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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2004, 03:56 PM
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Anyone that has done any powdercoating knows what a little bit of oil or grease can do to a powdercoat surface or the oven that they are using, no matter how big or small that it is. I did a set of valve covers once that I thought was entirely free from an oil residue. WRONG! Even though I had washed and scrubbed with solevent, soap and water, blew off with air manny times, and then did it again, the oil appeared from within the metal and worked its way through the powder coat. The fumes burnt your nose and the smoke haze hurt your eyes when I opened the oven door.

Anyone who thinks that you can powder coat like you spray paint, is in for a rude awakening. Your surface has to be almost hospital clean if you want to get the adhearance of the product to your surface. That's why it works so well.

One of the other reasons why we will never see powder coating done on the factory level or home hobby level, for that matter is color choice!

Just my 2 cents.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2004, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by alittle1
Anyone that has done any powdercoating knows what a little bit of oil or grease can do to a powdercoat surface or the oven that they are using, no matter how big or small that it is. I did a set of valve covers once that I thought was entirely free from an oil residue. WRONG! Even though I had washed and scrubbed with solevent, soap and water, blew off with air manny times, and then did it again, the oil appeared from within the metal and worked its way through the powder coat. The fumes burnt your nose and the smoke haze hurt your eyes when I opened the oven door.

Anyone who thinks that you can powder coat like you spray paint, is in for a rude awakening. Your surface has to be almost hospital clean if you want to get the adhearance of the product to your surface. That's why it works so well.

One of the other reasons why we will never see powder coating done on the factory level or home hobby level, for that matter is color choice!

Just my 2 cents.
Good point. My guy pre-bakes parts such as engine blocks and tranny cases so all contaminates are gone before coating them.
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Old 08-09-2004, 06:56 PM
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Powdercoating

I have a question about the seam sealer. I have been looking for a self-leveling seam sealer that can be used under powder-coated parts. I am using silicon bronze (TIG) and I would like to have something that is faster to apply and not as brittle. I saw Duramix talked about here and thought I had found what I needed, but at last I am not sure. First I see that there are more than one Duramix formulation. Which formulation is used at Freightliner? Second I called 3M and I was told that they did not have any seam sealer that could be used under powder coat. I have tried JB Weld and it stands the heat fairly well as long as it doesnít get too hot, but it is a mess to apply. I welcome any and all advice.
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Old 08-09-2004, 07:41 PM
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There were using #4226, I tested it to around 450 degrees for 15 minutes for them back about 6-8 years ago.
It would work over the powder coat But I don't think you could powder coat over it.
I would send an email to PowderBill and he would know.
Not sure, powder bill is on here much.
Also a footnote, none of the other numbers held up to that heat.
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Old 08-10-2004, 02:12 PM
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Dear Barry,
Thanks for the fast response. I am disappointed to find out that the seam sealer canít be used under the powder coat. Facts are facts and that is life. Just out of interest, if the sealer is used after the power coat is done, why was it necessary for it to be tested at the temperature used to flow the powder? What kind of an application was it that allowed the sealer to be on top of the finish? Maybe I haven't looked at all the alternitives.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2004, 02:26 PM
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Eddie,
I'm not sure if you can powder coat over it or not.
Best i can remember at the time they were seam-sealing the bodies than epoxy than paint and baking around 400 degrees for a few minutes but were having problems with the seam sealers blowing up.
An employee was directly involved and all I did was the testing.
I want to say it withstood 500 degrees but don't really remember its been so long but do know it was well into 400 degrees and still stable.
The one thing I would caution you on now is two years ago 3M bought Duramix and I don't know if they changed the formula or not as this is common practice by the buying company to add to bottom line.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2004, 05:48 PM
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There are several separate issues to consider if you wish to powder coat over the sealer in question.

1) Will the powder adhere to the sealer? I don't know the answer to this one for sure, but I think it's likely that the powder would adhere satisfactorily. Probably would work ok, but you'd just have to do a quick test to find our for sure.

2) Will the powder build film electrostatically over the sealer? If the sealer is electrically non-conductive and is appled heavier than a few mils, the powder may not electrostatically atttract to the sealer...but not to worry, you can overcome this issue simply by preheating the part. It won't have to be sprayed hot enough to cure the powder, just hot enough to get it to build film, probably between 175 and 200 F should be enough. Then bake normally to complete flow out and cure.

3) Will the sealer out-gas at the powder cure temperature? Probably not, especially if the formulation is the same as tested by BarryK previously.

Hope this helps!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2004, 06:00 PM
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The sealer is conductive. (Carbon)
Seems to me after four hours 100% cured and also 97-98% solids.
This hopefully will help.
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