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Old 02-06-2009, 01:14 PM
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powder coating

I am thinking of having some powder coating done on a couple of bumpers...and have a couple of questioins. The bumpers I would be doing I have narrowed and welded the studs to the bumper so there are some grinding spots..scratches, maybe a small low spot or two around where I have done the work. Obviously a person could not put filler on these areas.. so is the powder coat think enough to fill these small areas? how about chrome does replating fill in scratches and low spots? How much cheaper is powder coating compaired to chrome?

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Old 02-06-2009, 01:32 PM
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Use Metal 2 Metal-

Edit: My best friend runs a Powdercoating/ Industrial Painting business, and they regulalry use Metal2Metal (Evercoat) to fill scratches and imperfections-


Last edited by 35WINDOW; 02-06-2009 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:33 PM
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Powder coating will fill some scratches, but if they are bad enough that they would normally require filler I doubt the powder coating will fill those. You could let the firm that is doing it take a look at it and they could tell you.

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Old 02-06-2009, 03:49 PM
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The problem with powder coat is that the process uses heat to cure the coating. I do not know about the metal to metal product but I do know from experience that regular body filler will not hold up during the heating process. Get you a good mill bastard (fine tooth flat metal draw file) and file out all of the low spots and scratches. Then use 80 grit paper on a Dual Action sander with the sander locked in single action or spin mode. Work it over with 80 grit until all of the scratches are gone. Then do the same with 180, 280 and then 320. In between all of the steps color the entire area each time with a permanent black magic marker. This will tell you were you have and have not filed and sanded. That should take care of all of your problems and the final 320 grit should be enough. By all means be sure to talk all of this over with the person that is going to do the powder coat. Check this post for more info and be sure to visit the links that is referenced there. (Very good reading written by the masters of metal working) http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ham...ique-95427.html

Last edited by Chris Kemp; 02-06-2009 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 02-07-2009, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Kemp
...I do not know about the metal to metal product but I do know from experience that regular body filler will not hold up during the heating process.
I haven't used Metal2Metal personally yet but I believe the mfr recommends it for use in powdercoating situations and that there is a pretty good body of evidence that it holds up fine to the heat process.

The only down side of Chris's method of straight grinding and sanding of the metal is the possibility of creating a low spot, in which cast a filler of some sort is called for. That's where the M2M might come in handy.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:52 PM
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Everyone here is pointing out how to get the bumpers ready for powder and they are all correct in the advice. I just wanted to add that powder will be much less expensive than chrome..........example....I checked with a chrome shop that does excellent work.......2 pieces about 15 inches long and 2 inches wide were $410 to get re-chromed..........I am getting these pieces powder coated...way too much $$$ for chrome. Your bumpers would cost more than the car.
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:16 PM
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I'm in the same boat...have some bumpers that I want to get powdercoated but they need filler work. The Evercoat Metal2Metal filler is only safe up to 260 deg. F, peak metal temperature. I'm not sure if that's enough, but it doesn't sound very hot. I had always assumed powdercoated temps were higher than that, but really have no idea what they really are. The specs are here:

I talked to a powdercoater here locally and he said there was only one filler type product he knew of that was safe to use...can't remember what it was though. I think it was something called "Lab Metal." A quick search turns up this:
There's a high-temp Lab Metal, but they're one part products, so not sure if that's a really bad thing or not? The high-temp product must be heat cured.

Notes from the regular Lab Metal instructions...

"Special instructions for powder coaters

Lab-metal and Hi-Temp Lab-metal repairs may be powder coated without outgassing or ‘popping out’. Use regular Lab-metal for temperatures to 350ºF (or up to 425ºF for one-time exposures of less than 20 minutes). Use Hi-Temp Lab-metal for baking temperatures higher than 425ºF (for more than 20 minutes), and for parts requiring multiple high-temperature oven passes. (See Hi-Temp Lab-metal instructions.)"
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