, we do Full Builds as well, only thing is, we are a 98% IMPORT shop. Most import engines can make 6/700hp at the wheel with simple machine work, forged internals, and a tune. Alot of the needed work and procedures for a build like I'm trying to do, is lost amongst them. That's why I came here.

As far as if it's Clearenced for what I want, I'm not sure if it is or not, I'm going to call the machine shop this month with the serial number on the tag and see what all exactlyy they did. But, yes, I will be getting help during this build, from a few Local v-8 friends, being as it's my first FULL v-8 build.

They Will?? no they take all the same things to make big power. 700hp from an import engine is amazing if its an NA 4 banger build. That will be a fully let out 10K rpm or better engine. Like 20K worth of goodies.

Most imports cant make more than 300 hp without boost. Do all the same things to the 383 and you will be over 1000hp. Only real difference is the heads for chevy are worse stock but you can buy good ones.
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